General information and Mt. Rainier Resources [back to top] [FAQ contents][Mountaineering FAQ]

From: Rob Williams

You might have better luck searching the web if you spell it right: R-A-I-N-I-E-R.

From: A. Murphy

Find (your own) Answers to Questions: Mt. Rainier 6/26/97

Mt. Rainier is a very challenging mountain. If you're wondering about climbing on it you owe it to yourself to check out these sources. You will probably get better answers by finding them yourself, and your remaining questions will become much more focussed!

The horse's mouth:

Mount Rainier National Park (MRNP)
(360) 569-2211
Park Superintendent
Tahoma Woods Star Route
Ashford, Washington 98304

(And since people seem to ask, I've always found the Park Rangers to be helpful and knowledgeable. If in doubt, ask them; that's their job!)

USGS Maps:

The following two cover the summit and West, South, and East routes:

"Mount Rainier West, Wash" (N4645-W12145/7.5) (1677 IV SE) upper Liberty and Curtis Ridge, Mowich Face, Sunset Amphitheater, Camp Hazard; Glaciers: Edmunds, S. Mowich, Puyallup, Tahoma, Kautz, Wilson, upper Nisqually; all 3 summits

"Mount Rainier East, Wash" (N4645-W12137.5/7.5) (1677 I SW) Camps Muir and Sherman, Disappointment Cleaver, Gibraltar Rock,Little Tahoma; Glaciers: Nisqually, Cowlitz, Ingraham, Emmons,Winthrop

North side maps (below about 10,000 feet) are:

"Mowich Lake" (N4652.5-W12145/7.5) (1677 IV NE) and Sunrise, Inter Glacier, lower Winthrop and Emmons

"Sunrise" (N4652.5-W12137.5/7.5) (1677 I NW) lower Curtis Ridge, Willis Wall, and lower Liberty Ridge; Glaciers: Carbon, Russell, lower N. Mowich

Books:

Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills [hint: If you have to ask, you need it! 5th ed.]

Cascade Alpine Guide, Climbing and High Routes, 1: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey (ISBN 0-89886-127-6) [standard route source, with history and photos, 2nd ed.]

Climbing Instruction and Guide Services:

Alpine Ascents International Inc.

American Alpine Institute (AAI)

Cascade Alpine Guides (CAG)

Mount Rainier Alpine Guides

Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI)

Mt. Rainier and other related links:

MRNP's Official Homepage

MRNP on the web

From: syounge

Becky rules.

Other good (and smaller / cheaper) books:

- Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes (Jeff Smoot)
- covers 10+ volcanoes in all, but 1/4 of the book is Rainier

- Mount Rainier Adventure Guide (??)
- covers climbing, hiking, backpacking, scrambling, skiing, etc...

From: Matthew Noell

50 Classic Climbs in the Cascades with Jim Nelson is good too. As far as maps go, you can buy cool maps with photos and route info that cover many of the popular routes. Look for 'em.

From: Micah Laure

I've never done it, but I do know that Rainier is a HUGE mountain, it frequently turns back people because of weather and shouldn't be underestimated. It also kills people. Rainier is home to the largest expanse of glaciers in the lower 48 and crevasses are a very real danger, as well as avalanches. This area is also one of the snowiest places in the world, with Mt. Rainier being runner up only to Mt. Baker, WA in terms of the most snowfall ever recorded in a 12 month period (Mt. Baker - 1,140" July 1, 1998 - June 30, 1999. Mt. Rainier - 1,122.5" July 1, 1971 - June 30, 1972).

If you don't have someone experienced to take you (friend, acquaintence, etc.) consider doing a guided climb. Many of these programs combine the climb with a day or two of instruction on snow/ice climbing, glacier travel, self rescue (prussiking) and teamed rope travel, thus giving you the experience of getting to the top, along with some skills that you can take into the future with you.

