How do I tape for crack climbing? [back to top] [FAQ contents]

From: Michael Andres McMurray

The technique and associated diagram that comes with Metolius climbing tape works great and is easy.

From: Nate Beckwith

The original John Long How to Rock Climb book is the only good source I have seen. The key is to keep the tape off your palm. Also want to create a glove that can be cut off and re-used, because you use a ton of tape to make the thing.

From: Charles Tanzen

You will need one roll of 1&1/2" tape, a lighter, a sewing machine, a knife, and about an hour and a half to make a set of gloves that will last a long, long time.

Start by using the lighter to burn the hair of your hand (not needed, but if you have fuzzy hands or a low pain tolerance to pulled hairs it's a good idea. you can also shave them=) and about two inches up your wrist.

Now the fun begins. Take the roll of tape and make a band around your wrist while flexing your wrist forward (to make your wrist a bit wider, helpful later on). Two complete loops should do it. Cut the tape.

Now, make five 4-5 inch long strips. Make a fist with the taped hand and lay down the strips across the back of your hand starting at the base of your knuckles and heading down over the wrist tape. Start on the pinky side of your hand and work towards your thumb. Each strip should overlap about 1/2 tape width. Make sure the tape covers the meta carpal bones (hand/palm) of your pinky and thumb with about 1/4-1/2" overlap. Phase one done.

Now make five 8-10 inch strips. Cut/rip these in half, length-wise so you now have 10X 8-10" strips. Flex all fingers on taped hand to form a 45 degree angle from the plane of your hand. Your thumb should be spread out about 60 degrees from your hand. Start one strip at the wrist and wrap up around a finger and back onto the back of your hand or, better, wrist (so the tape should make a loop around the front of the base of a finger). Repeat four more times so all fingers are now looped. Take the time to make the loops neat and press the tape firmly to the other tape it crosses. Now extend your fingers and pull the loops from the front of them and bunch it in half or so as neatly as possible (rolling it is just as acceptable and usually easier too) . Lay down the remaining five strips over the previous five and repeat the folding but this time try and wrap it around the previous loop. Phase two done.

Almost half way there already, yahoo! Now pull two or three more four-five inch strips and lay down over the back of the finger loop tape on the back of the hand. Now the fun part. Carefully, very carfully cut the wrist loop in the front (palm side) center. This is best done with tape shears but a knife will work if it's single edged. Lay the knife so the edge faces away from your arm and carefully work it under the tape and cut very slowly (pull the tape around the front of your wrist up as much as possible first). Carefully pull the tape loop (now cut) away from your wrist and the rest of the "glove" away from your hand, and remove entirely (work slowly as some tape may wish to seperate from the rest or your skin may want to do the same. Phase three done.

Now make 6 half-width strips about 10 inches long. starting at the wrist again run each one up the back of the glove (none sticky side) and though the finger loops (where your fingers were just minutes ago) and down the front of the glove (sticky side) back to wrist loop if possible. Use the remaining strip to go between the thumb loop and the first finger loop. Turn glove so sticky side is facing up. At this point, try and end all tape pieces on the underside (sticky side) of the glove. Pull off 4 more full width pieces of tape about 10 inches long. Starting from the edge nearest the thumb side, apply a strip starting at the top of the hand and run along the bottom of the finger loops around the whole glove (both sides) and over lap another inch or so. Apply the other three pieces of tape w/ about a half-width overlap working horizontally across the glove. Carefully circumvent the thumb loop going either around it or through the loop. Phase four done.

Pull the glove on and hold the wrist piece in place, flex a few times and see how it feels. Starting on the back of the wrist loop apply tape and wrap around the wrist (while hand is slightly flexed forward).You may need someone to help you either hold the glove in place or do the taping but it can be done solo with your chin. You'll probably notice a hole in the wrist loop that no longer connects as the tape sat when you first started. No worries, just tape around the wrist two full times over what used to be the wrist loop. Once again, carefullycut this now bigger loop and remove the glove from your hand. Apply a piece of tape to the underside of the whole wrist loop (sticky side) and voila, your done. Phase five complete.

Repeat with the other hand. Yahoo!

