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Climbing FAQ
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| Buying Rock Climbing Gear (Page 1 2) | |
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IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER:
Trusting your life to something you read on the
internet is just plain stupid. Get corroboration from a more reliable
source, use your common sense, don't get yourself killed, and don't come
crying to us if you do.
What should I use to make a cordelette? [back
to top] [FAQ contents]
Note: some of these answers were taken from Gunks.com
From: Tokyo Bill
With respect to materials, the choices I've seen most frequently suggested are 5.5mm Spectra cord, 7mm perlon accessory cord and 6mm perlon accessory cord. All apparently get the job done. My personal comments on each are as follows:
Spectra: This is what I carry. It's way stronger than anything else out there, and the narrow diameter is a plus for carrying. With respect to handling characteristics, its stiffer than perlon, which is a little bit of a pain, but I don't think its a big problem in a cordalette. Spectra's got a much lower melting point than perlon, which means that you run a higher risk of burn-through if it gets subjected to friction somewhere in the system. However, I don't ordinarily expect a cordalette to be subjected to friction, so I'm willing to accept this risk. Finally, Spectra is slippery, which means an ordinary double fishermans knot doesn't do the job. Make sure you tie it with a triple fishermans and consider finishing this with overhand knots.
7mm perlon: Amply strong (not as strong as spectra, but with a higher melting point). Nice handling, although a bit bulky to carry. No complaints about this alternative.
6mm perlon: Should be strong enough. Nice handling and the smaller diameter makes it more compact to carry than 7mm. Just doesn't feel beefy enough to me, and I wouldn't make it my first choice for this reason.
One additional comment with respect to length. I've sometimes seen recommendations in climbing books and on other forums of 16 or 18 feet for tying cordalettes. My own feeling is that you're better off with at least 20 feet, and mine are actually a bit longer (around 21-22 feet). Cordalettes are at their best for letting you rig together and (sort of) equalize widely-spaced pieces quickly and efficiently. It's a real pain in the butt to discover that your cordalette isn't long enough - kinda defeats the purpose.
From: TZ McBetsey
I've got two...first one 18 feet (recommendation of John Long in his anchor book). That's too short, in my opinion, unless you happen to luck into anchor points that are very close to one another; and it requires that you stand right up against the rock when belaying up a second. Sub-optimal, to say the least. My other one is 21 feet long, and seems just about right, but if you want 4 pieces for your anchor (rather than the nominal three), your cordalette will need to be longer than that.
From: Steve Y
5.5mm High Tenacity Vectran Cordelettes
These are sold by Sterling Rope Company they are as strong as Spectra, but as supple as nylon. I got the 25' but it's too long 21' I think would be best for most trad applications. The downside is expense, about $1/foot. The upside lighter, stronger and less bulky.
From: http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/High_Strength_Cord.pdf
How strong should your anchor be? One arm of a Vectran cordelette, for example, fails at only 2600 lb (11.5 kN).
This is little stronger than a good carabiner in the open-gate mode - and the material gets weaker with use. Is this
strong enough? One can easily argue that the drop test we performed is unduly harsh. First, it uses a completely
static belay. A sticht-plate or tube belay-device can reduce the peak impact forces significantly. Second, the lead
rope is run through the central anchor point. This practice increases the load at the anchor. Third, the test loaded
only one arm of a cordelette. While the cordelette anchor does not equalize when the belayer shifts position, there
is typically enough stretch in each arm that all three will be loaded to varying degrees in a major impact. Fourth,
Chris Harmston, Black Diamond's Quality Assurance Manager, has reviewed field failures of climbing gear for
eight years. He has never seen a stopper rated at over 10 kN fail, and has seen only a few carabiners fail in closed-gate
mode. He believes that forces exceeding 10kN rarely happen in climbing falls.
