At least the 8s are easy

Last week Todd and I both climbed well, perhaps a little too well for a first day out. If day one we climbed like mid-season, for day two we must be in end-of-season form, right? Wrong.

The mistake was probably jumping on To Be Or Not To Be so early in the day. Neither of us could get up it and it was my task to fall/be pulled to the top to get our gear back. Both pumped, Todd still turned in a fine lead on Criss Cross Direct and my performance as follower was about par for my particular course (that route hates me, I swear).

Not particularly daunted by my failure on To Be Or Not To Be, which is hard, or Criss Cross Direct, which is hateful, I geared up for Crass. I’d never led it but towards the end of last season Steven and I TR’d it straighforwardly and it was “on the list”. As soon as I put on the rack I knew I was in trouble. The crux move there is part dynamic, part wiggly and I suddenly couldn’t imagine doing it weighed down with dangling obstacles.

I’ll say this for myself–I did try. I got the gear in and made a half-hearted attempt and took and made a two-thirds-hearted attempt and dangled and finally made a three-quarter-hearted attempt and took a real fall. So there’s my first lead fall for the season out of the way. It took until day two.

Even Todd couldn’t finish it up for me, though he was brave enough to downclimb and clean. I’d planned to go up Le Plie to get our gear back but Todd hates Le Plie, so perhaps it wasn’t a question of bravery so much as aversion.

If we’d been there alone we probably would have quit at that point, but we were in a car with another friend who was a full-dayer, so instead we ran up four more pitches of sub-10 climbing in about two hours. Thanks to Scotty we got in a lot of nice climbing for the day and got to restore our bruised egos. The familiar lines felt more fun than hard, though there’s more climbing on P2 of Inverted Layback when it’s all done in one pitch than I’d previously realized.

Farewell to Arms, 5.8 (Dawn)
To Be Or Not To Be, 5.11 (TR)
Criss Cross Direct, 5.10 (Todd)
Crass, 5.10 (no one)
Alfonse, 5.8 (P1: Dawn, P2: Todd)
Inverted Layback, 5.9 (Todd)

A late start to an early start but a good start

On the first day of rock climbing season this year I went skiing. I didn’t intend it that way, but I’d already made plans. Who knew the climbing season would start so early?

It was a beautiful day at the Gunks, so I hear, but it was a beautiful day in Vermont too. The snow was soft, which helped keep me in control speed-wise and also taught me that I was dragging the downhill edge of my uphill ski. Do that in soft conditions and you pay for it with a face plant. So that was a good lesson, repeated a few times to drive it home. On one particular blue trail I fell down so many times I attracted my own ski patrol escort to collect my scattered poles and skis and guard me from the plundering masses as I staggered, once again, to my feet. The good news is that it was a warm day to be wet and that snow hurts a lot less than rock when you’re sliding down it head first. I think I ended the day, and possibly the ski season, a better skier than I started it.

I wasn’t sure how much I’d be up for Sunday after a full day and a lot of driving the day before. Besides, where did I think I lived, California? Skiing on Saturday and rock climbing on Sunday in the northeast? With a little reluctance, I agreed to meet Todd for a half day at the Gunks. It was noon by the time we started, so I was a day and a half late for the start of the season, but it was a glorious day and the crowds weren’t out.

We started, of course, on Apoplexy. Todd led it in his usual breezy style. Following it, I found myself not pumped or tired but confused. Once I got down I realized why I felt so lost up there–no chalk marks. It was truly the start of the season. Naturally the next route on the agenda was Trapped Like a Rat. I led it in mid-season form. In fact, I’m not sure I’ve ever led it better. Then we got ambitious. Todd wanted to try Try Again, which had a block come off it at the end of last season, possibly changing the route. He didn’t have much trouble with it and I, again, climbed it better than I ever had. I meant to finish on Something Interesting but it wasn’t open and MF was and Todd said “how about MF” and I said “oh fine.” Because who cares? There are days when you just don’t give a damn how it comes out and maybe those are the days you climb your best. Fall, don’t, break a leg, what would be the difference? I led MF like it was September.

It was a beautiful day at the Gunks. It’s not really rock season yet but it was a preview of things to come. This season the cards can lay where they fall.

Apoplexy, 5.9 (Todd)
Trapped Like a Rat, 5.7 (Dawn)
Try Again, 5.10 (Todd)
MF, 5.9 (Dawn)

Ice climbing

This post is long overdue, nine years you could say. Back when I was a new climber I was lucky enough to meet Steven on rec.climbing. He not only showed me around the Gunks and introduced me to a lot of great people I’m still friends with today but also gave me my first taste of ice climbing.