See also:

Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide by Mike Gauthier, Bruce Barcott
Climbing Mount Rainier : The Essential Guide by Fred Beckey, Alex Van Steen
Mt. Rainier Climbing Guide SM10097 by Stanley L. Friedman

What are conditions on the mountain? [back to top] [FAQ contents][Mountaineering FAQ]

From: Matthew Nahorniak

Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center has snowpack for various places in the cascades under one of it's pages. For Rainier it has snow pack at Paradise. LOTS of other good and up to date weather and avalanche info on the site too.

See also:

NPS
National Weather Service Seattle, Washington

Will I enjoy climbing Mt. Rainier? / What's it like? [back to top] [FAQ contents][Mountaineering FAQ]

From: Joe Ford

Climbing it can be a sublime experience. From the top, you can see 150 miles in good weather, and you'll sleep like a baby the first night down. It's long by any route, of which two are popular with guided parties. One goes up from Paradise to Camp Muir, the overnight spot, and then to the summit via the Ingraham Glacier. The other goes up the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. While these are not technically difficult, both involve gaining in excess of 9,000 vertical feet, and the use of ice axes, crampons, ropes, and travel in heavily crevassed glacial terrain.

In good weather, parties typically take two full days for either route. In bad weather, which can occur any day of the year, the mountain is not where you want to be. Blowing snow, fog, and whiteout conditions make travel and rescue difficult.

From: Dan

There are many other very(in fact more) enjoyable climbs in the Cascade range including those which require much less experience than Rainier. Even though a peak is not well known or not the highest it can still yield a very rewarding experience. In fact it may be far more rewarding than being herded up the side of Rainier with a hundred other people.

From: Michael Rowe

Climbing Rainier is no picnic. It is considered to be the longest endurance climb in the lower 48. Train, train, train. Get some altitude experience if at all possible. People do die up there.

From: Jim Y.

My two brothers and I climbed Rainier with RMI a few years back, and we all agree it is one of the greatest experiences we've had. We still talk about it, and it has made us a closer family. None of us had had much mountaineering experience prior to the climb (a few extended backpacking trips), and no climbing experience to speak of. Don't worry about your lack of experience; the majority of people who go with RMI are inexperienced as well. The day-long class on self-arrest and climbing while roped is thorough, and the RMI guides are knowledgeable, helpful, and patient.

I found the climb up Rainier to be more of an endurance test, than a physically demanding endeavor. If I were to do it again (someday I will), I would spend more time trying to improve my stamina than my physical strength. I did alot of weight work and cycling before the last time, and I wish I had done more of the cycling. Both my brothers and I made it to the summit crater, but that was as far as we got. Of the 30 or so people in our group, only 4 or 5 actually could make it across the crater and up the last 300 ft. to the true summit; most were suffering from the altitude. Remember, you're going to be gaining around 9000 feet in 24 hrs, and if you're coming from Seattle, it's more like 14,000. That's alot. My brother and I spent a week in the Cascades just before our climb, and the altitude still wiped us out. It was like having a bad hang-over. I have wondered whether I might have avoided this by drinking more fluids on the ascent, so I would advise drinking as much as you can both before you leave on summit day and during the various rest stops along the way.

My other advice is not to skimp on clothing. If you stick to the list that RMI provides, you'll probably be OK. The one thing that I forgot to bring was a down coat. Having spent some time climbing a few peaks in the Cascades and Montana, I stupidly thought my rain-shell, pile jacket and wool sweater would be enough. It was fine while climbing, but when we stopped it really got cold (and this was the first week in August). The wind really went right through me. Fortunately, I was able to borrow an extra coat from one of the guides, so I was fine (although embarassed for being an idiot.) Sunglasses are a must as well.

Oh, and one other thing. You might want to bring some earplugs to wear when you sleep. There was one guy in our group who snored LOUDLY the whole night. It was hard enough trying to go to sleep at 7:30 PM (since reveille on summit day is 1:00 AM) without this guy sawing wood. I only got a few decent hours of sleep, which may have contributed to my feeling lousy on the summit.

From: rmb

A few things to make your climb a good one:

Rainier is not a steep "ski-hill" as someone here once referred to it. Rainier kills a lot of people who are in great shape. Know your technical skills before you set foot on the mountain. Don't think anyone will help you. Practice Practice Practice. Know all the knots you'll need for the climb. Practice roping up with someone. Know your Crevasse rescue systems and actually SET THEM UP. Some of the deepest crevasses in the world exist on Rainier(not that anything over 60' or so really matters). Read The Mountaineer's book(FOTH) cover to cover.

