Something old, mostly new

This weekend Steve and I went up to New Hampshire and spent a day looking at real estate, a day at Cathedral, and a day at Whitehorse Ledges. Aside from Funhouse, it was all new climbing at Cathedral and I’d never been to Whitehorse at all.

Climbing-wise I didn’t do anything spectacular. The high point was making it up the second (very short but annoyingly hard) pitch of Pooh with a lot of encouragement and emotional hand-holding from Steve. The low point was backing off a slab route at Whitehorse so Steve could take over. My head wasn’t in the slab game this weekend.

More to the point was a relaxing weekend with Steve: a romantic hideaway at the base of Cathedral, lots of good ethnic food, some swimming, the Red Sox, and more than I needed to know about multi-family homes in Manchester. You could wish for all weekends to be like this one.

Route names at Whitehorse are a bit of a guess. You can’t find any two topos or people who agree. The thing we thought was called Man’s Best Friend was probably the hardest and the thing we thought was called Echo was definitely the easiest. And we’re pretty sure about Ladies and Gentlment because it’s kind of obvious.

Sunday at Cathedral:
Funhouse, 5.7 (P1: Steve, P2: Dawn)
Black Lung, 5.8 (Steve)
Upper Refuse, 5.5 (P2 & 3: Dawn)
Pooh, 5.8+ (P1: Steve, P2 & 3: Dawn)

Monday at Whitehorse Ledges:
Ladies and Gentlemen, 5.8 (Steve)
Circle of Life, 5.9 (Steve)
Echo, 5.6 (Dawn)
Man’s Best Friend, 5.8 (Steve)

This is why I don’t climb with my boyfriend

“This is why I don’t climb with my boyfriend,” I accused him. Steve, standing patiently below me, hadn’t done anything but hold the rope and make suggestions.

I was feeling stuck and scared. I had three pieces in, at least one of which I felt good about, but I didn’t want to be here. Someone had been hurt here, and not just someone, but someone I knew. And Steve had had to tell me so before I started up. But the route was 5.7 and supposedly more “pleasant” than “interesting” (in his friend Alex’s words), so the surge of fear I felt once I’d gotten the crux gear in and tried to make the move was unexpected.

“I don’t want to do this,” I told him. So he innocently offered to take over and I walloped him with all the history of my lead head misery: this is why I don’t climb with my boyfriend.

It’s all on me. I knew that with Todd and I know it with Steve. But it’s a trick my head plays only when I’m climbing with someone I’m that emotionally tangled up with. I both want Steve to take over (rescue me!) and couldn’t bear it if he did (I don’t need rescuing!). I climb better when rescue isn’t an option. Then my head settles down and I do what needs to be done. Sometimes retreat may be what needs to be done, but if I plan and execute my own retreat, it doesn’t carry that same shame.

“I don’t want to die,” I whined pitifully, scaring the people next to us more than either myself or Steve. There was no chance I’d die. “I don’t want to break my back either,” I whined more realistically. That was what my friend’s son had done, but it still wasn’t what I was likely to do. Steve pointed out the realities of the situation; I made the move; life was beautiful at the top. Still, there was no need for all of that. And that’s why I don’t climb with my boyfriend.

Coming over the top, Steve looked no older than twenty-five and for a sudden, heart-breaking moment I wanted so much for it to be true, for he and I to be twenty-five and have a lifetime of exploring and improving ahead of us. Sometimes I feel like I’m only now getting a grip on life, only now learning how to make the most of it. How many years left? I’m thankful to the people leading the way–like my friends Dan and Jim who haven’t stopped getting better or the 50-year-old guy who beat Steve in Vermont. I figure we’ve got at least that long, and I know we won’t waste the years.

Cemetery Vault, 5.7 (Steve)
Vortex, 5.8 (Dawn)
Juniper Wall, 5.7 (Dawn)

Short but Sweet

Two pitches into the day, it started to rain. It could have been a waste of time. Instead it was a day to savor.

The idea was for me to lead Proctoscope. Since it’s 9+ and I was only on it once so long ago that I remember nothing about it, that would have been a good lead. To warm up, we decided to start with Steve leading Hans Puss, a 5.7 in the area.