To make the gloves nearly indestructible I take and run a sewing machine around the border of the hand and back of the wrist (kinda pentagon shaped) and then an X across the glove (within the pentagon stitches) to trap all the finger loops in place. Optional phase six complete. Gloves for a long, long time.

Now, the only thing you ever have to tape is to run a piece of tape around the wrist. Make sure it covers the cut area twice and ends on the back of the wrist so it doesn't come undone. When you're done, carefully unwrap the tape from the wrist, take glove off and rewrap tape around the wrist. Each wrist tape should last 4-5 outtings and all you have to do is remove the old tape and reapply the wrist piece if the tape looses it's tackiness or becomes damaged.

You can apply the gloves in 2 minutes and don't need to worry about them falling apart. Hang them on your biner with your nut tool so you always hev them and keep a half roll of tape with you. With these gloves your tape consumption will go down to under a roll every three years.

Good luck one and all=) BTW, the one downside is that these are a little thick to begin with but they will become thinner as glue dries and the material gets broken in. You can also thin them a little with a hammer and a flat surface, but I've only found one route in the 200+ I've used them on where the extra 1/100th of an inch really mattered.

From: Phil Box

Alternatively for a really simple tape glove that will sadly only last for 4 or 5 trips to the crag but they are much thinner and you can keep the hair on the back of your hands or in Karls case on the front of your hands as well.

First wrap hand in toilet paper ( this isolates the hair and adheres to glue on tape for ease of subsequent removal of tape glove).

Wrap wrist loosely as already suggested by Tarzen with 1.5 inch tape. Then run strips of full width tape from wrist strap down towards fingers around each finger in turn then back up to finish on the wrist strap. Do another wrap around the wrist and then around the base of the thumb, continue the wrap around the wrist and proceed between the thumb and first finger and finish off back around the wrist. All the while this is proceeding one should be flexing the hand , wrist and fingers to ensure that mobility is not impared by wrapping too tightly. Caution should be exercised so that the palm of the hand should not be occluded by tape.

Repeat for other hand.

It can be a bit of a chore keeping the toilet paper in place whilst taping. but at least now I don`t suffer the excruciating pain of the tearing of millions of hairs off the back of my hand.

For removal of tape glove cut with scissors or sharp knife away from skin.

For refitting of tape glove it is unnecessary to reapply toilet paper as the glue has been rendered ineffective. Simply fit glove onto hand then overwrap wrist maybe twice round.

A comment I would like to the hardmen that feel the need to not tape the back of their hands, some of us haven`t got a lot of padding between the skin and bone on the back of our hands and my hands have got a big knobby bit of bone that gets a hole worn through the skin, with a tape glove I find this knob of bone like a bit of passive pro so I can really yard up on it, without a glove I suffer agony.

From: Tarzen

Conventional gloves don't work. Much like tennis shoes don't egde very well. Simply, too loose fitting. But the do make "hand jammies" and "spider mits" which are a piece of shoe rubber (C4 or stealth or whatever) with finger loops and a wrist bracelet. Somepeople love these since they're even thicker than tape gloves (not much sensation) and easy to use, but a few people I've talked to complained about bad fit or them sliding and being too thick. What it all comes down to is personal choice, style, and location. Use what works for you=)

From: evdotek

Taping is the way to go. Gloves add thickness, no matter how tight will slip, and screw up sensitivity on your grip, great for aiding, no place on free climbs. I'll try and describe the meathod I use, get a roll of athletic cloth tape, run a loop over your index and middle finger, then run the tape between index in thumb over back of hand to wrist, around front of wrist up to back of pinky, then finish the loop over your knuckles. The tape should make an X on the back of your hands, and cover the wrist and knuckles. If you're really thrashing or grimy, the tape might roll up, but can be replaced. It helps to wash your hands and get the skin oil off before taping for good adhesion. Proper taping makes a world of diffrenece and makes you feel like a crack climbing machine.

From: Chris Wegener

How about don't tape. It rewards bad technique, it makes it harder to jam and it doesn't leave cool looking gobies on the back of your hands.

The biggest problem I see with people who tape is the tendency to throw their hands into the crack without looking. This often causes them to reach too far causing their jam to rotate when they pull up on it. The tape is fairly slick as well, meaning that you have to jam harder than you would without the tape causing your forearms to pump faster than they normally would.