I’ve since been told that we were climbing with some real hard men that day he took me to the Catskills in rented crampons and a hodge-podge of recently-purchased clothes, but I was new and didn’t know anybody from anybody so I wasn’t impressed by the crowd. I was impressed by the guy leading a mixed climb. It was a long, slow lead and I felt sorry for his belayer anchored to an ice screw on a cold day, but I was fascinated by his moves. I didn’t write up anything about that trip but I did post on rec.climbing that I needed to find a boyfriend who led mixed climbs.

Nine years later no one has taken me up on that yet, but I’m one step closer: I’m dating an ice climber. Steve’s been trying to drag me into all his endeavors so I borrowed my friend Lisa’s ice gear and we spent a day at a spot in Thomaston just off the road where the ice was short but steep.

There was a lot of ice, but it was hard and shattered when forecfully poked. Steve semi-shook his way up his first lead and didn’t place enough protection (in my newbie ice opinion) to protect the top out. By the time he was off belay, I was in tears. It’s always hard to watch someone you care about in a precarious position and I knew enough about the physics of climbing to see that he’d hit the ground if he fell without knowing enough about ice climbing to judge how likely a fall was.

Steve set up a TR and lowered off. Once I’d regained my composure, I followed the short climb. Kick, kick, thwack, thwack, as I refer to ice climbing technique. I fell off immediately (so had he) but the ice improved once I was a few feet off the ground and I was able to make it to the top.

Ice climbing is a new skill and tough, but, just as I did nine years ago, I enjoyed it more than I expected to. This time around I had more endurance and forearm strength, which unquestionably helped. The frustrating part was how hard mundane climbing tasks were. I know how to tie in and clean gear, but with gloves on these simple chores were an awkward impossibility. I couldn’t clean the anchor because I couldn’t be trusted to walk off, and even lowering was a frightening ordeal: I was surrounded by pointy bits trying to snag and spear me.

But my biggest concern about ice climbing is learning to lead. I know me, and I know that if I keep ice climbing I won’t satisfied with following for long. So there’s a slope in front of me and, being covered in ice, you know it’s slippery. I’d like to leave the ice climbing to Steve and stick to skiing and tango lessons and ultra-marathons, but what he has, he has to share.

To be continued . . .

A Tale of Two Boyfriends

Last year my friend Miriam took me out for my first day on skis in over 20 years. Under her tutelage, I had a nice day and saw promise for my future, but my future didn’t include skiing again for another year.

It was Steve who suggested I learn from Miriam last year. Miriam happens to be a ski instructor but she’s also not-my-boyfriend. Steve has a natural athletic grace, many more years of sports experience than I have, and difficulty throttling himself down to the average person’s level. I can climb with him, but I can’t run with him, and there was no reason to believe I could ski with him.

Over twenty years ago, I had my first and only previous skiing experience with another boyfriend. Scott, like Steve, was an expert skier. Or at least so he told me. He took me to Mt. Southington in jeans, knitted mittens, and a polyester parka and taught me to snowplow on the bunny slope before dragging me up the lift to the top of the mountain. I walked down that mountain sideways, step by step, several times that day while he flew ahead of me and waited for my flailing, tangled arrival at the bottom where I tried to ski the last flattish section. I was cold, wet, scared, and miserable, and I knew from that day forward that skiing wasn’t for me.

So when Steve suggested skiing at Mohawk on Saturday, I agreed with trepidation. I had said I wanted to do something fun on Saturday and skiing, on the face of it, qualified. Miriam and Tara were helping make the day an inexpensive proposition, and Steve was insisting he could have fun teaching me to ski. Out of excuses, I tried to look forward to it.

It was a cold day, but I was thoroughly swaddled and coddled in borrowed clothes and proffered hand warmers. I made my first run down the bunny slope like last year’s practice had never happened, but Miriam’s lessons quickly came back to me and Steve was genuinely patient and encouraging. He pushed me just hard enough, giving me one tip per run so I had time to digest and integrate each one separately. I didn’t last nearly as long as he did, but I took a longer lunch break while he skied at his own pace and managed to push my comfort level a little farther after lunch.

The difference between the two experiences was striking. Steve had the sense to make sure I was dressed for the occasion and he was there for me, not to get in a day’s skiing. He gave me the tools I needed to do something other than fall down, and he praised the results. I was basking in his attention and approval, enjoying the thrill of the good runs and not minding when I took a tumble. In short, I was having fun.