Train with a heavy pack (half your body weight) on long steep hikes. Do this every day or every-other day for at least 1 hour. Do all day 7+ hour hikes on the weekends. Train sometimes in your plastic boots to make sure that they fit and know what to expect for hot-spots. Walk around a lot in your crampons to make sure that they fit your boots and don't come off. Walk around grassy fields and front point up some trees a couple times to be doubly sure.

I live in CT and also can't get any altitude over 6000' or so. The key to surviving Rainier besides picking a good weather window is going slow and drinking TONS OF WATER. You cannot drink too much and should not stop until you are pissing clear and copious amounts. It really helps. It's a pain to melt ice/snow but it'll be worth it. Going slow is also how you can not only climb Rainier but enjoy it! Take one or two extra days at Muir or Ingrahm Flats to acclimatize and you'll feel great. Any one of us flatlanders going to 14,000+ in 1.5 days is stupid unless you're trying to prove you're macho or something. You'll have definite acute AMS and won't have any fun puking your empty guts up with a splitting headache.

To train down here, extreme long-distance cycling helped me tremendously at altitude. Your running probably does even better. Learning how your own body accliamtizes is the best way though when you're up there. Get Hackets(sp?) new book "Going Higher".

On summit day bring a light pack with lots of water and lots of fast acting carb stuff like GU (my absolute favorite) or something else that DOES NOT FREEZE(like Powerbars do).

-Oh yeah.... It's a beautiful place so.. HAVE FUN

What time of year should I go? [back to top] [FAQ contents][Mountaineering FAQ]

From: Joe Ford

The best time to climb, if reliable weather conditions are a primary consideration, is probably the end of July and the first of August. Historically the mountain has its best weather then, with meadows full of wild flowers, deep blue skies, and a startling contrast of white snow and dark rock.

From: Patrick Walters

I climbed Rainier in August last year, and I plan on doing it this year as well. However, conventional wisdom does say that later ascents may mean you have to wind around crevasses.

From: Alex

You can climb Rainier year round. Weather will be tricky. Permits are obtained at Paradise before you climb...be aware there is a peak fee :)

On that note, climbing Rainier in April does not have a high success rate. Snow is deeper, storms more frequent than in May and June

From: Michael Gordon

Taken from the feds website:

"Winter storms on Mount Rainier are frequent and severe, with high winds, deep snow, and extremely poor visibility. Winter conditions generally exist from mid-September to mid-May. All parties attempting a winter ascent should be experienced in winter mountaineering, avalanche forecasting and rescue, and be familiar with the intended routes of ascent and descent. The party size for winter climbing is 12."

From: Micah Lauer

The issue here is not elevation - it's weather and location. Today's forecast for the summit was called for a temp of -2 degrees with 25mph winds - that's a *friendly* day by Rainier winter standards. A lot of people get shut down on that peak because of weather. It gets fierce there and quick because the mountain takes the first brunt of storms rolling off the coast and it's the tallest mountain around by 5,000 - 6,000 feet.

Mt. Rainier is one of the snowiest locations on the planet (1,122.5" of snow in a year period 1971-1972) because it gets relentlessly nailed by storm after storm. In fact, Rainier came close to setting the record again last year (1,032.5 inches 1998-1999), but Mt. Baker, a little farther north, took the prize (1,140 inches, 1998-1999). Last year in Seattle they had 90+ days of rain in a row, meaning it basically didn't let up for 3 months. I wouldn't want to be stuck on top of Rainier in the middle of a 3 month blizzard.

From: Tom Rogers

During the winter season here weather windows turn in a matter of hours. You might not see the weather change again for a month. I know of world class climbers (and regular guys) who have done it as a training process for the big stuff but often times it's during the regular climbing season, not during the winter. Can it be done yes, should it not be done-yes. I would think you should be willing to say up there for a loooooong time and then be willing to risk down climbing through extreme avalanche conditions as a "total given" before you should do it. Your life will probably depend on it.