All that said, we do not think it is unreasonable to expect one arm of the anchor to hold at least one UIAA fall on a
soft rope when both the rope and the cordelette material are new! The decrease in strength with use is a worry for
any of the Technora, Kevlar or Vectran materials. The Gemini and the Spectra-A are also extremely stiff and
difficult to tie and untie. An 18 -foot piece makes a bulky object hanging from the harness. They make excellent
chock cord (where a stiff cord is desirable), but would make a poor cordelette. Among the high-strength cords,
Titan seems to be the most suitable material for cordelettes. The Ultratape is even better, and the webolette is an
elegant solution to multi-point anchors, although we'd prefer to see slightly higher strength on the single-strand
arms. Last, Nylon cord and webbing may be the best of all. Although heavier, they are cheap, strong, universally
available, and seem to have a virtually unlimited flex life.
From: David Kreindler
In your exceprt "From:
http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/High_Strength_Cord.pdf", I think
a couple of editorial comments are needed to clarify that what they
refer to as "Gemini" is Gemini-2 (Technora) and what they refer to as
"Titan" is Spectra (Dyneema). Someone who relies on the excerpt without
referring to the article quoted might be left confused.
From: Wallhack
Consider getting a Web-o-lette. Much lighter, less messy, and quick to set up an anchor.
From: Julie Haas
I have a web-o-lette, but I'm still not sold on it. It's great and fast at a two-bolt belay; but for oh, say, three not-so-close pieces, you have nowhere near enough length to join them, much less tie the required knot. So, as noted above, it defeats its own purpose - you have to use runners to extend everything.
See also:
How to Choose and Use Webbing and Accessory Cord on REI
How does buying stuff from Barrabes work if I live in the US? [back
to top] [FAQ contents]
From: James Kirby
I've never had a problem with their customer service in many orders and
have in many cases received my order that same week (phoned the order
rather than online).
From: Kai Larson
I have had good experiences with Barrabes. Three friends have also
purchased from them. One of them experienced a long delay (several
weeks) in receiving gear because it was out of stock (they didn't
notify him that a delay was expected). The others received their gear
within a week.
If they have what you want, the prices are pretty much unbeatable.
From: Jason Liebgott
Barrabes has given me problems. First they didn't have some of the
stuff in stock that they had on their site. Then they shipped to my
billing address instead of the shipping address, then once I got the
gear they sent the wrong size cams.
Also, for some reason my shipment got held up in Customs. They said it
was because they didn't recieve a detailed description of the goods. I
had to fax a description to NY.
I contacted them and it took over 2 weeks to hear back, but they did
say they'd cover the shipping back to them. Also, I got a customs bill
for like $18 on the imported goods - so expect that.
From: Chris Watford
You'll get totally hosed at customs when it comes into this country,
EASILY more than the $ you saved. Since ecommerce is dicey to customs
folks, they check everything now, especially from Canada.
From: Michael Gordon
NOT TRUE in all cases. I just made the exact purchase he speaks of (Rambos'
from Barrabes) and paid nothing more than the item cost plus DHL shipping
charges. nothing more.
From: Chalkula (on Gunks.com)
Just a further note, if you spend over a certain amount of money, in my case just over $200, don't be surprised to get a bill from DHL or other shipper for import tax due, I got one for $18.00. I don't know at what dollar amount constitutes the tax but just be prepared. ( I still saved over $85.00 on an altimeter, even with the charges!)
From: Geoff
Be aware that all imports are assessible for Customs Duty.
In the US you may in most cases import $2000 for personal use as long as it is not prohibited in any way.
The climbing stuff in Barrabes is OK.
The amount of duty also depends on the status of the country imported from. Spain is OK.
The duty on Ice tools will be 4%, again nothing compared to the savings.
However if goods are not declared for customs, they will be confiscated. Not nothing. And you will be subject to penalties as well as losing the gear. Ouch.
and from a later post
Everything is assessed for duty.
The $2000 is an allowance for personal use that you are allowed without getting an import licence. You only get a duty free allowance if you are travelling with the goods. The duty free would be (guessing amount here) the first $200 is exempt from paying duty, and the duty rate applied to everything else.
The Country of Origin and Import country means what rate of tariff you pay. Spain is a favored Country and you pay the lowest rate. Also the common country of Origin for Ice tools (UK, France, Italy) are also favored. From a shoes perspective Boreal is a Spanish company and qualifies.