Is it OK to use Superglue or Crazyglue (cyanocrylate-based glue) to repair minor finger injuries? [back to top] [FAQ contents]

Note: my research turned up a lot of warnings that Crazyglue is OK but Superglue is toxic as well as a like number of warnings that Superglue is OK but Crazyglue is toxic. Based on this, (and the See Also links listed below) I have to believe that it doesn't matter which you use. Obviously, Dermabond or a similar medical grade glue would be the best bet if available.

From: Karl Baba

On the less healthy side, when I get a split finger that just won't heal 'cause I just keep reopening it. I seal that sucker shut with Krazy glue and it's instant relief Baby!

Those who have not tried it may be skeptical, but I don't leave home without it. Some say it was developed as a substitute for stitches for the military but the standard disclaimer must apply,......I wouldn't know if 20 years down the line Krazy Glue won't make your nipples fall off and ruin the ozone layer to boot.

From: Geo Day

Cyanoacrylate was first used in Vietnam to close major wounds in combat. My wife is a surgical Nurse and it is used in surgery every day. The difference in the store bought stuff and the medical grade stuff is that the cheep stuff has other chemicals in it (by-products from side reactions in the processes of making it.)

From: John Evans

My wife and I use super glue fairly often to repair small cuts, cracks etc. I seem to use it primarily around my cuticles and finger tips. In the winter I am prone to getting "cracks" in the meat of my thumbs right at the top corners of the nail. Painful buggers that used to take forever to heal, since whenever I used my thumbs the crack would flex open, usually getting wider each time. Super Glue to the rescue!!! We keep a tube of it in our first aid kit. My wife claims it was first developed as a dental adhesive, and I know it is used Outside the US in some types of surgery in place of sutures (such as cosmetic surgery).

From: D. Gallardo

I've used crazyglue to repair flappers only once or twice--I don't usually have these kinds of problems climbing 'cause I don't really climb that hard. (Luckily for me, you don't have to get certified to post here...) But I use it all the time for cuticle repair, paper cuts, etc. I wouldn't use as a bandaid it to cover up open wounds--youch. Only to hold minor bits in place till they cleave together naturally.

From: Michael Riches

I use the Super Glue brand. I have actually used it on myself many times and have never suffered either skin irritation nor any pain associated with it's use. There may be a minor burning sensation but that could also be attributed to the actual wound. The warning label on the bottle says nothing about prolonged skin contact. In fact the only warning that is on the label is about eye contact and how to remove the stuff should you accidentally get it in your eyes.

From: KenR

Be aware that some people are deathly allergic to what ever is in these adhesives. Read an article in a model building magazine a few years ago that warned about this. If your gonna use it to mend minor wounds, which lots of folks do, first try it at home before using it on the road somewhere. If you breath a little bit of the fumes in accidentaly and break out in a funny looking red rash call 911 immeadiatly because your gonna need help in about 10 minutes, maybe less!

From: T

Great way to seal the germs inside a wound, but if used properly, it is a great tool in a FA kit.

From: Frank Stock

Tried it once on a minorly sliced finger, and it hurt like hell. Getting it off with solvent hurt worse. I think I'd rather bleed or use a Band-Aid.

From: B. Jelen

Also, Krazy Glue works well for holding athletic tape on. If the route works your fingertips hard - most tape will eventually slide around or pull off. Spotting a small amount of KG on the pressure point(s) improves the situation. I've never had any problem with removing the tape or cleaning up later.

From: Karl Pfleger

Does anyone understand why Dermabond, the version of superglue approved by the FDA in recent years specifically for medical use on skin for closing woulds (instead of stitches), seems only to be available to hospitals and professional medical practitioners? For use on skin, it seems to be superior to using "hardware" superglue brands like Crazyglue. For instance, it uses octyl esters, which are slightly more flexible when dry, and it doesn't contain methyl alcohols, which can cause burns, as most "hardware" superglues do. In fact, a number of people on rec.climbing mentioned pain and burning associated with using normal superglues in a thread last fall. For more on different ingredients in superglues and their medical use, see for example: Can We Really Use Super Glue Instead of Suture? which was a nice site I came across doing some web searches, though it doesn't talk about Dermabond specifically. Do some other web searches for that.