What should I wear? [back to top] [FAQ contents][Mountaineering FAQ]

From: Josh Huber

Kish, the experienced mountaineer recommends bringing one pair of lightweight, midweight and heavyweight tops and bottoms. That sounds like overkill to me, any feedback would be appreciated.

This is what RMI had us bring as well. (3 layers for each), and I was very glad I had them. Keep in mind that you're going to be starting the second day at some very early time in the morning and will be climbing at night. I remember being very cold when we stopped for food on top of the cleaver, even though I had all those layers. On top of those 3 layers, they wanted you to bring a down jacket for the summit since we hung out for an hour up there.

From: Rob Williams

Doesn't sound like overkill to me. This is pretty much what I take every time I climb Rainier (or any other big mountain). Layering is the way to go. Unless of course you are Marc Twight. Or a masochist. Or both.

From: Gorge Hiker

I make sure I have 3 solid layers for both my legs and my torso when I go to altitude here in the NW. I wear a thinner base on my legs and wear Gore pants over them. I have another pair of fleece pants that I can put on if conditions warrant. I can also open up the leg-zips and cool off quickly if I need.

I also wear a long-sleeved heavier wicking shirt, and usually wear a 100-weight fleece mock-T over that, with a Gore shell. I also have a Windstopper jacket I can also add. I usually don't wear this last piece while travelling, unless conditions are very windy and very cold. But if I have to stop, I'm glad to have it.

As far as extra clothing on longer trips, I will bring an additional wicking shirt and another pair or two of undies, plus a few spare sets of socks. Just the stuff that touches my body, or at least the sweaty parts. Smelling bad is part of a longer backcountry trip, especially in colder weather. Soak it up! ;)

And one last comment. Make sure you have good head- and hand-wear. Coming down from Camp Muir in a nasty, windy near-whiteout a few years ago, my hands and head were quite cold. I thought I had good protection, but clearly did not. I learned a valuable lesson. And Outdoor Research got some of my money.

From: David Johnson

I'd have a long sleeve white polypro top (for the heat) and bottoms. Add a midlayer and Windstopper jacket. Fleece will work if that's what you have. A Goretex shell, top and bottom. Also a down jacket, a good light one to throw on over all that. Bring one extra pair of high-tech socks, forget all the other extra stuff. Have light gloves and a bombproof pair. A windstopper hat that fits under your helmet. Lots of sunscreen.

From: Mike Garrison

Personally I bring clean socks for each day. Socks are light and my feet like clean and dry socks.

What's it like climbing with one of the guiding services? [back to top] [FAQ contents][Mountaineering FAQ]

From: Nathan Walters

I think the point here is that the RMI people will hold your hand and everything else while you do the climb ... there's not that much need for preparation other than being in aerobic shape. If you have never used ropes, 'biners, been at high altitude or know self-arrest/belay techniques with an ice ax, yes, RMI is a good way to go. But they will tell you what you need to know when you need to know it.

If you want info on Rainier, I'd suggest Molenaar's CHALLENGE OF RAINIER, and the section in the first volume of Beckey's Bible's is fairly comprehensive on the mountain itself (RMI drags you up either the Emmons or the Disappointment Cleaver route).

From: Mike Garrison

Most experienced climbers would resent the RMI approach, but hundreds of folks with your exact qualifications climb with them and seem to have a good time.

It will be a somewhat different experience being guided v. acquiring all the skills and partners you need to do it on your own, but that's your call.

And yes, beginners should not attempt Rainier or any glacier climb on their own.

For Rainier-specific info, check your library for Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol 1 by Beckey, Selected Climbs In the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield, and any other books that seem interesting. I think there are some books written entirely about Mt. Rainier.

For reference in those books, RMI tends to go up the Ingraham Glacier / Dissapointment Cleaver route.

From: Chris

Like the first guy to repond said, with RMI they will teach you the basics of what you need to know such as self arrest. When he was refering to hanging out w/ the cows, I beleive he was making a comment on how they shuttle such large groups up the mountain everyday. Just make sure your in shape and ready to go. If you have the opurtunity to go out and climb some less technical peaks, do it.