I did not look up Czeck.
4% on Ice tools is because I looked them up on the Customs website. They come under "sports equipment". and have a 4% rate.
I did not look up shoes. This would also be a Customs interpretation, are climbing shoes clothing or sports equipment.
Yes, lots of people do not declare or pay State sales tax.
State tax departments do not have the same powers of search and siezure as the US Customs. If you really want to p*ss someone off, pick a target that will make your life miserable.
My position is that even with declaring and paying the duty the gear is a great price. The only time you really lose is if you try to get away with it and get caught.
This only affects me if so many people get caught that they disallow personal imports, then I get screwed too. The other thing that applies is some stuff has import limits. Once x of these are imported no more can be that year, personal or commercial. Then you either pay Customs storage until next year, or send it back. This does not apply to undeclared goods, they are siezed and either sold at auction or destroyed.
From: Mike Garrison
You can carry in $400 of goods without duty, but you can
only have $200 of goods mailed to you. However, there seems
to be no limit to how many separate <$200 orders you can
have mailed to you.
The website notes "There are some exceptions". I think this
means booze, perfume, and tobacco, but I'm not sure.
See also:
Barrabes English Version
What cams should I buy? [back
to top] [FAQ contents]
From: Nate Beckwith
First - there are two brands of cams to choose from - Wild Country, and
Black Diamond. Also CCH for the smaller sizes. Everything else is cheap
crap only purchased with future regret by poor high school students and
clueless newbies looking for meaningless functionality. This should be the
end of this post, except I just ate a big lunch.
Take a look in any guidebook from anywhere. Do you see "Bring a # 2 [insert
off-brand crap cam here] for the crux" or [insert off-brand crap cam here]
mentioned in the gearlists? Better print out a decoder table. Maybe the
fact that the rest of the friggin world sticks to two brands of cams should
be a clue. Go to your nearest store and try to find trigger kits for
[insert off-brand crap cam here] cams. Also, I guarantee that anyone you
partner up with is going to want to climb with cams they are familiar with.
If you dump a bunch of [insert off-brand crap cam here] into the community
pile, expecting that you'll be making some sort of contribution rather than
being perceived as a clueless cheapskate - just wait.
Now - which cam? BD or WC? Get 1 set of BD, then lots and lots of WCs.
Here's why: Your observation that BD cams are heavier is an astute one.
That's why when you start carrying 2-15 each racks, you'd rather they be
something light - like WC rigid stem friends for the larger sizes, and flex
friends for the smaller sizes. BD cams, however, are the best thing for
routes where you need a sparse rack. Fewer (and thereby lighter) BD cams
can cover the same spectrum. Take your little calculator and add up the
weight of the .5, .75, 1-3 Camalots, then compare that weight to however
many [insert off-brand crap cam here] cams you need to bring to cover the
same spectrum. Toss in some CCH Aliens or maybe a flex friend or two for
sizes smaller than the .5 Camalot.
Oh - and ignore the advertised strengths of cams. None of them will break.
Move on.
From: Christian Brooks
I agree, you ain't going to break a cam. Metolious TCUs are great, Trango TCUs
are great. But, both companies FCUs suck- horrible designs. A mixture of
Friends and Camalots is the way to go. Throw in A few Aliens and a set of TCUs
and you will get where you want to.
From: Brent Ware
Since I got my offset Aliens, I have not wanted to
place a TCU ever. The only time I do is when I run out of Aliens. If
I had it to do over, I'd skip the TCUs and just get more Aliens.
And sorry Nate, but I like my HB quadcams. They're beauties, and in
using them 10 years, I've had one trigger break, compared to each of
my Camalots having the trigger replaced one or more times, just about
every six months. I'll take not needing to get new triggers over
being able to find them in any shop (and I send them to Vermin anyway
for beefy cheap fixes - they seem to hold up better than the original
triggers, haven't had to get one of them replaced yet).
That said, I haven't bought any more, just new Camalots and Friends.