When we walked up to it, we found someone leading Feast of Fools. This is unusual in itself, but, even more unusually, he went on to lead the second pitch. I’ve been on Feast of Fools lots, but always on toprope and never on the second pitch. I’ve vaguely considered that I could lead it. I know people who have led it. But it’s not a gimme 10 (do they make those?) and I certainly wasn’t considering the second pitch which was a complete unknown.

But Steve is more inclined to go up than to come down, so I joined him at the fixed anchor that’s shared by Hans Puss, Proctoscope, and Feast of Fools. The second pitch of Hans Puss is non-obvious and the second pitch of Proctoscope is dirty and unappealing. The second pitch of Feast of Fools didn’t looks so bad. The second from the party above us had made it through the crux and Steve said she hadn’t struggled much. She had struggled on the first pitch, so this told me the second pitch was easier. The crux seemed short–just a couple moves in a somewhat blank corner–and it looked like I’d have gear to start the sequence.

And that’s how I came to onsight what is only my second 5.10 at the Gunks. If I hadn’t been so far above a brass nut, it might not have happened. But I stepped up to check things out, got committed, and kept moving in search of the stance-to-come. Turned out the corner was a few moves longer than the a few moves.

Often after an ego-swelling climb like that I jokingly announce that “we can go home now.” Never has the joke come more immediately true. No sooner had we de-racked after hitting the ground than the deluge began. We cowered into the Hans Puss corner for thirty minutes watching and listening to the stranded climbers. Above us was someone safe but soaked, screaming obscenities as he tried to recover all his gear on a slanting lower. On the other side was a woman leading the first pitch of something on the right side of the Arrow wall. Her situation looked much more dire (none of those first pitches are rolling in gear), but she held it together.

I hope everyone got down OK. As for me, I had a good day. Short, but sweet.

Hans Puss P1, 5.7 (Steve)
Feast of Fools P2, 10a (Dawn)

A couple of nice days

A couple of nice days, hot but not too muggy and cooler in the shade. I don’t have much to say about them because they were easy going with low trauma. Steve had his first day back on rock in months and was already leading the first pitch of Airy Aria, a route that scares me even on good days.

On Sunday we had a short afternoon at Main Cliff at Ragged Mountain. I hadn’t led much in Connecticut before (a few routes at Pinnacle, which seems different from other Traprock areas), so getting on a couple of routes there was a new adventure. All together is was two nice days with one nice guy.

Friday:
City Lights, 5.7 (P1 & 2: Dawn)
Maria, 5.6 (P2: Steve, P3: Dawn)
Airy Aria, 5.8 (P1: Steve, P2 & 3: Dawn)
Erect Direction P1, 5.8 (Dawn)

Sunday:
Broadway, 5.8 (Dawn)
Wiessner’s Slab, 5.3 (Steve)
Wiessner’s Crack, 5.8+ (Dawn)

CREWED

Another “not a climbing post” post. Sorry. But this weekend was an amazing adventure and I have to get it down on paper somewhere. On Saturday I crewed for Steve at the 2008 Vermont 100. I’d never crewed an ultra-marathon before, so I didn’t know what to expect. A friend summarized CREW as “Cranky Runner, Endless Waiting” which is pretty accurate, but I’m going to extend it to CREWED: Cranky Runner, Endless Waiting, Excellent Day.

Camp 10 Bear scare
We made it to the first couple of aid stations without incident. It was a long ways to the first one for the runners, so there was no hurry for us. The second one was a short drive, taking us for the second time past a store that now, at 7:00 am, was open. We stopped and got coffee and ice for the coolers. I bet they had to stock a lot of ice to make it through that weekend.

At the first aid station we were surprised to find Steve already out front, perhaps in 20th place, and by the second he’d moved up to somewhere around 14th. His split times were close to what he’d been hoping and he was taking in a lot of calories. All was looking good.

We packed up leisurely at Stage Road and got in the cars to head to the next aid station. I checked where he was against our list of split times to gauge how long we had. It was only 40 minutes. This was a short one. Then I checked the directions to the next station. They said the minimum driving time was 40 minutes. The driving times were proving to be overly cautious, but still. We were going to have to boogey if we weren’t going to miss him.

While Robert drove, I crawled into the back of the car and frantically tried to figure out how to break through to the trunk. Once in the trunk I started mixing drinks and replenishing the “go bag” as Robert careened around corners. We went past a handler marker that seemed to be pointing the opposite way from what the printed directions were saying, so we split our party into two with one car following each possible line. In a cloud of dust, Robert and I arrived at the aid station first. I took off running, a small cooler in my arms and the “go bag” over my shoulder, dropping things as I ran. Arriving breathless at the aid station I found myself curiously alone.