From: Lowell Anderson

I have not used a guide service, but RMI is competent and will take care of getting you prepared for the technical aspects of the climb. The physical aspects are your responsibility. The climb will not be technically difficult, but it will tax your physical ability and indurance. Use the old 80/20 rule--80% condition, 20% technical. Also, if you're not use to steep slopes, long runouts, deep crevasses, etc., it may give you a bit of a thrill--the adrenaline rush--but hey, that's why we climb. If you're not in prime shape and make it, you may want to heave your guts out when you get to the top. If you're in good shape, at best you won't have a slight headache. In any case, whether you make it or not, you will remember and reflect on the experience for the rest of your life.

You having no experience climbing in the Pacific North West, I think your decision to use a guide service is a wise one. Too often we see excellent rock climbers--consummed by ego, overconfidence, and lack of experience come up here and promptly fall into a crevasse or die of hypothermia. Climbing is not climbing--some types require different skills than others and weather can and does kill. Newbies consummed by getting to the top of the highest whatever, usually don't die using a guide service--:-).

From: Jan Jonegejan

I've done the 5 day course with RMI. Our group contained 2 experienced guides and one apprentice guide, together with 12 guests with varied experience. I never did this kind of stuff before: crampons, ice axe ice climbing, crevasse rescue, self arrest etc.

The tour was VERY nice, guides were excellent, but unfortunately my physical condition was not enough to make it to the top on the fourth day.

I think that the 40+ groups are using the standard approach via Camp Muir. The 5 day course was done in expedition style, every day a higher camp, following a path along Nisqually Glacier and Kautz Glacier.

From: Greg

I found the folks at RMI to be great. I did the 5 day course which was perfect for me. I didn't want to just knock off Rainier, I wanted to learn some new skills to use on other mtns. We had 20 people (5 ropes of 5 including guide) in our class. Aside from the summit day, when route finding was slow after fresh snow with this large group, the big group didn't matter (and probably made camp more interesting). I had the same concerns about that that you expressed. If it really is a big deal to you they also do individual guiding.

From: Mike Garrison

I have heard first-hand accounts of RMI guides bragging about hauling customers up to Muir in near-whiteout conditions, just so they would have to pay.

It's one thing to charge for the climb, regardless of whether you bag the summit, but it's another thing to take people up to high camp when you know you have no chance of summitting.

I'll say again, though, that all of the non-climbers I know who have actually climbed with RMI enjoyed their experience. The experienced climbers were less than thrilled.

From: Steven Deem

I think that RMI guides are highly variable in their level of experience, ability to teach, etc. I suspect that some have a very limited scope as "moutaineers", as the extent of their experience is slogging up and down the DC and Emmons routes on Ranier. Thats one of the reasons that many in the guiding/climbing community have been so bitter about RMIs monopoly over guiding on Ranier, and would like to see the mountain opened up (a little competition might improve things). If interested, there are private guides around Seattle that are much more interested in teaching technique.

Can I climb Rainier without a guide? [back to top] [FAQ contents][Mountaineering FAQ]

From: Joe Betor

last year four people died on Rainier within a week in August, two of them park rangers on a rescue mission. On a good day, anyone in good shape can climb it, the trouble is that with Rainier a good day can suddenly turn very bad. I would recommend that for your first peak, you go with a guide.

From: Reese Martin

A guide is not *required*.

Thousands and thousands of folks summit Mt. Rainier safely without a guide each year. All it takes is miminal glacier travel & self-arrest skills, a reasonable level or fitness, determination & a spell of good weather.

If the weather cooperates & you have basic glacier travel - rescue & self arrest skills it is not a big deal, just a hell o' a lot of vertical. I would stick to one of the dog routes for your 1st try.

If you want to avoid even walking on a glacier, Success Cleaver is an option. I don't recommend Success Cleaver since it's a long approach and a really boring route. See Beckey's Brown Cascade Alpine guide for details.