So what Nate said.
From: Karl Pfleger
These [note: refers to WC and BD] are the predominant brands purchased by people who have a lot of money
or enough time to work in a climbing gym or outdoors-type stores like REI and
thus get big discounts. Plenty of other brands make excellent quality cams
and other pro.
Furthermore, both the WC Friends and BD Camalots have a single stem design,
which has certain advantages and disadvantages (as do the Alients). The cams
this poster is insulting mostly have dual-stem U-shaped design, which is
better in some conditions than the single-stem design, so it is helpful to
have a variety. Variety is also helpful to increase the chance of having
something fit well as the different manufacturers have slightly different
sizes.
If you want really cheap but nonetheless perfectly functioning and strong
cams check out www.rockempire.com. You can get a set of 5 cams covering the
most common sizes for $125, or 8 cams which are these 5 plus 3 microcams very
very similar to Alients for $180 total. I'm not affiliated, just a happy
customer. There are many extensive discussions about these cams on the
message boards on the gunks.com website, including posts by both people who
have used them with good results in holding falls while really climbing and
posts by a number of independent purchasers who put them through a series of
tests. They are a lot like the Metolious or Trango cams. For $25/cam you can
get two sets and then not have to worry if you lose one.
From: Charles Tarzen
I hate Wild Country friends. I find them useless. In the ten years I've
owned my flexifriends I've placed them maybe, maybe 2 times each. My
Camalots saw a lot of action and still do but I prefer metolius. The TCU's
simply can't be beat (except if you're aiding, then use aliens) for thin. I
usually rack all metolius these days, except for super wide cracks. But if
I'm building an alpine rack I sling a set of nuts, a set of .5-2 tricams,
1-3 TCU (metolius of course), and a .75, 1, 2 , 3, and #4 camalot. Covers
everything I've ever run into.
From: B. Cooke
DMM's walk -- oh do they walk... even if you put long slings on them. In
fact they are the worst cams i have used in that manner (out of BD,
Metolius, rigid friends, and DMM). The DMM's on my rack have walked out
of placements entirely and, on the other end of things, into placements so
badly that I've had to ruin them getting them out. Also, the DMM's
trigger is shit (maybe becasue of the storng spring?) -- it's not smooth
at all (like the silky metolius') and requires more lubing than any of the
other cams I've used.
From: Jeremy Pulcifer
I shopped around a lot and played with a bunch of partners gear before I
bought my current set. I chose WC Friends. I'm not a BD Camalot fan, because
they're so stinkin heavy, and the Metolius are a bit sketchy in the bigger
sizes because the axle lengths are too short.
Spring strength is a good thing to look at as well. I wasted $280 on a set
of trango cams, not realizing that their light springs would make them
super-prone to walking. I've lost a couple already.
From: Tom Stybr
The difference in weight between full sets of Camalots (13 pieces - 6
pounds) and Tech Friends (14 pieces - 5 pounds) is <drum roll> one
pound. Make it one and one-quarter if subbing Forged for like-sized
Tech's.
From: Inez Drixelius
We agree then--the basic set of cams very much ought to be camalots
because they are so versatile. What I am suggesting is something lighter
for backup cams. Oh hell, when I first started buying cams, I bought all
sorts of stuff I didn't like and it took a while to find what suited me.
I think the home crag of the original poster should be taken into
consideration too.
From: Chris Kantarjiev
I don't know what John will say (I find it ... dangerous to try to
predict what he'll say :-) but as a beginner who received similar advice
from another one of the Old Ones on this group, I'll say I am happy with
the results. Why? I care less about the weight (if I did, I'd still be
paying attention to the diet pissing war between Cline and Kastrup) than
I care about my poor ability to choose the right cam off my rack.
Practice will help, and I'm getting better, but until I get a lot
better I'm happy that the Camalots are more forgiving of picking the
"wrong" cam than Friends would be. Learning to place gear on lead is
strenuous enough without extra gear fumbling.
From: John Brynes
However, this is all hypothetical since the most important factor to
consider is:
What kind of rock will you be climbing most often in your local area?