If Scott had introduced me to skiing the right way, would my life have taken a different tack? Would I have discovered sports and the great outdoors at an earlier age? Probably not. What’s less obvious but equally as important as the difference between Steve and Scott is the difference between the two me’s. The me that went skiing with Scott all those years ago already knew she wouldn’t be able to learn to ski, and she set out to prove it. I can’t imagine that that Dawn was a rewarding student to teach (or was very pleasant on the car ride home).

Unlike Steve, I was never a natural athlete. It took finding climbing–something I loved enough to do regardless of how bad I was at it–to learn how to learn how to do something physical. It took climbing to make me fit enough to make me capable of doing something physical. And it took climbing to bring my natural determination to bear on the physical world. When climbing gets stubborn on me, when it pitches and bucks and tries to throw me off, I get stubborn back. I dig in my heels and ride it out and eventually I win.

Today I can ski and fall down and stand up determined to do better, not determined to go home. Twenty years ago I could only do what I believed I’d be good at. Now, sometimes, I can step outside my own parameters of perfection and have fun learning what I may never be good at (though not if I can help it). Downhill racing, here I come.

Lovely

A lovely day with perfect temps, no crowds, and lots of classic routes that I hadn’t been on yet this year. We mostly kept it easy, so no epics either. The one toughie was Never Never Land, which Scotty led. It was on my list of 10s I could lead, but now that I’ve been on it again, I’m removing it. The moves up to the first pin are scary-hard. The move at the bolt is just hard. Then the moves above the bolt to the next pin are scary-hard again. Right now I’m not up for that kind of thin climbing on lead. I didn’t even particularly enjoy it on TR.

Due to a recent discussion on gunks.com about how old the pins are on Thin Slabs Direct, I was glad to have the opportunity to climb it. I still clipped all 3 pins. Why not? But since we were discussing it, I monkeyed around with backing them up and all three can be backed up either directly next to or near the pin. I think I used red, green, and blue Aliens. It certainly makes the route a lot harder and I don’t normally carry the blue Alien on routes under 5.9, but it’s doable.

FWIW, I still think the pins are likely to hold the small fall they’d be catching and if I hadn’t been in research mode, I’d have just clipped them and gone. The only way I’d fall there is if I pumped myself out hanging around placing gear. It seems safer to move on. Ideally, to me, all three would be replaced with one good one in the middle.

I spent some time thinking about why I rack multiple cams to a biner, since this is Steve’s major complaint about my rack and Scotty’s cams were mostly individually racked. The obvious reason is that it’s how I learned to lead, and once something is ingrained it becomes “right” even though it’s really just familiar. But there are more subtle reasons.

First, I like having multiple chances at having grabbed the right biner. Even all these years down the road I still frequently choose the wrong cam on my first guess. But the right cam is almost always on the same biner, so there’s no major delay in correcting the mistake. However, I recognize the possibility that if there were more of a penalty for guessing wrong the first time then I might learn to be more accurate. On the other hand, some people who single rack their cams don’t place the best gear and I wonder how much that has to do with settling.

Second, I don’t like having too many biners on the same loop of my gear sling. It’s like a crowded closet–you can’t see what’s in there and you can’t flip through to find out. Four biners per loop is about my max. If I individually racked my cams I’d end up with as many as 9 biners on the same loop (by some people’s standards, I carry way too many cams).

Third, I like predictability. Some placements must be extended. Even if you like the idea of clipping the rope to the piece with only a single biner as an intermediary, there are going to be times when you need a runner. Since there’s already a biner on the cam, you only need one biner on the sling. But few people who individually rack their cams also individually rack their nuts, so some slings need two biners. The result is a mishmash of over-the-shoulder slings, extra biners, and tripled slings that requires too much thought for me. I have a system that works.

Most importantly, I hate over-the-shoulder slings. It seems to me that if you can wrest a sling over your head then the stance is so good you don’t need protection. Not to mention the issue of needing to use a specific hand to perform this maneuver. In short, if someone came up with a good way to carry a sling with only a single biner that didn’t require contortion or gymnastics for removal, I might consider racking my cams one to a biner. But probably not.

Strictly/Shockley’s linkup (P1 Strictly: Scotty, linkup & P3 Shockley’s: Dawn)
Sente/Thin Slabs Direct linkup (Sente: Scotty, linkup & TSD: Dawn)
Never Never Land, 5.10 (Scotty)
Absurdland, 5.9 (Dawn)
Frog’s Head, 5.6 (P1: Scotty, P2: Dawn)

Something Good

“I must have done something good,” I thought, “to deserve this.” I hadn’t had a good climbing season, but I’d had a good climbing day. P38 felt easy. I led a 10, though not so cleanly. Then Mike put the rope on the 11 next to it and I walked up the thing. Though we were only TRing that day, Mike has led Country Roads before and when I came down I said I could see how someone would lead it.