From: Snowleopard

Rainier is bigger than most peaks in the Alps, and takes 2-4 days to climb, depending on the route. You will need rope, crampons, axe(s), pickets. And screws on some routes. Plus warm clothing. There are two rock huts (poor accomidations compared to the Alps) high on the peak. The conditions vary week to week. Two weeks ago it was like winter up there. Right now, there has been a near heat wave, with winds blowing some areas bare, making some routes icy and harder than normal.

You need a permit to climb the peak, it should be noted.

From: Duncan Thomson

My personal opinion: Go for it! You don't need a guide. You may not make it - weather and altitude sickness are fairly common problems. Be prepared for bad weather. If things look bad, turn back, and try again another day.

You do want to make sure you *practice* self-arrest and crevasse rescue before you go for it. (Would be a good idea to take a course for this.) Also, for Ranier, in my opinion 2 people is not enough. Don't count on there being other climbers around to help in the event that one of you falls into a crevasse. Look for a strong 3rd member for your party.

From: Larry White

I second Duncan's opinion. You do not need a guide and you do need to practice all sorts of snow climbing and navigation techniques. Be prepared to turn back if the weather is iffy and be prepared to navigate in near zero vis. I have tried Tahoma 3 times and succeeded once. The other two were weather (60mph wind at Muir) and a partner with AMS at the top of the cleaver.

BTW, if you go with a guide, you will get far less than the actual acclimitization time that is required. They start you up one afternoon and bring you back the next. I suggest 2 nights at 10,000 and plenty of hydration.

From: Bill Foote

In my opinion, climbing is much more rewarding when I accomplish something on my own. I have never experienced RMI first hand, but I have friends who have. On a one-day "course" they won't teach you any more than is absolutely necessary to get you to the top. They WON'T teach you crevasse rescue, or anything about reading the glacier, etc.

So, I'll suggest something that might get flamed, but Oh Well!

I would consider this plan:

1) Prepare to the best of your ability by reading M:FOTH and practicing LOTS in crevasse rescue. Try different techniques, diferent pulley systems, etc. Do it with a heavy pack, in the cold, etc. Practice self-arrest til it's second-nature.

2) Check out the RMI schedule and just "happen" to schedule your climb alongside their's. This way, you'll have the benefit of an experienced "guide" rather than a babysitter, leading the way. Watch their every move, talk to people, and be prepared every minute, but also stay outa their way.

Be aware that on RMI's short trips, they don't allow for ANY weather days, so if the weather's too bad on summit day, they're going down! Be prepared to wait for their next group to come up, bail, or continue on your own.

Also know that shit happens. If you're not willing to accept the possibility on your own - go with RMI. Even with RMI, shit happens.

From: Alan Brunelle

On a good day on Rainier you will typically find so many people traveling the std routes that it will almost be annoying. Chances are climbers could easily hook up with another group, ie. ask to travel with another group as a separate two man (three for good crevasse rescue as recommended in the other post) rope team close to others (it quite possible this could be arranged without imposing on anyone, people are pretty good on these mountains). If not travelling on a lousy day the route will be so well marked by a trench, bodies and wands that the route finding will not be such a problem. Yes, Rainier is immense but the std routes are not the whole mountain. In such a case the climbers should not take any risks and be willing to turn around without hesitation in certain events.

From: Nick Parker

The posts that told people to follow RMI, or stay close to other groups, are complete bullshit. It's OK if the other team agrees to it, but it's definately not OK to depend on other teams if they don't explicitly agree to it -- they've got themselves to worry about. If an individual or team is not willing to accept the risks and consequences of being on a mountain themselves, then they should not be there. Period.

From: Kevin Geraghty

General comments: RMI is not much of a presence on the Emmons route. But it is a crowded route. If you are climbing in high season, and you don't like processions, climb mid-week.

The biggest danger on the Emmons route, in my view, is not snow bridge collapses, but uncontrolled slides (which of course end up in crevasses). At night in the summer the upper mountain is likely to be quite icy. Parts of it are on the steep side. If through some clumsiness one of you falls it is questionable the other will be able to hold you. Think of it like third class climbing: easy but with exposure. If you do something clumsy you could die.