In other words, where do your local areas lie in the spectrum between Indian
Creek (long parallel cracks that only take cams) and Eldo (short pitches,
lots
of passive placements, discontinuous & varied cracks).
For Indian Creek & Yosemite, for example, Friends are going to be better.
For Eldo-like places, Camalots will usually be better. For the Gunks, a
flexible
stem is better, for...
See also:
Rock Protection Device Size Range Charts on Tradgirl
Which helmet should I buy? / Should I get a foam helmet or a hard shell helmet? [back
to top] [FAQ contents]
From: Eric
As far as hard shell vs foam climbing helmets they both have advantages
and dissadvantages (and neither is rated for multiple impacts. The
advantage of the hard shell is improved penetration resistance and
reasonable impact protection from above. The disadvantage is no side
impact protection. This makes them great if your concern is something
falling on your head, but not so good if your planning on taking the fall
and banging your head on the ground a few times. The foam helmets dont
have the same kind of resistance to penetration but are ideal hitting your
head during a fall.
From: Hank Moon (Petzl)
The biggest problem with Bike helmets is that they're rated
for ONE impact. That might not be bad if you're only a single pitch
This is also the reality of climbing helmets. They are also rated for one
significant impact, so any type of lightweight helmet will have the same
"problem". The following text appears in the technical notice for the ECRIN
ROC:
Major shock
Lifetime
Some people think the foam helmets are bunk because a falling rock can take
a chunk out. I call this a safety feature: if there is apparent damage, the
user will perhaps be less likely to keep on wearing it. There is a
perception among some wearers of hard-shelled helmets that because damage
isn't readily visible after a major impact, the helmet is still good. This
is incorrect: please see the "Major shock" text above.
So If I read you right, here, you are saying that on pitch #6 when that
foam bike helmet is badgered into nonexistence, the Ecrin is no
better...???
Correct, except for the "nonexistence" part :-)
Even if the damage is not visible...??? Granted, I don't have x-ray eyes, but
it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see the fallacy here...My money will
stay on something that is still intact after any impact. Petzl has to put the
major shock disclaimer in for liability reasons...
As stated before, the "intactness" of a hard shell helmet after a major
impact is an illusion. This is not stated as a disclaimer for liability
reasons, but is a fact established in testing. A major impact can weaken the
helmet in ways undetectable by visual inspection. I completely understand
why one would prefer a hard hat for the reason stated above - it is easier
and more comforting to believe that helmet looks good = helmet is good.
From: Stevie Prouty
What I have a problem with is the fragile nature of
the foam style helmets. They just don't last as far as I'm concerned.
The Grivel literally fell apart after what I thought was "normal use",
i.e. treated just like I did my Ecrin Roc. And the Meteor looks to be a
little better quality but after a single use already has a small section
where the shell and the cap have come undone. I guess I'll keep my eye
on it and see how long it lasts. I'm betting two seasons at best.
From: Hank Moon
I agree completely with your discussion of overall durability, stuffing in
pack, tossing in car, etc. My 4-year old Meteor is way more beat up than my
8-year old Ecrin (oops, guess I should retire it, but it's one of those cool
marble ones . . . looks so good in photos!). There is no doubt the foam
helmets are more susceptible to minor damage from incidental knocks in
general use.
From: Christopher Hall
I would suggest trying some on and see what feels best. If you read the
reviews, you can narrow it down to a small group that is designed for the
types of climbing you will be doing. The next most important thing is
comfort. Go figure out what fits your head best and which you feel most
comfortable adjusting/etc. Put it on in the store and then sit down to read
or browse around a while, and see if you get used to having it on your head.
The ones with a bad fit will always remind you that you are wearing it. My
experience is that they never feel great at first, so give yourself some
time to get used to it. If you can find a few that fit well, then you can
choose according to weight and/or style.
From: Toby
If you buy a helmet, the white ones absorb less sun and don't cook your
head so much.
From: Dave Condit
I would go with the Ecrin Roc. I think it has the best adjustment system
available.