“You’d lead that?!?” Mike is perpetually incredulous.

“I said someone. I didn’t say me.”

But the seed was planted.

There’s a song from The Sound of Music that the rich guy and Maria sing to each other about what they must have done in their lives to deserve each other, and it was that refrain, “I must have done something good,” that was echoing in my head the next day. I was wondering what I’d done to deserve having my first trad 5.11 handed to me. My first attempt at 5.9 precipitated a lead head crash that lingered for four years. My first 5.10 took three tries (and I mean on three different days) despite it being a route I’d followed routinely for seven years. But my first 11? Oooh, baby.

I thought maybe it was my reward for climbing with Mike that day. Climbing with Mike takes a certain amount of fortitude (the smell of whiskey at 9 a.m. is disconcerting) and a lot of patience. There’s going to be some major objective, THE LEAD OF THE DAY, that’s going to be slow and painful and involve endless apologizing and even more whiskey and, ultimately, it might not happen at all (which is how P38 went that day).

But once through THE LEAD OF THE DAY, Mike is at your disposal. And he’s a guy who knows a lot of stuff. One thing he knows is some most excellent beta for Country Roads, a route I’d once-upon-a-time tried before and got nowhere on. Using Mike’s beta, I questioned the 5.11 rating. And it had fixed gear. Man, I love fixed gear.

Another good thing I’d done was lose some weight. More believable than karma, weight loss makes a big difference when hanging off little holds. I wanted to believe I was just that thin, just that good. I plotted the moves in my head. Right hand, left hand, left foot, right foot, right hand, left foot, something magic happens, reach down and clip the tat. Done.

So the next weekend I was out there with Steve and I knew I wanted to try it if I could only bring myself to do it. Those moments when you believe you can are the ones you want to cling to. Doing means finding out. With me and my impossible dreams, finding out often means the end of the dream. But you can’t put “believe” in the bank, so after five minutes of pawing the ground and trying to find a gear placement in between the shared start and the crux, I stepped up and said yes.

Steve has two ropes. It’s annoying of him and initially I thought I’d only bring one but then I had the semi-brilliant idea that the second rope would make retreating, if necessary, considerably easier. So I led the shared City Streets/Country Roads start on the blue rope, soloed up to the crux (indeed, there is no gear) and clipped the red rope into the fixed gear (man, I love fixed gear). I backed up the fixed gear because, as bomber as it looked, it was realistically the only thing between me and the ground and, figuring I might as well use both ropes, I clipped the

You know what? You don’t need all that detail. In the end there was blood and carnage and ropes and gear everywhere and eventually we got it all back (except some of the blood) and everyone was safe on the ground and Steve even got up City Streets without any aiding, so it was nice someone got up something.

The “something magic happens” move didn’t go so well. I still haven’t figured that one out, not even in my head in bed right before I fall asleep and I’m normally a really good climber then. I think I need a Mike consult.

So my first attempt at leading 5.11 on gear was a lot like my first attempts at 5.10 and 5.9: a good story but a bad climb. But you know what? 9 happened and 10 happened and suddenly I believe that 11 is going to happen, and that’s a thing I never believed before. So I must have done something good.

10/18
Trapped Like a Rat, 5.7 (Julia)
P38, 5.10 (TR)
City Streets, 5.10 (Dawn)
Country Roads, 5.11 (TR)

10/24
Drunkard’s Delight, 5.8 (Steve)
Son of Easy O, 5.8 (Dawn)
Bloody Bush, 5.6 (P1: Steve, P2: Dawn)
Country Roads/City Streets

A Jealous Mistress

The general consensus about my plan to climb the day after running the Hartford Marathon was that I was nuts, but I figured my arms would be fresh enough. More importantly, there just had to be some climbing. What with one thing and another, and you can blame a lot on the rain, I haven’t climbed half as much this year as I usually do. Which has made for a season in limbo–neither here nor there, neither better nor worse. I manage a couple weekends in a row or get in a solid few weeks at the gym and see some improvement. Then life deals another scheduling blow and I’m back to start-of-season form. Now the season is nearly over and I’ve got precious little to point at. At least, not in the way of climbing.

I keep saying I’m not a runner and keep sacrificing yet another weekend to yet another race. At first glance, a race is a thing that takes a few hours. But then there are the training days and the traveling days and the recovery days. The longer the race, the more the days, the more hours in those days. Running is not my true love, but it’s a jealous mistress.