Just "going the way everybody else is going" is in principle a questionable procedure, but it is common on the emmons route and most people get away with it. But failure to exercise your independent judgement could get you into trouble. I saw someone take a completely unnecessary crevasse fall on the emmons this summer: a snow bridge on "the route" (that is, the trampled-out trough) had partially collapsed the previous day; yet since it was "the route" parties were continuing to use it, even though it now involved jumping a four-foot wide crevasse and landing on a downsloping uphill lip. Needless to say someone didn't make it and took a flier. The thing was, though, there was a perfectly good snow bridge a short distance away, climbers had been ignoring it because it had no tracks on it, so was obviously not "the way".

You guys should work out the specifics of two-person crevasse rescue (demanding) and you should work on your self-arrest technique. Or you could just go up there unprepared and take your chances, like maybe half the people on the route in summer time.

How should I train to climb Mt. Rainier? / Do I need to be in really good shape? [back to top] [FAQ contents][Mountaineering FAQ]

From: Joe Ford

The major issue most climbers new to Rainier face is conditioning. It's important to be in _very_ good shape. Carrying overnight and climbing gear to 10,000 feet, and a summit pack to 14,400 feet takes good muscle conditioning and very good cardiovascular conditioning. For a July climb, start in March and run as much as you can. My training program generally includes running 15 to 25 miles a week at an 8:30 to 8:45 pace, with as much uphill hiking on the weekends as I can muster. Many climbers "warm-up" for Rainier by climbing another volcano, such as Mt. Baker, a week or two before.

From: Larry

The aerobic part is very important. If you go for the five day class, you'll do two 5000' days, and the aerobic work will be really helpful.

From: Chuck Gorder

To climb Rainier, even up the "easy" routes, you need to be in good cardio-vascular condition. That means able to run about 5 miles in less than 40 minutes, or do the equivalent in some other form of aerobic exersize. You need a rope, crampons, clothes for deep winter conditions and full summer conditions (either or both of which you WILL encounter), a four season sleeping bag and shelter system, and at least two other trained and competent people in your party. The training should be in altitude/winter travel, crevasse rescue, ice ax techniques, including being able to self arrest from any of the four possible falling positions (on the back, head first is my favorite) and in general mountaineering, including rope handling, belay techniques, prussiking, and first aid.

From: Barbara McCann

All one really needs to do in the way of preparation if going in the company of RMI is get in shape. It'll be quite obvious early on in the training who hasn't done their homework in this regard, so the risks in going with RMI, in my opinion, are minimal. If this party were to go up without professional guidenace, however, there could be problems. Also, getting dragged up Mt. Rainier if you're not in shape is not much fun. With a guide service in tow, the first-timer can pretty much regard the climb as the "ultimate Stairmaster."

From: Ethan Veneklasen

Check out the Alpine Ascents International Web site. On their site, Stacey Taniguchi has done a very good article on training for Denali. It includes a daily periodized approach to training for mountaineering and for a big mountain. It is progressive as well and lays out a month by month day by day approach to training.

As for your experience...As you have already figured out, Rainier is a big mountain and demands to be taken seriously. Many peoplpe have been injured and killed climbing there and it happens every year. I agree with those above who recommend going and finding a good guide service who is permited to operate on the mountain. This will dramatically limit the risk and increase your chances for success.

That does not mean you shouldn't do it, GOD knows!!!! Training for a big mountain will not only improve your chances of success, but will also get you more and more excited for the adventure. You will find that while you are training, all you can think about is the mountain. It's a very positive thing and will help steel your resolve and build the mental toughness you will need when you are climbing.

From: Keith Allen

I did Disappointment Cleaver with RMI a long time ago, and the head guide was very careful to explain why they climb at the speed they do, which is a good solid mountaineering pace, and nothing more. The route is inherently dangerous, and they want to get up and down before noon so as to avoid being under the Ingraham Icefall when it starts moving in the early afternoon. They're also careful to get out of Muir before most other parties, partly to avoid any traffic backups on the cleaver. We left Muir at 1AM, and were on the summit by 7AM, and down out from under the icefall by 11.