From: brynstrom
If you're going to do any winter climbing, get the Ecrin Roc. The dial
adjustments readily (and quickly) accomodate use with and without hats,
hoods, balclavas, etc.
From: Adrian Marches
I got the new Petzl Meteor and I love it. It covers more of your head, is
very comfortable, and is very light. Sometimes I forget I'm wearing a
helmet.
From: Karl Lew
I have Meteor and Roc. I wear the Meteor 'cuz it's
lighter. I also wear it on my head, not in my pack.
From: Rex Pieper
I really like the Meteor and have done walls in mine too. They're far
more durable than you might believe, just give them a little more
respect than you might the indestructable Roc and put them at the
top of your pack and you'll be fine.
From: Jim Forbes
I've been pelted by all kinds of stuff for the last 6 or 7 years while
wearing an Edelrid and have been generally pleased. It's not so heavy
as to make you want to not wear it, but it still has some meat to it.
From: Jeff Wright
The Ecrin Roc really is a great helmet, but you can get a helmet that is
lighter and almost as comfortable for $30.00 less (this is saving a lot
more than "only a few dollars" in my book). I used to own the Ecrin
Roc, but now I have an HB (can't remember the model name). The Ecrin
Roc costs close to $75.00 anywhere you look (I have yet to see them on
sale). The HB only went at $45.00. The only drawback is that the HB
isn't nearly as adjustable, but the way I see it, how many tmes do you
need to adjust the fit of your own helmet?
From: Michael Sharp
I just bought a HB Carbon-Kevlar EL Cap and It is one of the most
comfortable helmets I have worn.
From: John Muchow
I just got back from a 8-day trip and the BD
Half Dome was very comfortable, even with a baseball cap underneath
for a bit of sun protection for the face. For me, it fits well,
adjusts easily, and took a lot of abuse as we wandered around the
Linville Gorge dodging lightening.
From: Mike Yukish
This is a funny. Do you need to be told?
I use a plastic trash bag filled with polyurethane spray insulation, then
shove my head into a small wastebasket while the urethane sets. It forms
to my noggin perfectly. I use coat hangers for re-bar, and leave the ends
protruding to act as curb feelers. I paint it bright orange, with my blood
type, HMO number, and names of next-of-kin on it (although if you ask
them, they will deny it). Sometimes I tie streamers to it to use as a
windsock for my second. Often birds roost on it, so I my tie a piece of
suet on. I sell advertising for Power Bars and that nasty power gel too.
See also:
Climbing Helmets by Don Rolph
Which harness should I buy? [back
to top] [FAQ contents]
From: Brent McDaniel
My girlfriend has a Calidris and she likes it. I've worn in a couple of
times and it's pretty comfortable but it has some things that I don't
care for such as no haul loop and only 4 gear loops although I do like petzl's
autodoubleback buckles. I've got a Misty Mountain Threadworks quantum
that I really like. Very comfortable, 6 gear loops, belay and haul loop,
all that good stuff. It's a little pricey but, if you're looking at the
calidris, it should be in your price range.
From: Marc Andre Giasson
I've owned a Calidris for about a year now, and here are my thoughts:
It's nice not to have to double back, but it's not a really important
feature. It's not much faster than double backing the old-style
harnesses.
Gear loops are good. I would prefer that the rear ones would be a bit
more to the side (slightly more toward the front of the harness), but
it's about the same as any other harness I tried.
There's one bad thing on it, but I found it to be a *major* drawback.
(I'll try to describe it but it might seem complicate. E-mail me if
you'd like me to try to explain better.)
It's the elastic strap which goes from the leg loops to the back of the
harness, and the plastic clip that attaches the strap to the harness
proper. When I am on a hanging/semi-hanging belays or when I rap, (when
I lean on my harness for support) the elastic band extends a lot, so
it's like if the leg loops would go down, and the waist belt up, and I
end up not having much support at all. Also, the elastic strap under
tension pulls on the plastic clip, so that clip always ends up
unclipping. Then, there's nothing to hold the leg loops high, and you
always realize it when you're in an awkward position.