“Did the runners come through yet?” I panted. No. And they weren’t expected any time soon either. Pawing through the paperwork, I realized we’d missed an aid station. We were at Camp 10 Bear, which was the next station on the driving directions, but the split time I’d been going by was from something called Route 12. Slowly I came to accept the fact that Route 12 had been a station with handler access two years ago when Steve last ran VT 100, but that it was now a non-handler aid station. We all took a deep breath and realized we’d raced like madmen to get to an aid station we’d be spending the next three hours at. Later, Steve complained that we’d missed an aid station. I’m not sure he believes me either.

This was our longest, most casual break of the day. We ate lunch and had a chance for some rest and recreation. I did a crossword puzzle and took a walk. Tara had a nap. We had a nice spot in the shade but it wasn’t on Steve’s path, so eventually we gave it up and moved to a more convenient place in the sun. It was midday and getting brutally hot. When Steve came in, he looked and felt like death. It was his first weigh-in and when one of the medical team walked him over to us, we expected the worst. Indeed, Steve had almost dropped enough weight to be yanked for observation, but the medical staff was more worried about the freckles on his back. They wanted us to put more sunscreen on him, which his mother made absolutely certain of.

Steve was miserable. He’d been vomiting and he felt like he was running badly. We tried to tell him he was 12th but he didn’t seem to believe us. He talked about quitting and hoped his other daughter Jamie would catch up with us in time to see him run. As he left Camp 10 Bear for the first time, I wondered if we’d be back there a second time.

It seems like the scale must have been off because when he did make it back to Camp 10 Bear and weighed in again he’d mysteriously re-gained all the weight he’d supposedly lost. Or he might have been wearing five pounds of wet clothing since it’d been pouring for the last 20 minutes. Either way. As he stood over the scale, I heard the medic say “One hundred thirty . . . ” before moving in for a closer look. It didn’t matter. One hundred and thirty anything was enough to keep him above the five percent weight loss limit. “Five,” the medic finished. When Steve said, “Thank God,” I knew his heart was still in the race. He didn’t want to be yanked. And now that Kevin was joining him as a pacer, the dark days of Camp 10 Bear were behind us.

Making friends and moving up
For a long time Steve was stuck in 11th or 12th place. I knew he’d be bummed to not finish in the top 10, but everyone in front of him looked strong and he wasn’t catching up. Although a few people came and went without our getting to know them, there was a group of runners ranging from 5th to 12th who became familiar to us through their crews.

There was Ryan Thomas whose crew were a couple of young men wearing homemade “Team Thomas” tank tops. Ryan came into every aid station with a smile and was actually able to eat a pizza at the first Camp 10 Bear aid station. The last I saw him he was balancing on one foot while changing shoes at Margaritaville. Brian was another fixture who later drifted out of sight. Coming into Tracer Brook, Steve told me, “That guy’s keeping me in the race.” Devon was the lead woman runner, so she really stood out. Her handler Linda was absorbed into our large, loud group as the race went on and our runners got closer. Those were the teams we knew well whose runners Steve eventually beat.


Steve running with Brian

On the other hand were the runners who pulled away. Matt, who drank nothing but Coke and whose handlers were wearing “Mom & Meerkat” t-shirts, made an impressive run at the end to somehow come in 4th. He must have really been moving while everyone else was dragging to have pulled that off. Then there was “that guy’s son” who turned out to be an ultra-running legend named Joe Kulak. Actually, we knew his name was Joe Kulak. We just didn’t know he was a legend. Joe’s father was a friendly, steady presence for a long time.

Our runner was known as “your Dad.” Steve’s relationship to our vast group was varied. He was someone’s brother, someone’s boyfriend, and someone’s best friend. He had parents and children and cousins there. But his biggest cheerleader was his daughter Tara whose whoops of “Go Dad!” were so enthusiastically pervasive that people would call Steve “your Dad” to his own mother.