On the day before the climb they took us out for a hike near Paradise, and the guide took off uphill at what I considered a good training pace. He was specifically looking for people who had trouble going uphill at that speed because experience showed that they'd be likely to crap out up on the mountain (and its a real hassle for the guides if a client hits the wall just about anyplace above Muir). When we were up on the summit icefields some guys were really bumming about the pace, but it was pretty clear to me why we needed to make pretty good time.

From: Wayne Busch

If you want to be really prepared (I was), do stadium steps with a 50 lb pack for at least an hour every 2 - 3 days for a couple months. Keep running and biking on the off days.

From: Mahoi Huang

it's certainly good for the muscles and VO2max. but watch out don't ruine your knees. we retreated from under 12K because a partner blew out one of his knees. for an hour he couldn't move it at all.

From: Denis Byrne

I will tell you how I trained. I am 200lbs with a fair chunk of body fat. I humped 3 telephone books up a local hike for 1 hr ONCE and continued to get pissed up on the weekends. I never stopped drinking my 5 or 6 cups of coffee a day. I do not smoke. My diet is junk food, high fats punctuated with the odd piece of fruit.

Ranier is mostly a mental game. Determination and a strong desire to Summit will get you there if you are reasonably fit and you get a good weather window.

From: Mike Garrison

Well, it's not all mental. People who have never climbed at such altitudes sometimes overestimate their strength reserves and underestimate the time it will take to do things.

My advice would be to keep a positive attitude, do what you can to get your legs strong, and spend some time working on your skills and getting to know your equipment. Especially the sort of gear that you probably don't use often in Georgia.

For instance, the difference between taking 5 minutes to strap on your crampons and taking 20 minutes can be the sort of thing that ends up making or breaking you. It is important to climb efficiently.

From: Jay Cooley

Don't know where you are in Georgia but I would advise running up and down Stone Mountain a few times one morning and then, after you are good and tired, strap on about 50 lbs of pack and hike up and down a few times. This will start to simulate what it will be like as you ascend to your high camp.

And if you've been out late drinking more than you should, get up early in the morning while your head hurts and you feel terrible and do the above. That can simulate some of the same altitude effect.

From: Chris Kantarjiev

The thing I learned in my unsuccessful bid for Shasta last year is that there's a big difference between running for an hour or carrying a pack for two hours and slogging a pack through snow for six hours at altitude.

I was in probably the best shape I'd ever been, and I was totally unprepared for this difference. Since you pack the Appalachians, it may not be as big a difference for you, but I recommend that you put in a lot of "long, slow, steady" days with a heavy pack before heading out.

From: Greg Todd

Concentrate more on lugging weight up and down back packing, rather than running. In my group, the two people that did turn back after leaving Muir (several others didn't leave from Muir) were older folks (late 40s, one 50s) who were primarily runners. Maybe this had nothing to do with anything but I'm a good slow plodder, not much of a runner, and I did ok.

Like someone else said, when you're up there, drink *a lot* more water than you feel like drinking. Just get to the point where it's zipping through you. Start on that a day or so early.

From: David van Baak

The two best things you can do, in addition to your continuing running and hiking, might be

1) to contrive a way to spend a few days and nights at some altitude just before your climb. You could get a jump-start on acclimatizing by doing some moderate activity, as well as eating and sleeping, at say 6000-8000 feet.

2) to drink an inordinate amount of water at whatever altitude you can attain. Drinking (water, that is) in excess of perceived thirst is in my experience a big part of acclimating to higher elevation; at the very least, you can make up for the intensely dehydrating effect of an air trip.

From: Superalpine

don't know if it will help you, but the the greatest problem i have had is getting my legs in shape for post-holing. if you have it, i would hike with a heavy pack in sand. if not, just hike with a heavy pack. i lived in north carolina and used that to train for rainier. one other tip, take lot's of food with flavor. all that stuff i enjoyed eating at the crag in nc (power bars, candy bars) had no taste. my pallet was tweaked by tuna fish and spicy soups.

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