From: Dawn Alguard
What I like about my Petzl auto-double-back harness is being able
to adjust the fit without ever being unsafely not doubled back.
It's nice if you want to add or remove a layer mid-route. What I
don't like about my Petzl auto-double-back harness is the fear
that I'll forget to double back my other harness because the
habit isn't ingrained deeply enough.
From: Steven Cherry
I have the Gourou, the predecessor
to the Calidris (who was the greek goddess of mexican sushi and light
jazz, for those who were wondering), and a big wall harness (Yates
Shield). Things I like about each
Gourou
. auto-double-back, also 2 buckles so the tie-in is always centered
. though thin, it's fairly wide. comfortable for everything but
hanging belays
. great for ice - easy adjusting, light, doesn't absorb water, folds
into my winter helmet
. only comes in two sizes, I can lend to almost anyone and it will fit
. decent gear loops (I rack draws and put pro on a sling)
negatives - name and color
Yates
. mega padding, both thick and wide, great especially for those of
us climbing with a broken back
. lots of well-thought-out gear loops including hammer loop
. full-strength haul loop
negatives - bulky in the pack, heavy, belt is slick and hard to tie
with breath-gasping tightness
Ditto Dawn's fears about one auto-double-back harness and one not.
I triple-check myself when wearing the Yates.
From: Mark Heyman
I just replaced a Targa with a Vero. The Waist sizes listed by REI for
a medium are 28.5 to 33.5. I didn't see any sizing information on the
Arc'Teryx site. I have a 32" waist, and I wear it cinched up as tight as it
will go.So it just fits me, but certainly doesn't fit the expected range.
Overall it is a nicer harness though. It's almost as though my own personal
improvement list were implemented, even things just on my wish and not all
that important. Better form - wider in the back. Nice way of overlapping
ends of the waist belt. More comfortable material inside waist and legs.
Larger gear loops in front and smaller in back, haul loop. My Targa didn't
have one.
If your not being picky similar BD harnesses are available for almost half
the price making the Arc'Terx line seem pricey to me. Yet I bought one
anyway.
From: Julie Haas
I had a Countour for a while. It's a harness. It'd be fine.
Caveats: the buckle for dropping the leg loops is at the leg loop (instead
of at the waist) which can be uncomfortable to sit on at times. Also, as
noted by the gearreview guy, the gear loops are somewhat farther back than
in other harnesses. En fin, I found that the webbing at the leg loop buckle
ended up entering that buckle at strange angles, and so it seemed to frazzle
and get worn out pretty fast, comparatively. I was least happy about that.
The Arc Teryx harnesses seem to be popular, with good reason. I was going
to replace the Metolius with one, but then I found a Wild Things catalog.
Now I'm happy.
From: Greg Sadowy
I have the Contour Wide, which is o-so-cushy. As well as having lots of
padding, it has adjustable leg loops and rise, so it's pretty much
guaranteed to fit well. I'm very happy with it. However, you won't like
it if you are a gram-shaving weight weenie; it's on the heavy side.
From: Aya Kristen Alt
The metolius 3-D wide doesn't come in an XS, and the S is just ever so
slightly too big on me (and I'm by no means a small girl). *sigh*.
maybe they figure chicks don't need the extra padding or something.
From: Shilajit T Gangulee
re: the ArcTeryx Targa
I've found mine fine for long hanging belays, though i haven't taken any
big falls on it yet, so I can't attest to that. Although I think the leg
loops are a little on the small side throughout the sizes.
Special Needs:
Multi-season
From: Dave Condit
I found the Petzl Gourou to be excellent for a mult-ipurpose harness. The
padding is made of dense foam that does not absorb water (stay away from fleece
padding for winter climbing). It has adjustable leg loops and a very
adjustable waist, all very good for layering. In my experience, Petzl's
buckles are easier to adjust with gloves and/or frozen hands. The harness also
has dropable leg loops for a nice, easy crap.
I've used mine for gym, sport, trad, bigwall, alpine, and ice. There's
probably a better harness for any given use, but it does a pretty good job on
everything.