Crewing would be a lot less fun without that shared camaraderie with other crews. We all cheered for each other’s runners. To survive a hundred mile race is a victory in itself, and to that end the runners were competing against the course and the conditions, not each other. But as you get down to the wire, when the chance of placing is there, you start to care. And in the midst of your celebration you realize your joy is another crew’s sorrow. We wanted Devon and Ryan and Brian and Matt and Joe to do well. Just maybe a little less well than Steve.

The watermelon fairy only comes to boys and girls who don’t complain about their watermelon
Steve’s nemesis for these long races is his stomach. His legs’ll keep going forever but his stomach wants to quit. When he ran the VT 100 two years ago, his salvation was oranges. Unfortunately, there’s nothing magic about oranges and despite a steady stream of them, his stomach started acting up again. So then we changed to grapes. Grapes got him through a few aid stations but pretty soon he was retching again and grapes elicited the same pained “no” that everything else did.

Up until that point we’d been feeding him from our own supplies, but he’d no longer eat anything we had with us. So we started foraging at the aid stations. Steve’s mother hit on the idea of watermelon, and indeed it was a hit. Until we got to West Wind and they didn’t have watermelon.


Shoes and watermelon at Margaritaville

“You don’t understand,” I told the volunteers there. “Our runner hasn’t eaten anything but watermelon for 30 miles.” Regardless, they didn’t have any watermelon. Then one of Brian’s crew said he thought they had some watermelon. He walked a few minutes back to his car and brought us their last chunks of watermelon, a truly generous act.

At the next aid station, Bill’s, they didn’t have watermelon either. Once again we were milling about trying to figure out what to do when the watermelon fairy appeared, this time in the form of Steve’s cousins who were bringing dinner for the crew. They’d brought sandwiches and –huzzah!– a fruit salad. The fruit salad was separated into piles of watermelon, honeydew melon, and cantaloupe (in descending order of how likely he was to eat it) and placed off limits.

After Steve got weighed in, we handed him the cup of scavenged watermelon chunks. “Why are you cutting it up?” he asked mournfully, as though we spent our downtime thinking up ways to torture him. Like that time we put sunscreen on him. Or when we offered him a dry shirt. “It’s the only way we can get it,” we told him, not having the heart to add that unless the watermelon fairy showed up again he was going to be out of luck at the next aid station.


Torturing Steve in dastardly ways

The next aid station was also the last and it also didn’t have watermelon. We know because we asked. By which I mean that I asked and his mother asked and his cousin asked. We asked the people manning the aid station and the official truck that stopped by and anyone within earshot. But no watermelon fairy came.

Taking stock of our options and noting that he only had another four and a half miles to run, I decreed that we’d offer him Green Magma. But we never even got the chance. Not seeing watermelon in our hands, he walked straight to the aid station and innocently asked them, “Do you have any watermelon?” I don’t know how they stopped themselves from laughing. Or hitting him with whatever was handy. But they simply said no, and Steve wandered away again without eating a thing.

Out of our dreams and into our arms
Steve, Devon, Barry* and their respective pacers had been running in 7th, 8th, and 9th place for a couple of aid stations. At the second to last aid station, Steve left in 8th. At the last station, Brian’s mother told us that while driving over she’d seen Steve pushing hard to get past Barry, that she thought Steve was going to take him.

By then it was dark and a fog was rolling in. It was a medium-long wait at Polly’s and the runners were taking longer than expected. Polly’s was also an aid station for the horses who were having their own 100 mile race. Their handlers all drove monster pick-up trucks that would loom out of the darkness stirring up dust into the already thick air and blocking our view down the long, dark road. Finally we started seeing lights coming. But time after time it was horses who materialized beneath the lights, not runners. Based on Brian’s mother’s testimony, we were hoping to see Steve first, but when the first non-equine appeared, it was Barry. And the next one was Devon.

Steve wasn’t far behind Devon but he seemed despondent and only semi-coherent. “He only said one thing,” Tara reported when she came back from jogging the first hundred feet with them. “He said: ‘Just tell me how much farther I have to go? How much farther?'” You can’t hear Tara’s eerily accurate mimicry of the tone of voice Steve had been exclusively using for the last fifty miles, but imagine something like “How long, O Lord, how long?”

Barry didn’t linger long at this aid station–he was out before Steve was in. With only four and a half miles to go before the finish, and believing that Steve had made his move but hadn’t been able to sustain it, we resigned ourselves to 9th place. 9th place was fine. 9th place was great even. But for a moment there . . .