Back when I ran my first race, a half marathon, people would ask if I was planning to run a full marathon and I’d emphatically tell them no. It would take more than four hours, I’d tell them (I was probably underestimating) and I couldn’t imagine suffering for that long. For two hours, the time it takes to run a half marathon, I could suffer. For four, no.

And I couldn’t train for it, I explained to Steve when we first started dating. I had so much trouble with shin splints back then that it was hard to get in more than a dozen miles a week, which is technically not enough to train for even a half marathon. Besides, running was just exercise. It was something I did to stay in shape–to work the cardiovascular system, to build stronger bones, to burn calories. My first race was an experience, a thrill ride, but it was supposed to be a one-time deal. I’m a climber, damn it, Jim.

So maybe I’m a climber who runs.

The marathon was great. I did it in 3:39 and wasn’t suffering for more than ten minutes of it. I sure didn’t train as hard as the websites say you ought to, averaging only 35 miles a week for only three weeks, but I guess that was enough, and the shin splints held off until it was time to taper anyway. When I said I’d never run a marathon, I didn’t know that a marathon could feel like that.

But what about the climbing? Why does the balance keep shifting?

* You can always run. Climbing requires daylight, decent weather, a partner, some nice rock, and enough time to get to the rock, climb some stuff, and get back. Running requires a pair of shoes and a sports bra (and sometimes I live without the sports bra). If you only have half an hour, you only go three miles. If it’s raining, you get wet. If it’s dark, you wear a headlamp.

* Racing has a deadline. Once you click submit on that race entry form, you’ve got a goal, and that goal has a date associated with it. I have many climbing goals and dreams but they can always wait until next weekend. Or next season.

* It’s not that important. Climbing is like the really attractive PPG (person of preferred gender) you have a mega crush on. Your heart beats faster, you can’t catch your breath, and your brain turns to mush. It’s love/hate, flight or fight. You’ll die if he doesn’t notice you and you’ll die if he does. Running’s just zis guy, you know? No one gets hurt, no one gets scared, no one gets disappointed or excited or has their ego boosted or dumped on. I just run.

But what about the climbing? Aren’t you going to talk about climbing?

Ah, yes. We went to Farley, me and the Russians. There’s no guidebook for Farley, but I knew a little and Natasha knew a little more and a very kind local (there seem to be quite a few very kind locals in that area) shared his knowledge. Between us, I got to climb six routes I’d never been on before. Most were fully bolted but I did mix in one mixed route, since Natasha had lugged her gear all the way up there.

I was expecting the Russians to be rope guns but they’d over-climbed the day before and so we all happily melted into lethargy around three o’clock. We took a tour of the area and I saw Yosemite Crack. Having now seen it, I can see I need to do it.

(route names where known)
5.9
11a (TR)
Sweating Buckets, 5.9
5.10 mixed
Vinyl Siding, 5.10
Airblast, 5.8

A low productivity day

There was something in the air. It was a beautiful early fall day, the weather crisp, clear, and just warm enough once the sun came up to climb in short sleeves. The Gunks were surprisingly uncrowded yet filled with people I knew. But despite the auspicious circumstances, when we reconvened at the end of the day, very few of us had managed more than four pitches.

Now four pitches for me and Todd is nothing unusual, but back in the day we managed it in a matter of hours. We were experts at the late morning start combined with the early afternoon fade-off. This, on the other hand, was a workman-like nine to five day. Our mistake was climbing onsight and over our heads.

It started with a long walk down to Wasp. The theory here was that it was going to be crowded, or perhaps it was just a change up. Or it was Todd’s determination to get me on Frustration Syndrome. However it was, we walked down there and Todd started leading Wasp. Now I know people (Julie) who actually like this climb, but Todd and I aren’t two of them. It’s got a hard, scary start and we never seem to be able to figure out how to get down. Todd hemmed and hawed his way up the first ten feet but after that we both progressed smoothly and thanks to a 70 meter rope and a little experience, we even got ourselves down with some efficiency (only losing a sling plus biners, as we discovered too late).

Thus far, we were doing just fine. Next up was the aforementioned Frustration Syndrome. Todd had been on it once and thought it wasn’t so hard for 5.10. There was a period when we weren’t climbing together and he was climbing with some guys from his gym when he was climbing very well. I do believe he climbed Frustration Syndrome during this period because it turned out to be hard. I’m not saying it was so hard for 5.10, but it wasn’t so easy for 5.10 either. You have to fiddle in a lot of fiddly gear from a lot of bad stances and after fighting through an awful lot of it and doing it pretty well, I thought, I got to the final small roof and put in an iffy piece and started to pull over it and ran out of holds and backed off and tried to put in another piece and found it even iffier and, in a state of unreasonable panic, grabbed a blue/black hybrid alien that had only the black lobes touching.