From: Kai Larson
Black Diamond Blizzard Harness.
Comfy enough for summer cragging, light enough for alpine. Adjustable
leg loops. A good all-around harness.
Cheap/simple/lightweight/alpine
From: Shabber
I like the fit & feel & cost of the Black Diamond Bod harness. It's
available everywhere.
Adjustable leg straps, padded waist, no dorky belay loop getting in the way,
and only $49.
I like mine :-)
From: Geoff Jennings
I've never actually worn the Alpine Bod, but I did use a Bod for my
frist year+ pf climbing, and after wearing a REI spire (also $49, at the time)
I couldn't believe I'd been wearing that piece of crap for a year. For the
same amount of money you can get WAY nicer harnesses. I'm AMAZED the Bod is as
popular as it is, and that poepl would actually choose either for anything
other than alpine stuff...
From: Robert Williams
I will agree that the
alpine bod is pretty damn uncomfy but I use it for alpine applications (go
figure) and have tons of soft clothing on under it. The Bod is not the most
comfy of rock harnesses--I would not want to do any hanging belays in it--but for
indoor climbing and sport cragging its a fine value.
From: Greg Kneser
I have a Bod and I love it. I've done hanging belays in it,
taken whippers in it, done trad, sport, TR, whatever. It's comfortable
for _me_.
From: Jim Cormier
For low cost try the Trango vertical or Singing Rock attack. Both are
very similar and feature padded waist and leg loops, fully
adjustable,have gear loops,....
Cost $40- $45
Guest/adjustable
From: Geoff Jennings
Most of the super-adjustable harnesses, sold for guides and schools are very
similar. I have the BD one, which I use for takinf folks out, and have been
pleased.
From: Alan Lindsay
If the still make it, the Advanced Base Camp (I think it's called the Guide
Harness) is ideal. Even more adjustable that the Black Diamond Bod.
It will fit someone as skinny as your arm or as large as you think the gear
will hold!
No padding or gear loops, it's simply three wide webs, buckles and a belay
loop.
From: Fritz Lowery
I'll second this. I've got one that my father, not a skinny man, wore
and so did a rather lightweight ex-girlfriend. Fully adjustable, with
belay loop, $25 or thereabouts.
From: Jim Cormier
I use the Advanced Base Camp Adjustable Guide harness for my clients and we
also sell them for starter packages and for schools and camps. They are a one
size fits all and very inexpensive $30 but unpadded and no gear loops.
Another good one is the Trango Cosmic which is one size fits all and has a
gear loop but costs $37.50.
From: Aya Kristen Alt
I believe that the Petzl Club now comes with a single gear loop (and no
doubling back the buckles to deal with, to boot.) I don't remember if the BD
Vario had gear loops at all, but it's very similar to the Club, with one
exception - the combo loop says very prominently, TIE IN HERE. I always got a
kick out of that :)
From: Greg Daughtry
The ABC harness is good.
Misty Mountain Threadworks also makes the Fudge, which is another very cheap
FULLY adjustable harness.
The bod would not be a good choice to fit the 100lb-250lb range.
Back problems
From: David Kreindler
My usual partner suffers from lower-back pain and found happiness with a
Petzl Corax. She did some hang testing in a Calydris too but found that
the Corax was more comfortable for her back -- presumably due to the
single wide swami instead of the double narrow swami.
Pregnancy
From: Don Rolph
I do know that Patty Crowther climbed (leading if I am not mistaken) well
into her pregnancy (8 1/2 months comes to mind, but this is a long way
back). I believe she used a chest harness.
From: Clint Cummins
My wife used an old (large-sized) Whillans sit harness.
Checking over my old trip reports I see she was still climbing at 7 months (fairly large at that point)
(2 months before our first child).
See also:
Climbing Harness Field Test by John Walter
Buying Rock Climbing Gear: Page 1 2
Most of the information in this FAQ was originally posted on rec.climbing. If you would prefer to have something attributed to you removed from this FAQ, please contact us. |
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