After last week’s post about ratings, I found myself at Owl’s Lair on Bizarro day. The easiest route we did, The Bad (a fun and well-protected corner/crack until the top where it becomes an easy and unprotected face climb), was nominally the hardest at 5.8. Meanwhile, some of the supposedly easier routes we did like… Read more »
Posts By: Dawn
What’s in a number?
Would a route by any other rating be as hard? I haven’t climbed at Cathole in years, and by years I probably mean 10 of them. There was only one route I could remember having anything to do with and that was Pegasus. I knew it was one of the Connecticut classics and remembered it… Read more »
A little local action
I don’t climb locally very often, so sometimes the gear and the moves feel iffy, but Saturday everything seemed to be flowing (aside from a few minutes stuck at the crux of Wishbone). John kept his head together following Knight’s Move and did some wild offwidth, gaston moves on Vector. I saw some friends I… Read more »
So sweet
That first pitch of Erect Direction is probably one of the nicest pitches in the Gunks. It’s a shorter, less strenuous, less sustained version of Double Crack and, except for the shorter part, I think I appreciate that about it. Erect Direction P1 offers stress-free fun. This is the time of the year when the… Read more »
Cathy visits the Gunks
I asked Cathy what her favorite route was and she picked rapping Madame G’s in the freak hail storm. Yeah, it was memorable. We were finishing Madame G’s as the thunder got serious. We knew we needed to get down fast or get soaked, but I’d assured Cathy that people didn’t die from lightning strikes… Read more »
Pinnacle of Perfection
A beautiful day, a breath-taking view, one great partner, and a few nice moderates. Thanks to the Yale Climbing Club for sharing their guidebook and the rock with us. Herbarium, 5.5 First Crack, 5.4 Third Crack, 5.7+
John’s first day at the Gunks
John’s taken the belay class at the gym and climbed there twice so it was time to let him have a taste of real rock. The way he took to the crack at the gym–executing a backstep foot jam move I’ve never actually seen before–suggested he’d be a natural, and his total lack of regard… Read more »
Farley with the folks
Went to Farley with Dan and Christine and Eric and Jack. I’d tell you what we climbed but I don’t really know. Much of it I’d done before but there was a 5.12 roof to the left of a 5.8 which I hadn’t (for obvious reasons). The approach to the 5.12 roof was supposed to… Read more »
Climbing with the Colorado folks
High E, 5.6 (Dawn & Steven) Bonnie’s Roof, 5.8 (P1: Tom, P2: Shelly) Pink Laurel, 5.9 (Dawn) Classic, 5.7 (Tom) Jackie, 5.5 (Steven)
Thursday with Todd
Birdie Party, 5.8 (P1 & 2: Dawn) Interstice, 5.10 (TR) MF Direct, 5.10 (Todd) Mother’s Day Party, 5.10 (TR)