I’m not smart but I’m strong

For some reason I didn’t start my season on Trapped Like a Rat this year. I didn’t even think about it until Todd mentioned the route as we were walking below it on the carriage road. I looked up and saw the ugly corner in its usual damp state and just said “oh” and kept walking. Instead I started on Something Interesting, which is better, easier, and longer. It felt pretty good. Later I led both pitches of Son of Easy O, a route that used to be reserved for good days, approached only after a lot of fearful soul searching.  Sunday, I just stepped up and started.  The opening moves didn’t even really feel hard or slick or scary.  They were just moves. We had done two 10s immediately prior, so I’d have been forgiven for feeling pumped or tired, but I didn’t.

I don’t do the traverse on the 2nd pitch of Son of Easy O often, generally preferring to do the route in a single straight-up pitch these days, and the traverse was sandy but still not hard. It seemed like a pain to get in gear–easier to keep moving on big holds–but when I got into the corner I realized I needed another piece for my second (who wasn’t Todd).  I backed through the traverse and hung straight-armed as I tinkered around looking for the right piece, my gear-brain sluggish from months of inactivity.  The first sling tied itself into a knot so Gordian upon being untripled that I gave up on that one altogether and started with a fresh one.  It was a silly amount of hanging off my arms but I couldn’t hear the clock ticking.  I had the thought, “I’m not smart, but I’m strong,” and wished Todd was in conversational distance so I could share it with him.  It turned out later he wasn’t even paying attention, having wandered off to solo up and help people on Baby or some typical Todd move.  Eventually I was able to move back into the corner and finish the pitch.

I am strong now, no question.  With strength comes confidence that I can handle obstacles, because I have reserves.  I could have hung after placing, but there was no physical need and my head was cool and quiet.  I was frustrated with my bungling but had no need to rush.  It was a good start to the season and a beautiful day to be climbing.

With Todd and Lisa:
Something Interesting, 5.7 (Dawn)
Star Action, 5.10 (Todd)
Graveyard Shift, 5.10 (TR)
Son of Easy O, 5.8 (P1 & 2: Dawn)

Shhh! Be wery wery quiet. I’m going caving.

There will be no specifics in this caving story because cavers are secretive people and if I tell you where I went they’ll have to kill me. Cavers are also pretty serious people. There are a lot more rules to crawling around on your stomach in the dark than you might expect. I only willfully (and wrongly) touched something once. Generally, I learn quick when yelled at. But I couldn’t stop smashing my helmeted head into the cave roof when crawling through constricted spaces. I seem to have an irrepressible need to pick my head up to see where I’m going. I didn’t mind the impact, which generates more noise than pain in a helmet. I just felt bad that I kept inadvertently impacting the fragile environment. On the other hand, whacking your head against the ceiling is arguably more pleasant than muddy boots in your face, which is what happens if you slither too fast without looking.

My friend Tim said that caving is like anchovies: you either love it or hate it. I guess that’s as good a place to start this story as any because my reaction was very middle ground. As with skydiving, I enjoyed it and would do it again if an occasion came my way (bonus points to caving for being much cheaper than skydiving), but I don’t think I’d go very far out of my way for it. And as with canyoneering, my prevailing impression was more appropriate to the day than to the sport, e.g. canyoneering was cold; caving was muddy.

On the “hate it” side, I don’t have any of the the fears that might make caving scary for some people. I only feel claustrophobic in traffic and I’m small enough that I figure if someone else can get through there, I can too. Properly outfitted in Cathy’s knee pads, Neal’s coveralls, and leather gloves I bought for navigating the spiny cliff-tops at Cayman Brac, the belly-squirming was reasonably comfortable and just challenging enough to be fun without being frustrating (if only I could have kept my head down).

I have great night vision so I’ve never had a fear of the dark, not that I could have seen in the caves without headlamp assistance, but it wasn’t something I worried about. Twice we all turned our headlamps off together to enjoy the dark. I’d have liked to have kept them off a little longer to see if my eyes ever did adjust to the point where I could see shapes at least, but in the time I had, they never did.

The little climbing we needed to do was slimy but within my comfort range. The torrential rains I was being blamed for bringing to California (oops, I just revealed that the caves were in the state of California) had made the cave entrances in particular muddy. Since most of the climbing was near an entrance, it was all pretty wet. Leather gloves have better friction than I’d have expected and “three points of contact,” as we were frequently reminded by one of the trip leaders, were enough to keep me safe and steady. I have to be honest and say that I probably enjoyed the climbing moments most. Climbing just feels right to me.