The fog at the finish line was even deeper than it had been at Polly’s. Only one horse crossed while we were waiting and it appeared so suddenly out of the mist that it almost bowled someone over. The same three crews were assembled again and it had all been said and done. No plans to make this time: no strategy to review, no gear to assemble, no bottles to refill. Nothing to do but wait.


A foggy finish line

I was pacing and rambling, checking my watch every 30 seconds, hoping, as we all were, that they’d be faster than expected but knowing, as we all did, that they’d be slower. At 10:27 I said that, realistically, this was the earliest we could have expected them, though we’d been straining to see through the fog for 15 minutes already. Within minutes we heard a yell and saw lights. One of the volunteers called out and a muffled answer came back. Barry.**

Of course Barry was who we expected. We all applauded, or tried to. Then, in one of the most heart-stoppingly exciting moments of my life, the twin beams of light resolved themselves into Steve and Kevin only yards from the finish line. Polite applause became screeching pandemonium. In an instant I stopped being Steve’s crew chief and became his girlfriend. I made a beeline for him, nearly knocking him over as I screamed “You did it! You did it!” repeatedly into his ear. He probably thought I meant “You ran 100 miles” but what I really meant was, “You passed Devon and Barry.”

I’ll never know where they found that last burst of energy or why it should matter so much whether he was 7th or 9th when only two minutes (over a period of eighteen and a half hours) separated them. I only know it was an unbelievably proud and satisfying moment. For all of us.


Most of the crew at Bill’s

——–
* Barry’s name turned out to be Perry but Barry was what we called him all day so it’s how I’ll always think of him.

** What actually happened was that Kevin answered “Pretty Boy” (Steve’s nickname) but all we heard was the y sound at the end.
——–

Steve’s race report

Crew tips for ultra-marathons
Bring chairs and stuff to do. There’s a lot of hurry up and wait.

Parking lots aren’t always right next to aid stations. You’ll want a “go bag” or small cooler or both that can be easily toted. I saw one person with a luggage cart, which is genius.

If you have some way to get split times for the race from someone who ran it in approximately the time your runner is planning on, it’ll be hugely helpful. You can’t predict how long a leg will take based on the mileage. It depends on how steep and technical the terrain is and how long into the race it is.

Plan ahead for food for the crew (don’t expect fast food drive thru’s along your route). Go to the bathroom and eat and drink when you have a chance. Put sunscreen on yourself. You’re important too.

You’re not a pit crew but speed matters. Steve passed several runners at aid stations by coming in behind them and leaving before them. Sometimes a person who’s had a longer break can make it up, but sometimes they can’t. Be efficient.

Talk to your runner ahead of time and make sure you know: what is to be swapped at every station (e.g. water bottle filled with sport drink, salt pills); what is to be easily available at every station (e.g. sunscreen, hat); and what special items might be needed at which specific aid stations (e.g. change of shoes at Margaritaville, headlamp at Bill’s).

Don’t forget the pacer. Poor pacers get no respect despite running farther than most of us ever have. Talk to them ahead of time too and make sure you not only know what they’ll need but who’s supposed to be providing it. Our pacer had brought his own sports drink but hadn’t brought any water bottles and we had some fast re-arranging to do.

Crewing is slow and has its boring moments (interspersed with frantic activity). Having friends helps. Making friends works too. Everyone there is in the same boat you are, so reach out. In retrospect, we should have gotten to know Barry’s crew better. It might have made us less attached to the order they finished in and at least we’d have learned that his name was really Perry.

Farley Ledges

I’ve never been to Farley, which access has been opening up to thanks to the Western Massachusetts Climber’s Association. Todd, Romy, Miriam and I made a trip there this Sunday. Luckily Al, a friend of a friend who knows quite a bit about Farley, met us there. I don’t know the names of anything we did except a couple of the sport climbs.

We started at Zen Garden and I led a supposed 5.8 gear route near the left end. Then Todd led a supposed 5.10 mixed route to the right of that (hard moves past a low bolt, easier trad section, crux bolt near top). Then I led a supposed 5.9 that went up a flake. That was a lot of fun. Then Todd led a supposed 5.10 mixed route on the right end. The second bolt was a spinner and Todd said the nut almost came off in his hand, so he was glad to get some gear in too. You can make that route harder or easier by using more or less of a huge chockstone in a gully to the right. I tried to be as pure as possible and it was extremely tenuous and technical that way.