Since lots of people, climbers included but by no means exclusively, use Crazyglue and similar products to treat their skin (I had a doctor tell me today that it's great to use this kind of stuff for small cuts, and he keeps some in all his first aid kits), and these people are going to continue to do so without access to Dermabond, it would seem to make sense to make Dermabond available to individual consumers. Alas, someone clearly thinks that the writing on most superglue bottles is enough to dissuade most people from using it on their skin (and obviously this person must not have access to the internet where this practice is discussed frequently). I think most consumers would be better served by the more detailed instructions on skin use that undoubtedly come with Dermabond.

From: Pacts

One source is BME, under Supplies. It's $21.99 per single-use tube (only one in stock at the moment), not including shipping -- the company is based in Canada. Also, if it's not easily available in the US, it may be stopped at Customs -- check your applicable laws.

From: Jean Jorgensen

Sorry i cant help on sources for procuring dermabond but maybe i can explain why its not marketed to the general public.

1. Due to the fact that it is a more "permanent" means of closure for a wound .

2. Wounds that are deep or need more secure forms of closure i.e. suturing or dermabond should be adequately irrigated/debrided/cleaned BEFORE closure.

3. Some wounds involve structures below the surface which must also be repaired. some repairs are not straight forward or simple. some apparently "minor" wounds fall into this category

4. Surprisingly, there are some people who do foolish things with regard to their health care and may not adequately clean the wound first, or not realize that further evaluation or repair is needed.

5. But you say.."I'm just talking about skinflaps", but how does the manufacturer ensure that the end user will appropriately evaluate the cut for more extensive injury and adequately irigate/clean it before closing it?

See also:

Grand Canyon Private Boaters Association newsletter (page 4)
Suturing/Super Glue
FDA Transcript, 1/98 (page 11)

How do I prevent flappers? [back to top] [FAQ contents]

From: Ken Cline

Climb a lot, but don't wear your tips down to the point they are totally trashed (e.g. oozing). Learn to use good technique on the rock! Wash chalk off promptly (it dries the skin) and use a moisturizing lotion after climbing. I use athletic tape to cover raw skin and scrapes. Works OK, even on fingertips (make sure the tape is on securely).

Technique

From: Karl Lew

Stop grabbin dem hols so HARD. Its a shifting hard grip that rips your skin.

From: Rick

Maybe you should try grabbing the holds more "directly". Lots of people in my gym try to use the skin at the base of their fingers like gymnasts use doweling for competition. They grab holds so that the skin "bunches", giving them extra traction--but flappers in the long run.

Try approaching a hold directly, and grab the hold without "rolling" your wrist after you first grab it. In other words, bunching up the skin at your fingers helps tear them up--watch your hands to see if you're doing it. If you are--stop!

Skin Care

From: Chris Wegener

You need to mosturize your hands until they no longer have callousses. Chalk will dry your hands something fierce causing the problem you describe. Ideally you want callous free hands with soft flexible skin. The callousses do not bend or move, thus when you load the fingers the calouss tears off leaving you with the aforementioned flappers. Many here have recommended bag balm or other heavy duty mosturizing lotions. I find that washing my hands and then using any of a number of commercial hand lotions works well. As you get stronger you will find that your hands move less on the holds and the abrasive action that causes the callousses in the first place diminishes.

From: Chris Kantarjiev

Climb-On, distributed by Trango, is great for stopping flappers.

From: Greg Daughtry

Hoofmaker

From: Arete99

There's another product sold in feed stores, called Bag Balm (no kidding).

Taping

From: Kelly Rich

A number of issues ago, Climbing showed the CG method of taping your tips. I found this method really works, the tape seems to stay on longer than you'd think, and the tape only gets in the way a little bit.

Of course, there's no way to tape your tips without hindering performance, but if you've got to tape a tip, this is the only way to go.