On the “love it” side, I’m perhaps not enough of a nature-worshipper, scientific scholar, or adventurer to get a true charge out of caving. The other beginner in our group was eager to explore the cave on his own, whereas I was content to follow along behind, assured that the way ahead was safely known. I did worm my way into a few rooms and corridors alone but never without checking first and always within easy conversational distance.

The clean, crystallized stalactites were beautiful but generally the caves were a dim, muddy brown. The best view was lying on your back in a small room, the sparkling stalactites just beyond your nose. Cathy and Mark, our trip leaders, pointed out and named the cave features for us. I learned to recognize ribbons, soda straws, and bacon. As Cathy said, they name things kind of simply in caving. If it looks like bacon, they call it bacon.

We were warned not to step on the millipedes or any other “wildlife” we might encounter. They’re precious and rare and adapted and so on. When we finally came across one of these millipedes, I recognized the creature that infests the Gunks and offered to ship them a few million if they were running short. I’m told they’re not the same, but I’m pretty sure ours would do in a pinch. Later we saw another creature which I’d have called a centipede, not a millipede, because it looked mean. It wasn’t as big as the one I saw in Mexico but it looked just as lethal, in a small way. No one had to warn me not to touch that one, and as for the other ones–I’ve already touched more of those than I like to think about.

After exploring three caves, we peeled off our muddy clothes. Cathy had warned me to wear clothes I didn’t care about, but I had seriously underestimated the grime factor. Fortunately, Neal’s coveralls held up well so none of my clothes got ripped, but I had a good appreciation for how important those coveralls were. Without them, I’d have been writing off a good long-sleeved tech shirt and maybe my water-resistant, cool-weather climbing pants. My new headlamp turned out to be bright enough and my helmet washed off, so thanks to Cathy’s outfitting I had everything I needed except a clean pair of shoes to wear on the drive back home.

It was a fun day with good people and some interesting memories but no new titles to add after my name. I’m still a climber first, a runner second, and trying to learn to be more adventurous and spontaneous third.

Thanksgiving Spread

Running with Kevin the Monday before Thanksgiving, I mentioned that I had nothing whatsoever planned for the four day weekend. I didn’t mind. It sounded like a nice relaxing weekend, a chance to catch up on chores, pay some bills, vacuum, maybe watch a game or two.

But I have too many friends and too many interests for four empty days to stay empty.

Wednesday night I started the weekend off right with yoga and Pho. Not too many years ago I’d never heard of Pho and although I could work through a few yoga poses, I found all that breathing and meditating annoying. It was Steve who taught me to appreciate both, so it made sense to start a weekend of Thanksgiving off by enjoying them both with him.

My Thanksgiving dinner materialized in the form of a phone call from my best friend Sheila. She was in charge of the turkey and trimmings and I was in charge of the martinis. Peter brought pie, Chris whipped out the Trivial Pursuit, and I staggered home at one in the morning feeling more like New Year’s than Thanksgiving but deeply grateful to have had these people (and Sheila’s cooking) in my life for all these years.

Luckily I had run earlier that day on a cool, damp, quiet morning at the West Hartford Reservoir, my feet crunching on fallen leaves, my pace easy and comfortable. I followed that run up with another one Friday morning and finished with a third run Saturday. Four days off equals three days of running. There’s something wrong with my math, but nothing wrong with the pleasure I take in feeling my body move.

I couldn’t run Sunday because the weather was too nice. And that meant climbing again. I’d already made it to the gym Friday afternoon for an unusual weekday get together of the Tuesday/Thursday gym crowd. The crowd has morphed through the ten plus years I’ve been climbing but the goodwill and camaraderie remain the same. These are my “peeps” and no one can talk me out of enjoying gym climbing.

But Sunday, ah Sunday. The temperature was a ridiculously high 50 and to the Gunks we must go. Steven, one of my oldest and dearest partners, and Brien, one of my newest and dearest partners, and I made slow, heavy work out of our beautiful day. I bungled my attempted lead of Try Again to the point that no one got to climb all of it and the only one who got to climb any of it was me (try, try again). I was annoyed and thought maybe it had ruined my season or at least the day but then we went and did Frog’s Head and Maria and I defy you to have a ruined day after that.

I haven’t even mentioned the show Friday night or meeting my old friend Jesse for drinks Saturday. Friday night I saw a good show on a phenomenal set in the place I call my second home, the place I’m not at often but couldn’t stand to lose. I also saw some friends I hadn’t seen in a long time courtesy of a Facebook post. Then Saturday afternoon I saw my bestest buddy from 5th grade courtesy of another Facebook hookup. Facebook is a pretty cool thing.