Which held.

It took some looking and some thinking but I finally found gear I liked, a stance of sorts, and some holds over the roof. In the days following the climb I figured I could do it clean next time, now that I knew. I’m writing this report two weeks later and I no longer know. I know where the stance is. Maybe that’ll be enough. Todd suggested that he’d done the climb once, well, and that perhaps he never needed to be on it again.

Next up was Todd leading Simple Suff. Simple Suff is probably the sole instance of a 5.10 at the Gunks that I’d led and he hadn’t. As with Wasp, there are people who like this climb (Steven), but I suspected Todd wouldn’t be one of them. I actually led it clean, making it one of very few 5.10 onsights for me, but I was in something like a trance while I was doing it. There are days when you climb beyond your abilities. This wasn’t one of them for Todd and there was much whining and no small amount of hanging before he reached the top.

Then it was my turn. The first pitch of Falled on Account of Strain is only 5.9 but it’s 5.9-terrifying and 5.9-reachy. Honestly, I don’t even know if I’d bother to go back and get this clean except supposedly there’s a great pitch of 5.10 up there somewhere. The first pitch itself didn’t seem to have any interesting climbing if you could reach the holds and weren’t about to die.

At this point, it was late enough to start meandering back to the Uberfall to avoid being late for our rendezvous. Our hope was to run into friends with ropes up but instead we kept running into friends with their harnesses off and their feet dragging. Everyone was ready for a cold beer after a long day of having their butt kicked. Except for Steve. He rolled in about 45 minutes later, chipper and chatty with a long line of successful pitches to crow about. Apparently he didn’t get the memo.

Wasp, 5.9 (Todd)
Frustration Syndrome, 5.10 (Dawn)
Simple Suff, 5.10a (Todd)
Falled on Account of Strain P1, 5,9+ (Dawn)

Reach the Beach 2008

Part Fun, Part Logistics
I joined The Red Eye Runners, Steve’s Reach the Beach team, at the last minute when one of his teammates had to drop out. My friend Lisa commented that Reach the Beach is supposedly fun but a logistical nightmare. Luckily for me, this was the team’s fourth time running the race, so they had their system dialed. All I needed to do was show up and run. Our friend Kevin also joined the team, so we had a strong climbing contingent and I felt right at home.


Me, Kevin, and Steve, ready to ascend if needed

Reach the Beach is a 200 mile relay race that starts at the foot of Cannon Mountain and ends at Hampton Beach. Our team consisted of twelve runners, each of whom would run three legs. My legs were 7.8, 3.8, and 9.3 miles for a total of 20.9 miles. I was given the plum position of starting first and although I worried about having my hardest leg last, it worked out very well.


The Red Eye Runners at the starting line

Crew and Be Crewed
A big part of the Reach the Beach experience is supporting your teammates. The organizers don’t provide water anywhere on the course, so teams need to not only bring their own but strategically position themselves to hand it out. That meant that we were all both runners and crew.


Crewing for Steve along his hardest leg

It also meant a lot less downtime than crewing for something like the Vermont 100. As soon as someone was off and running, the rest of us were off and driving to the next rendezvous point. On shorter legs, that might be the next baton hand-off point, but on longer legs we usually stopped and met the runner at least once along the course. That way runners didn’t have to carry their own water.


My van mates waiting to crew for me on my first leg

Having never had a crew before, I didn’t quite get into the rhythm of chugging fluids at designated points. On my first leg, the crew met me halfway as agreed, only to watch me shake my head and blow past them. I’d almost caught up to someone and didn’t feel like slowing down.


Flying by my crew

I like being able to drink when my exertion level is lower, so I’m not always in the mood when a hydration stop comes up. In road races, there’s a fluid station every mile or two, so you can afford to miss one, but going 7 miles full tilt without a drink would have been tough if it hadn’t been a cool, drizzly day.

My second leg was too short to bother with a pit stop, but for my third, longest, and warmest leg, I sent the crew on ahead and carried a water bottle.

By the time we’d met the runner halfway, driven the rest of the way, gotten the van parked, and walked to the hand-off point, there usually wasn’t long to wait before the runner appeared. Crewing made the time go faster between running gigs and getting my own chance to run made the crewing more rewarding.

Kill! Kill! Kill!
One of the unusual aspects of RTB is the staggered start. The organizers want everyone to finish at the same time, so each team is assigned a start time based on their estimated completion time. Our team was assigned 11:00 am, which put us pretty squarely in the middle of the pack.