Let's see if I can put into words what three or four pictures show: You use a very thin length of tape (about 1/4" wide) about 5" long. Start by placing the tape end half-way down the second section of finger (below the first knuckle), on the palm side of your hand. Run the tape up towards your finger tip. As close as possible to the tip, make a 90 degree turn in the tape (this is the crux), and begin wrapping your finger tip turbin-style, running the tape around your finger towards your palm. When you get to the first knuckle, cross over to the second section of your finger (below the first knuckle) and make a wrap or two there to finish off the tape job. Not too loose and not too tight makes a perfect fit. If done right, this method will keep your tips protected for a while. The reason this works so well is that the layers of tape are laid down your finger, the tape edges don't catch as your fingers slide off the holds!

From: Ken Cline

Extend a thin strip of tape down the length of your finger, over the tip and then bacu up the other side. Then wrap additional tape around each of the segments of the finger. Oh yeah, do this with your finger bent unless you like slimbing with straight fingers.

From: B. Jelen

Also, Krazy Glue works well for holding athletic tape on. If the route works your fingertips hard - most tape will eventually slide around or pull off. Spotting a small amount of KG on the pressure point(s) improves the situation. I've never had any problem with removing the tape or cleaning up later.

See also:

Is it OK to use Superglue or Crazyglue (cyanocrylate-based glue) to repair minor finger injuries? on Tradgirl

Does taking glucosamine help? [back to top] [FAQ contents]

From: Jay Tanzman - May '99

According to a quick search of the medical literature (Medline), glucosamine has shown promise in some clinical trials in the treatment of arthritis; however, the studies were not well conducted, and hence inconclusive. Additionally, long-term safety has not been ascertained.

From: Jay Tanzman - June '00

You might want to give glucosamine sulfate supplements a try. They are purported to work by promoting the growth of joint cartilage and by inhibiting inflammation. A review of the research on glucosamine has recently been published (1), with the authors concluding that, although the research to-date is not conclusive, there is evidence of benefit.

Anecdotally, my own experience was that I benefited from taking glucosamine. I have had arthritis in my knees for at least 10 years. I messed mine up running when I was in my teens. Until recently, I could not run more than 20 minutes before the onset of pain. I also was having increasing difficulty hiking downhill, similar to you, and I began to think that my climbing "career" might be over prematurely due to the difficulty I was having on approaches and descents. However, after taking glucosamine supplements for a couple of months, I am able to run for about an hour and downhill hiking is no longer a serious problem. I still get mild pain on long descents (eg, Tahquitz), but nothing like before. Not perfect results, but a substantial improvement.

You can get glucosamine at any health food store. I would suggest that you buy glucosamine _sulfate_, since that is what has been used in the studies. You might also find a glucosamine "complex," a mixture of glucosamine sulfate and glucosamine hydrochloride, which is cheaper than the pure sulfate salt. My guess is that the cheaper "complex" is a way to market an inferior, but cheaper to produce, product.

Reference:
1. Berning JR, Steen SN (1998). Nutrition for Sport and Expercise (2ed). Gaithersburg, MD: Aspen Publishers, Inc.

From: Hardman Knott

I have had very good luck with Glucosimine Sulfate for climbing aches and pains, as well as inflammations from running. It has been suggested to start with 3000 mg. a day to build up in your system; typically it takes 4-6 weeks, after which you can take a maintainance dosage of as little as 500mg. I noticed a difference within two weeks. I understand the studies have been done with the Sulfate form of Glucosimine, as opposed to Hydrochloride. It is, however, twice as expensive.

From: Maechyll

Using supplemental glucosamine has done miraculous things for me--I get this stuff by Schiff called Joint Builder--it's in the grocery store by the St. John's Wort and other related stuffs. It helped me with a WAY bad elbow when nothing else did. In a month I had most of my elbow back, and now I take it in the hope that it may help prevent more crap. But don't think it's okay to take a few pills and skip the "rest it" part.

From: Mark Imbriani

I have been taking Glucosamine Sulfate for around 8 months now. It has greatly helped my rotator cuff, knee, and fingers. I do not know anyone who has used it who did not get good results. On average, we felt it working after five days.