Lastly, Todd and I walked over to the Main Wall (which I’ve also seen described as the Amphitheatre) which is above where the new parking lot will go. We did a couple of 5.10 sport routes there that were excellent–sustained and clean. Stinger was particularly memorable as you feel like you’re going to die for every inch of the first two bolts (or if you had a stick bolt you could stickclip the second bolt and bump the fear factor down to zero).

I don’t know if I’d go back to Farley for the trad which was a little dirty, a little short, and only a half hour closer than the Gunks, but it’s certainly the closest sport climbing around.

Trad 5.8 (Dawn)
Mixed 5.10 (Todd)
Trad 5.9 (Dawn)
Mixed 5.10 (Todd)
Stinger 5.10c/d
Lady Buggary 5.10a

A Seven Too Far

The day didn’t start out well. Packing up in the cloud-covered steambath of a parking lot, I was talking to Steven about Miriam’s soggy shoes when Steven said, “That’s funny. Where are my shoes. So Miriam at least had one pair of climbing shoes with her. Steven had none. On the other hand, Steven’s offer to follow in his approach shoes was more viable. He wears approach shoes designed to be climbed in and climbs–even leads–in them somewhat regularly. He figured he could follow up to 5.7, maybe 5.8, and I figured I couldn’t lead much harder than that given the steamy conditions anyway, so we set out.

If I was going to stick to easier stuff, I wanted to stick to new stuff. Last weekend I discovered that there weren’t any starred routes in the sub-5.8 range left for me to do, so I asked Steven for his advice. On the plus side, he knows almost every route at the Gunks by heart. On the minus side, he’s likely to describe a slabby, tree-clogged moss-fest as “worth doing.”

We started on Snake, which I remember almost nothing about except that by the top I didn’t feel well. I must have gotten overheated, which is extreme considering it was the first route of the day and only 10:00 in the morning. We’d considered doing Thin Slabs Direct as a finish but I didn’t feel up to it so Steven traversed over to the Three Doves/Annie Oh anchor. By the time I joined him there I was starting to feel better thanks to rest and water and I felt up to leading the second pitch of Annie Oh. I always forget about that thin section and I guess Steven did too, but despite our respective handicaps–my stomach and his shoes–we both made a clean if not speedy ascent.

Thinking of Thin Slabs Direct reminded me that I’d never done Thin Slabs. I’d done the Direct pitch and I’d done the alternate pitch but I’d never done the real pitch. I knew this by the fact that there’s a bolt on it. I never forget a bolt. Funny thing about that bolt is that by the time you clip it the route is over. I shook and worried my way up to it (my stomach having established a pattern of churning while I climbed and settling while I sat) but needn’t have worried about the supposed 5.5R slab above it. It was more like 5.2 ladder climbing.

It was starting to sprinkle so we walked back towards the Uberfall to give the weather a chance to make up its mind and to get ourselves closer to the car. The weather deferred a decision so I decided on CC route, another 5.7 I’d never been on. That one turned out to be pretty easy with some fun laybacking off jugs at the top and the biggest ring you’ll ever clip to protect the topout.

My stomach was feeling better but the sky was continuing to grumble so we moved even closer to the car. To route #1 in fact. OK, it’s route #2 in the Swain guide because the girdle traverse comes first, but it’s technically the first vertical Trapps route. It’s called Short But Simple and it’s rated 5.7+.

“This is 5.7+,” I reminded Steven before casting off, “which means there’s a non-trivial move up there somewhere.” Climb an arete to a ledge and then a crack above it. The crux, Swain told us, was in the crack. It was hard to imagine anything too cruxy in a 5.7 vertical crack but I take the plus pretty seriously.

I climbed in the area of an arete (more to the right of it than on it). I arrived at a ledge. I saw a diaganol crack. I couldn’t climb it, but I saw it. There was a horizontal just out of reach and a seam/fault slanting diagonally up and right to another horizontal. I tried to the left. I tried to the right. I finessed my way up to the starting holds. I jumped for the starting holds. I ripped a hole in my hand. I walked off to the right, set a top rope, and tried again on the lower. I think I can imagine how this move would go: heel hook left foot, pull right hand down to chin, change right hand to mantle, reach left hand up to next horizontal. If the rain hadn’t been threatening I could’ve done it. After a few tries, on toprope, at 5.10.