In a normal race, the people in front of you are faster than you are and the people behind you are slower. After all, that’s how you got into those positions. So if someone passes you more than a few miles into the race, it’s not a good sign.

At Reach the Beach, the people in front of you are slower and the people behind you are faster because the organizers stacked the deck that way. The farther into the race you get, the stronger this strange effect becomes and the more crowded the field gets. Theoretically, we all catch up to each other in one blazing dash for the finish line. (Fortunately for the already tortured logistics, it doesn’t quite happen that way.)

The Red Eye Runners track how many times you kill (pass someone) and how many times you get killed (are passed). For my first leg I was running with people who’d started at the exact same time as me, so in order to keep my kill scoring simple I made a point of being the last one out of the chute. I ended my leg somewhere in the middle of the clump, which gave me credit for six kills without any risk of getting killed myself.


Leaving the gate

By leg two, things had changed. It hadn’t gotten crowded yet–this was still only leg 13 out of 36 overall–but there were runners from all different start times on the course. I passed two; two passed me. It was a dead heat.

On my last leg, I was blowing past people as fast as people were blowing past me. The effect can be demoralizing if you don’t recognize the hopelessness of holding off someone whose predicted pace is two minutes per mile faster than yours. On the other hand, if you’re the fastest runner on your team like Steve, you can feel like a hero picking off kill after kill.

“This is our home now.”
Like most teams, ours rented two vans. At any given time, one van was on active duty, with its six runners rotating through their legs, and the other van was doing its best to eat, sleep, and stay out of the way. Crammed into each van were six runners and everything they owned–running shoes, sleeping bags, bottles of Gatorade, and bags of trail mix.


Lunch at Echo Lake State Park with Whitehorse in the background

As Kevin commented partway through the second day, “This is our home now. This is where we live.” The van starts out as a vehicle. You cram your bags in the trunk and sit upright in tidy rows with seat belts on. It ends as a dorm room. Clothes–wet, smelly, worn, and muddy–carpet the floor and hang from random protuberances. Pillows and sleeping bags are draped over the “couches” where recline semi-coherent, unwashed humanoids. Food is wedged between the seat cushions, eaten at all hours, and tossed across the room on command. At bedtime every surface becomes a bed. It’s a claustrophobic, messy, friendly environment that happens to roll.

“It’s a white van. Have you seen it?”
Our vans were white. So were everyone else’s vans. Apparently this race uses up the entire inventory of white rental vans for the Eastern Seaboard. As you get farther into the race, the transition areas get more crowded and the quantity of white vans grows beyond the imaginable.


Breakfast amongst a sea of white vans

I came to realize why the legs are such random lengths–that’s how far it is to the next place you can park 200 white vans. With more than 300 teams and each team having two vans, it’s possible to have as many as 600 white vans at the key spots where teams switch from one van to the other. Of course not everyone has a white van. Some people have a white mini-van. And woe be unto them. It was crowded enough in a full size van.

To give themselves a fighting chance at finding their own particular white van, people decorate them. We decorated ours with washable markers. In keeping with our team name, Flo drew large red-eyes floating atop tiny bodied runners on the back windows. Then it rained. During our van’s first down period, when it was no longer raining, we decorated it again. Then it rained again. The second time, she apparently used a more resilient marker to draw the bodies of the runners so the bodies remained while the eyes washed away. From then on, we were the headless runners.

Views of the Serenity Van during the short time it was decorated

Our van was called the “Serenity” van because it holds the nicer half of the Red Eye Runners. In this, I was clearly misplaced, but I did my best to be serene and confine my competitive mutterings to my own times.


Flo, Sue, Kevin, Jane, me and Steve – The Serenity Van crew

Running Against the Numbers
It’s been almost a year since I ran a road race. I’ve put in a lot of mileage since then so you’d think I’d be getting faster but the numbers didn’t suggest that. Our team captain asked us for our half marathon time and I gave him the best time I had. He then used a complex series of formulas based on our supplied half marathon times and the supposed length and difficulty of the leg to predict how long it would take us to run it.

My first leg was 7.8 miles and my first predicted time was 1:03. I didn’t know how hilly the leg would be but that seemed about right. Steve said to run at 90% capacity so after the first mile I turned it on. I came in about half a minute late feeling like I’d run faster.