From: Amanda Tarr

I've had a great experience with glucosamine. Got carpal tunnel syndrome this spring from hand drilling and it wasn't going away after nearly 2 months of fairly strict rest. (well, with a couple weekends where I just couldn't stand to stay inside) Anyways, the first time sensation returned to the fingertips of my left had was about 5 days after I started on some glucosamine. Tendonitis in my shoulder and elbow seems to have healed a bit as well. Dunno, could also be luck and a bit of a placebo.

From: Steve Rollins

My chiropractor (a good one :) says Knox Gelatin is just as good and much less expensive.

From: CJ

Regarding glucosamine sulfate, I'd suggest spending a few minutes on Entrez-PubMed and possibly followup by reading the published papers if you're interested enough.

Something to ponder as you read through the search results: Is glucosamine sulfate a medication or merely good nutrition?

Even if everything claimed about glucosamine sulfate proves to be true, it is not the solution for a lot of knee problems. So people with serious knee problems might really want to consider going to doctor even if they start taking glucosamine sulfate.

See also:

Clinical Study Confirms Previous Results of Glucosamine Sulfate on Joint Health
Glucosamine sulphate: a controlled clinical investigation in arthrosis
Glucosamine for Arthritis
Glucosamine Sulfate - Chondroitin Sulfate
Glucosamine Hydrochloride vs. Sulfate

Will taping help protect me from finger injuries? [back to top] [FAQ contents]

From: Effect of Taping on Pulley Failure in Climbers (3/01) (note: this paper used to be available on the 'net but isn't any longer)

Conclusion(s)

Taping of the base of the fingers, as a prophylactic measure against flexor tendon sheath injury in the climbing athlete, is not effective.

From: Greg Daughtry

There are several studies, English, French, and German. You can search for abstracts, but you'll have to pay to get copies of the studies, or go to a local research library.

A lot of the wisdom was pretty well distilled by by Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard in Performance Rock Climbing, too.

There are really only two reasons to tape:
1) pulley reinforcement
2) to save your pads

My understanding is that it is best to use tape situationally. Never ALWAYS tape, which prevents you from strengthening your pulleys. Use tape when you want to prevent injury on a specific climb, or for your project that means a great deal to you, or for the last week of your 6 month road trip and you want to be certain not to injure yourself, or for the campus sessions.

Always listen to your body. Don't chomp Advil BEFORE you climb. Warm up, stretch, and rest a lot more than you think you need to. Work on general physical fitness, which aids recovery. Pay attention to a healthy diet.

There is no silver bullet...

From: John Davis

personally I think the "don't always tape" idea is pure myth - having had recurring finger injuries I now _always_ tape the middle two fingers of both hands - I've had no drop in crimp strength, and have now been injury free for over 2 years (climbing at a harder level than when originally injured).

Which would you rather do - always tape, or do one hard move too many and then face yet another 8 week lay off?

Ditto for your idea of only taping for a specific climb - either you have extremely good beta, or do you always lower off as soon as you hit move you think may be too crimpy?

From: Sue Hopkins

I have not seen any climbing specific studies related to tape. As far as I know the references cited by the other posters tend to more of the general survery type of studies i.e x many people got this injury and I found too vague to be really helpful either to the lay person or to the MD types. Having said that there is some research on taping specific to other joints. The most common application is in ankle sprains. I'll try to give an overview of some of the literature..

*****this is not intended to be exhaustive, and is also not intended to be advice specific to your own situation. (for all you out in lurker land (meant in the nicest possible way) please don't email me with questions about your hurt x,y, or z. I would be an idiot to offer specific medical advice over the internet and you would be a fool to take it).*****

Taping ankles prophylactically (ie in advance) reduces injuries (1). Initially it may reduce the range of motion of the joint by about 30-50 % (2). It loosens up with time (30-40 minutes) but may have additional benefits, even while loose, via facilitation of supporting muscle activity (3).

Problems with joint taping include: Tape allergies, impairment of circulation, and general stupidity on the part of the tape-ee (i.e. you're protected so you go out and hurt yourself.).

