Should I add Hybrid Aliens (offset Aliens) to my rack? [back to top] [FAQ contents]

From: Ed Huckle, 2/23/2000

I've climbed upwards of 200 routes at Josh (which isn't much really) and I have never needed an offset cam, not once. And, believe me, I really sew things up sometimes. I am often known as "Mr. Thunder Rack" and even I wouldn't be seen with offsets on my trad rack. I have thought about offsets for Yosemite wall climbing but if you are trad climbing at Josh don't bother.

From: Rex Pieper, 2/20/2000

Ok folks, any opinions on which you prefer: The CCH Alien Hybrids or the Wild Country Offsets?

Both. They both are great. However, the sizes covered by the CCH Alien Hybrids are better suited for protecting pin scars than their WC counter- parts due to a smaller cam head width. But the Aliens only go up to the Yellow/Red combo. Above that, the WC Offsets are great, especially the #1.5 (light blue). I use that cam all the time on walls these days.

Since you moved to Josh w/ its numerous flaring granite cracks, I'd recommend you look into a bunch of WC offsets in the 1.5 and larger sizes. They'd be great for free climbing at Josh. (I can only lust after the full set right now)

But, if adding to that aid rack of yours is your first priority, get all the Aliens, then gradually move up the WC line as you can afford it.

From: Clyde Soles, 2/23/2000

I agree with Rex, who also has used offsets btw, and find they are a very nice improvement. For JT, Vedauwoo and a host of other climbing areas (but not Canyonlands or Devil's Tower),the WC offsets would be my primary pro and regular cams the fill-ins on the rack.

Do you "need" them for trad routes? Definitely not (you don't need Friends for that matter). But after using the offsets, I too wish I could afford more -- they're much more vesatile than the naysayers think. Also agree with Rex that offset Aliens are the better choice for smaller cracks and aid.

From: Ben Craft, 2/23/2000

I own a full set of offset alians and 2 sizes of the offset friends. I've used both at Josh, Red Rocks, and the Valley. The alians are a definate for aid climbers, but a waste for free climbers.

From: Brent Ware, 10/17/2000

My standard rack (depending, as always, on what I'm climbing and where) used to be a set of Camalots and a set of HB Quadcams, which as with the Friends, cover slightly overlapping size ranges. Recently, it has begun to include the offset Aliens (black-blue (scary) through yellow-green) and offset Tech Friends up to .75 Camalot size, instead of the HBs, much as the Aliens gradually edged out the micro HBs and TCUs which sit forlorn in my gear bin now. I find that, in the places I climb, I end up placing, and singing the praises of (literally), the offset SLCDs and offset HB nuts. There always seems to be a placement where the offsets work better, and at least are no worse.

I might rethink this strategy for a trip to Indian Creek, but most other places they work fine.

From: Robert Fonda, 6/26/2001

The offset aliens are my personal favorite. You can get them into places where most gear just won't work. Period. I do use them on my trad rack, in fact they work very well for free climbing, but I really love them for aid.

From: x15x15, 1/4/2001

There are times when I wished I had my Offsets, but I have not backed off of a climb for not having them. Therefor I never saw the need to buy a bunch.

From: Justin Shields, 4/28/2000

I have the yellow/green and the blue/black and find them most useful. I actually bought them by accident and didn't realize the mistake until I had already brought them home. But they turned out to be a godsend. This is probably common knowledge, but they work awesome in pin-scars. I took a pretty good wipper on one last weekend on the mantle move on the nutcracker and the thing didn't budge at all. Awesome piece of gear in my book.

From: Eric Coomer, 3/26/1998

For what it's worth, I talked with Chris Trudeau(the guy who did the "review" of the hybrids for Climbing rag) right after he tested the units out on El Cap. His real-life review was way better than the review in the magazine. He raved about the units. Of course, you must realize that these are highly specialized pieces of gear. They are specifically for flaring pin scars. I wouldn't bother with them if you aren't doing a whole lot of aiding. Stick to the regular cams.

From: Matthew Buckle, 2/12/2001

from my brief time in yosemite last fall I learned just how amazing aliens are, especially the hybrid aliens in pin scars. On routes like the prow which are full of fin scarred seams, the hybrids come are extremely useful.

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