Steven took a few stabs at it in the worsening rain. He could reach the starting holds but that didn’t help much. He tried to the left, he tried to the right. I think you’d really want rock shoes, dry rock, and some time to figure it out.

That 7+ grade at the Gunks. I should know better by now.

with Steven, I led all:
Snake, 5.7-
Annie Oh, P2, 5.8
Thin Slabs, 5.7-
CC Route, 5.7
Short But Simple, 5.7+

Briefly

On Sunday Miriam and I had what Steve would call an adventure. Desperate to climb after weeks without, I ignored the forecast and drove up anyway. It wasn’t raining when we got there and the sky was uniformly overcast in a way that suggested it could easily stay that way all day.

I wanted to do something new, so I searched for the guidebook for a 5.7 with stars I hadn’t been on. There weren’t any 7’s, 7+’s or 8-‘s with stars I hadn’t done except at Skytop or Millbrook or with PG-13 or worse ratings. I guess I’ve gotten around a little better than I realized. So I ended up on the closest 6+ with stars I hadn’t done: Raubenheimer’s Special. It’s right off the Uberfall. I imagine the reasons I haven’t done it before are twofold: it’s always busy, and it’s a 5.6. Well, Sunday wasn’t exactly crowded, so we found it free.

I was paused below the crux, a little unclear on whether I was at the crux of a 6+ or completely off-route, when a guide came up and offered me beta. I asked him to confirm that I was on the 6+ and he said it was more of a 7. It didn’t seem like the time to brag about the 10s I’ve led, so I took the beta and made the improbably balancey move. After the move it took some breathless jiggling to get to a spot where I could reach holds and place gear. That’s a necky 5.6.

As I was lowering off, the guide (now already atop Betty) was conferring with his clients about whether they should stay or go. A drop had fallen, perhaps two. I figured it could go on like that for hours and maybe never rain at all. I was wrong. Within moments of my hitting the ground, before the shoes were even off, it was pouring. Poor Miriam climbed through ever-worsening conditions to the crux where we pulled her through using a combination of finesse (hers) and brute force (mine). She finished and cleaned the anchor as quickly as she could and we took a soggy walk back to the car.

Then we did what climbers have historically done when it rains: we hiked. We walked to Split Rock and from there to Lost City. At Lost City the rock was inexplicably dry. If we’d had gear, we could have climbed. Lost City Crack looked great. We hiked happily back, thinking we had some more climbing ahead of us, but as we went along reality started to set in. The rock was dry but our gear was soaked. Miriam’s shoes and harness especially wouldn’t be wearable again for days.

After trying to sun dry our shoes in the rear window of the car while we ate lunch, we finally gave up and headed home. If we hadn’t gotten so wet we probably could have snuck a couple more pitches in that afternoon. On the other hand, it started raining almost as soon as we left, so perhaps we only missed the chance to get wet for a second time.

with Miriam:
Raubenheimer’s Special, 5.6+ (Dawn)

Running gently downhill

There are times when you’re running along–tired, discouraged, somewhat pained–and the running suddenly seems easier. Your breathing slows and your stride lengthens. You think to yourself: I’m getting my second wind; all that training is finally paying off; I feel better than I expected. If you turned around at one of those moments and looked back at the way you’d come, you’d probably discover that you’re running gently downhill.

Conversely, there are stretches when it just seems like work, when you’re wondering why you feel so tired, so sore; why it’s so hard; if you’re ever going to get any better. At those moments, if you could see the path behind you, you might find that it trends ever so slightly uphill.

Running gently downhill is more fun than running slightly uphill. It feels better. But it’s not training. It doesn’t make you stronger or faster or build your endurance. It only feels good in the moment because we mistakenly ascribe our unexpected fleetness to our own ability instead of to the road’s accommodation. Given the inevitability of entropy, most particularly with regards to our aging bodies, we need to be running slightly uphill just to maintain. To improve, we need to be running hills steep enough that we notice them.

With climbing, it’s harder to turn around and see where you came from. Are you laboring up hills or coasting down them? Sometimes you find yourself repeating familiar routes. Hard and scary once, they feel easier with each ascent. Your brain tells you that you’re getting stronger/faster/better. But your body’s not improving; your body’s running gently downhill. It’s those low-efficiency days–when you spend hours doing a single pitch, when none of the gear goes in straight, when you can’t find the start of the route or the nearest rap station or the “obvious corner,” when you can’t get off the ground or through the crux or to the crux–those are the days you’re improving.