I personally do not understand the logic behind the suggestion that taping prevents the tendon from getting stronger, but I may have missed something.

the refs for above:

1. Garrick, J.G. The role of external support in the prevention of ankle sprains. Med. Sci. sports. 5:200, 1973

2. Vaes P. et al Comparitive radiological study of the influence of ankle joint strapping on ankle stability J. Orthop. Sports Phys therapy. 7:100, 1985

3. Loos, T. et al., The effect of ankle tape on lower limb muscle activity. Int. J. Sports. Med. 5:45, 1984.

For further reading I highly recommend:

Sports Injury Assessment and Rehabilitation by David C. Reid, published by Churchill Livingston, New York, 1992.

As far as I am concerned it is the definitive Sports med text. Although it does not cover climbing injuries, many climbing injuries, are not unique to climbing and this is a fabulous general text. There are good discussions of elbow injuries, the shoulder, carpal tunnel, hand tendon injuries, etc etc..all those little gems that come up here over and over.

From: Greg Daughtry

My understanding is that there are two primary modes of finger injuries for climbers:

1) chronic overuse injury of the flexor tendons.
2) rupture of the pulleys.

Taping cannot help with #1 at all.
Taping may help with #2.

Studies on ankle taping might not be applicable when you consider the mode of injury for ankles is a sprain. Joint sprain in the fingers might be a problem for basketball players, but not climbers, and the tape job to prevent finger sprain is completely different than the tape job to support the pulleys. The effectiveness of ankle taping in preventing injury is pretty well undisputed.

The suggestion is that taping prevents the pulley, not the flexor tendon from getting stronger. The flexor tendon continues to strengthen, yet the pulley is artificially supported and restricted from proper blood flow. That's the logic.

From: Clyde Soles

J Hand Surg [Br] 2000 Feb;25(1):102-7

"Taping over the A2 pulley decreased bowstringing by 2.8% and absorbed 11% of the force of bowstringing. Taping over the distal end of the proximal phalanx decreased bowstringing by 22% and absorbed 12% of the total force. Circular taping is minimally effective in relieving force on the A2 pulley. It is probably ineffective in preventing pulley ruptures."

This is based on testing of live rock climbers. And yes, he/she(?) does use the word "probably." Taping perhaps has value as a reminder against crimping -- the real culprit. OTOH taping may set you up for disaster if you've already tweaked the pulley and are still trying to climb before it's healed (something many climbers are guilty of, myself included). Taping falls into the "wishful thinking" category.

From: SM

I've done some of my own testing, albeit with a sample size of one. My results:

1) no taping of middle and ring fingers plus strenuous crimping on plastic = a propensity for tweaky (not ruptured, mind you, just sore enough to have to lay off hard crimps for a week or so) digits.

2) taping of middle and ring fingers plus strenuous crimping on plastic = OK digits.

3) no taping and outdoor climbing of any variety = OK digits, unless they're already tweaky from #1 in which case I shouldn't be climbing on them, but sometimes (gasp!) do anyway. Pretty rare though.

4) taping and outdoor climbing of any variety = OK digits

So in my clearly highly scientific tests, taping is more than wishful thinking. In my case, for my style of plastic pulling, taping seems to prevent tweaking fingers that aren't already tweaked. I rarely tape 'em when climbing outside, unless it's a sport climb or boulder problem at my limit. Almost never tape on trad. But, like I said before, YMMV.

From: Russ Dubiel

For those that would like to hear my experimental data for the tape-no tape debate on finger tendon pulley injuries: I've been climbing for 30 years. In the first fifteen years or so, I popped the pulleys on each ring finger twice, and on each middle finger once. One was so bad, it sounded like a pencil breaking (makes me shiver thinking about it again) A climbing bud showed me how to x-tape my finger to help rehab the last time. I now tape each of those four fingers every time I climb or boulder, gym or trad, short or long routes. I haven't re-injured a finger in the 15 years or so since I started taping. That French guy, Didier told me once when he saw me taping, that my fingers would never get stronger on their own if I taped all the time. Considering the pain, and the rehab time, I'll continue to suffer the bucks in a few rolls of tape. At my age, the rehab time is not an acceptable alternative. Maybe not at any age.

From: Tim Marsh

Taping reminds me that the finger is susceptible and should be 'babied'. A local physiotherapist who specialises in climbing and skiing injuries sugested to me that this may well be the primary mode of injury reduction.

See also:

Injury Prevention from the BMC

Health and Training: Page 1 2

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