My second leg was where I thought I could make up some time. It was only 3.8 miles, in the dark, in the rain–optimum running conditions. I felt like I was flying over the dark, wet asphalt. Lights flashed around me–from my headlamp and safety vest, from the vests and lamps of other runners, from police cars monitoring the route–and were broken into prisms by glistening rain drops. It was a quiet leg through deserted town streets. My head was down the whole way. I was sure I’d come in faster than the 30 minutes Bill had predicted, but I was more than a minute slow. Panting, grumbling, and steaming from sweat-and-rain soaked clothes, I stumbled back to the van plotting my last leg.

Not only was my last leg the longest of the three at 9.3 miles, it was also the one described as “hard” by the organizers. We were learning that the descriptions seemed to have more to do with the length (short = easy, long = hard) than the terrain, but there was some comparison within legs of the same length and my first leg had only been a moderate. I wasn’t feeling tired, despite having run hard earlier that day (or was it the day before?). Nevertheless, I doubted I could run nine hard miles at full tilt.

I decided to strategize by walking any particularly steep hills. That’s Steve’s strategy in longer races (though he didn’t walk any in a race as “short” as this one) and I’d found in training that I could turn in just as fast a time by walking hills as by running them and maintain a more positive attitude while I did it.

The hill section started less than a mile into the leg. I felt like an idiot dropping down to a walk and being passed by people I’d just passed. I’m sure they thought I was done for (and such a short way into the leg). But at the top of the first hill I felt redeemed as I sped back past them. From then on, I didn’t worry about it, even when someone running past me said “come on” in an encouraging voice. I stuck to my strategy and ultimately left all the people who’d been running the hills while I walked them behind. After a particularly long, steep hill, the course flattened out. The rest of the leg was either flat or downhill and I was full of energy.

Coming in to the transition area, I was sure I’d beaten my target this time, and I had. By ten whole seconds! Over almost 21 miles, our captain was only a minute and a half off in predicting my times and only 22 minutes off for the entire 200 mile race. I guess his formulas work.

Oops, there goes gravity
Once everyone in our van had run their third leg we had nothing to do but drive to the finish line and await our teammates. Since the finish line was at a beach and it was a lovely day, this wasn’t a hard task.


Me and Steve, having “reached the beach”

We stopped on the boardwalk for ice cream and french fries and a return to reality. Suddenly people were fat again. There were children and dogs and senior citizens who weren’t in the best shape of their lives. No one lived in a white van or was changing in the back seat of one. People didn’t travel in packs with their five new best friends. When a runner passed by, no one cheered. We had spent two days in a very strange world where everyone was just as strange as we were, thus normal. The real world was a little bit flat.

Fortunately, “normality” was restored when we parked in a field whose only crop was white vans and followed a stream of toned, tired people in desperate need of a shower to the finish line. Our runner appeared right on schedule and we got to join him in the last dash. Our team captain gave us our shirts and medals in a lovely ceremony on the beach and we posed for a last photo together. I don’t know if I’ll ever get a chance to be a Red Eye Runner again, but I enjoyed this one.


The Red Eye Runners at the finish line

Steve’s account of the race

The High-Commitment Heave Ho

If you start Inverted Layback at the crack/arete on the left, there’s a lot of climbing on it. But whether you start on the left or straight up the middle, the climb comes down to a single moment when you pick up your left foot, the moment when you begin the “inverted layback.”

Last weekend at Cathedral, Steve and I were trying to figure out how to start the second pitch of Pooh (or Rollin and Tumblin, depending on who you believe). It’s a hand crack once you get there, but it’s a seam first, and although we had a nice Alien in to keep us from falling off the ledge, the first couple of moves are thin and only marginally protected. There’s a huge, honking, obvious left foot, but once you step up on it, you’re locked in for the whole ride. Ultimately, we decided there was no smooth way to transition into the crack. As on Inverted Layback, throwing the foot up and committing to the moves that follow is the only option.

The next day at Whitehorse, the commitment was more gradual. On a slab, each step takes you farther from the bolt, each step makes the sequence harder to reverse. The actual do-or-die moment is harder to define and therefore easier to postpone. Am I committed yet? How about now? Can I still change my mind? Maybe I will.

Based on these three data points, I do better with big leaps than baby steps, though my mind tells me otherwise. I seek out ways to ease into the climb, to leave my options open, but options can lead to distracting self talk. Commitment leads to “quiet mind.”

“We’re doing this,” I said, throwing my pack down at the bottom of Inverted Layback and ending a lot of discussion and aimless wandering. Quiet mind.

Disneyland, 5.6 (Dawn)
Le Plie, 5.7 (Steven)
Crass, 5.10 (TR)
Inverted Layback, 5.9 (P1: Dawn, P2: Mark)
Yellow Ridge, 5.7 (P1 & 2: Steven, P3: Dawn)