All I wanted this season was to hold it together. I knew that between school and life’s usual obligations I wouldn’t be able to get as much climbing in this year as last. I didn’t expect to progress. I just wanted to hold on. Already it’s clear that that’s not going to work.

So Sunday I stepped it up. I made a big, ugly mess out of trying to lead The Dangler, but I didn’t let that stop me from trying to lead the 5.10 variation to Land Ho! Because a season full of the same old 9s is going to cement me in moderate-ville. The only way I’m going to maintain what I worked so hard to achieve last year is to try to top it. I don’t have to succeed in topping it, but I have to try.

with Steven:
Jane, 5.7+ (Steven)
Something Interesting, 5.7+ (Steven)
Dangler/Three Pines P3 (Dawn/Steven)
Birdie Party P1, 5.8 (Dawn)
Land Ho! V1, 5.10 (Dawn)

Good is what we call it

There’s no climbing in this post. Unless, for some reason, you want to hear more than I want to tell about what it took to get me out of bed Monday morning. Although I’m a climber who runs, not a runner, not even a runner who climbs, lately I’ve been doing more running than climbing. Sunday was the culmination of that reversal.

I’ve done a few road races, mostly half marathons, but an ultra-marathon trail race calls for a different mindset. An ultra is not about style–it’s about survival. “At this point, I just want to finish,” some guy said to me at around four hours and forty-five minutes. “No duh,” I would have answered, if I’d had that kind of energy.

The first thing I had to learn about running a trail race was that it was going to take a lot longer than I thought. Although I’ve never run a marathon, I optimistically believe I could do one in under four hours. The 50K I was running was only five miles longer than a marathon. I worked that out to be 4 1/2 hours. (My math is as weak as my dreams are big.) The first clue that I was off by a little was the results from previous years. If I finished in 4:30 I was going to win. Even for my inflated ego, that seemed unlikely. The second clue was the incredulous look on Steve’s face. He gently readjusted my expectations to six hours.

Six hours??? How on God’s green earth was I going to run for six hours straight? Now for the second lesson: I wasn’t. Steve started teaching me about walking the hills, and boy did I enjoy that. At least, once I got over the guilt. At first I felt terribly like I was “cheating.” My goals for my first half marathon had been a) to finish and b) to run the whole the race. Now for my first ultra-marathon I was planning ahead to fail.

The day after the race a friend asked me if I finished and I said, “sure.” Then she asked if I ran the whole thing and I laughed and said, “no.” I can’t spell the noise she made, but it’s that drawn out, sympathetic “oh/aw” sound that comes right before “what a shame.” I didn’t mind. Now I knew better. At an ultra-marathon, everyone is walking the hills: it’s just a question of what you call a hill. And, as I told Steve afterwards, there were a lot more hills on that second lap.

I didn’t just walk the hills. There were places where I flat out walked. And there were places where I ran because if I didn’t I was going to be taking a 50 kilometer hike. I didn’t run negative splits. I didn’t finish strong. I ran the last mile because I was afraid Steve was going to lap me, except for this one spot with a hill. I walked the hill. And I did good. I did great. I finished in 5:33, only three minutes off my secret, very-hopeful goal time and at the same pace I’d run 21 miles only a few weeks before.

5:33 is good. Walking the hills is good. Walking some of the other stuff is good too, because finishing is amazing. Sunlight filtered through leaves is good, and running downhill into the shade, and rest stops with cold Gatorade and fresh oranges. Crossing a finish line to find a friend waiting can bring tears to your eyes and sitting down after five and a half hours on your feet is so good you don’t want it to end. Volunteers and spectators and runners who are running with you, not against you, are what love means; pride in someone else’s finish can top your own.

What’s a good way spend a long weekend? You could hole up in a B&B and shop for antiques or splay your body across the sand and let the waves lull you to sleep. You could go climbing–three days of perfect weather on warm rock–or crank up the radio and the barbecue in the backyard with some friends. Or you could share one of the most grueling days of your life with someone who makes you smile.

Did you have a good Memorial Day weekend? I did.

Steve’s Pineland Farms Trail Race blog entry