At the end of the weekend, I counted one yoga session, three runs, two days climbing, two dinners out with friends, one dinner in with friends, drinks with an old buddy, and a play. There was no vacuuming, no bill paying, no “black Friday.” I got NOTHING done.

Yeah, it was that good.

Strictly from Nowhere, 5.7+ (P1: Steven)
Try Again
Frog’s Head, 5.6 (P1 & 2: Brien)
Maria P2, 5.4 (Dawn)

The fat lady refuses to sing

Still November, still climbing. I begin to wonder if the season will ever end.

I climbed Wrist for the first time. I don’t know if I was on-route for the first pitch but that’s sure an eye opener of a second pitch. We’re always complaining about the sandbagged ratings at my gym, but we don’t have 6’s like Wrist or 7’s like Limelight. Nor do I fall off 8’s at the gym the way I fell off Arrow Saturday. Until 5.8 is no sure thing, we’d better just be thankful for the ratings we do have.

With Veronica, Dawn led all
Arrow, 5.8
Limelight, 5.7
Wrist, 5.6

November what-now?

What a beautiful weekend.

Saturday morning it was a little chilly waiting for the start of the Air Line Ghost Rail Run, but not as bad as I’d feared. I went into the race with low motivation. My last tempo run hadn’t gone well and I wondered why I was choosing to run 13.1 miles alone and freezing in a local, nothing-special race. When I’d signed up I’d hoped to run the half marathon at my Boston goal pace as a step on my way to Boston. Friday night I was feeling significantly less confident.

But the day dawned bright and sunny and 40 degrees didn’t feel as bad as it could. There was no mile marker for the first mile and by the time I saw the mile 2 marker I was ridiculously ahead of pace. I forced myself to slow down a little but still came in ahead of pace for the next several miles. By mid-race, I was running on target and at the mile 8 marker, I was feeling great and enjoying the day. The trail was beautiful–through woods and past water–and the footing was perfect: just slightly softer than asphalt. I thought I’d do another few miles at goal pace and then go all-out for the last two and bring it in way ahead of time.

The race had other plans. The last five miles were uphill, most especially the 9th mile. But all of them after that were mostly, if not completely, sloped gently in the wrong direction. I was later told that the first five miles were all downhill, which might explain those faster-than-expected times. But struggling through the end of that race was frustrating and disheartening as I saw one mile after another come in way over goal pace. I kept pushing harder–or trying to–and kept falling off-pace. The scenery was no longer enough to attract my attention, the day was getting warm, the jacket hot. My head was full of grumbly thoughts.

There was–too little, too late–a steepish downhill to the finish line and I pounded it as hard as I could. I can’t do math in my head while running but I knew I hadn’t hit my time. Still, I was feeling good about having stayed with it. I never quit, never went less hard than I thought I could. As I crossed the finish line, I saw the clock flash 1:45:01 and the miles of struggle dropped away. Somehow I had done it. Just.

There was food at the finish and a lovely awards ceremony in which almost everyone won something (including me). I realized what a good training run this had been for Boston after all, not just hitting my goal pace but having to face an uphill battle at the end of the run. Heartbreak Hill, here I come!

Sunday was one of those perfect days at the Gunks made more perfect by being unexpected. Climbing at the Nears in the morning we were bathed in a gentle autumn sunlight. Steve and I made quick work of our routes until mid-afternoon when I suddenly felt all ambition drain away. The day before’s race and the quick, though not rushed, pace we’d been climbing at took their toll and thoughts of leading Lower Eaves or Fly Again fled.

I told Steve I wasn’t feeling ambitious anymore and he suggested something long, fun, and easy to finish the day so we went to do one of my favorite end-of-day routes: City Lights to the to the top in one pitch. Unfortunately, it wasn’t free. Thinking there wasn’t a lot of difference between them, I detoured to Pas de Deux. There my low energy caught up to me and it was a different climber whining about being pumped with bad gear fifteen feet off the ground than the one who’d cruised up Inverted Layback like she had it wired earlier (OK, I do kind of have it wired).

Steve belayed patiently until I got some gear in and then I forced my way through the crux and ran up the rest of the long, extended pitch to the top enjoying what remained of the day. We rapped off in growing gloom and walked out into the sunset, hoping this wasn’t the last weekend this season but thinking it had been a hell of a good one if it was.

Sunday with Steve:
Te Dum, 5.7 (P1: Steve, P2: Dawn)
Inverted Layback, 5.9 (P1 & 2: Dawn)
Birdland, 5.8 (P1: Steve, P2: Dawn)
Walter Mitty, 5.8 (Steve)
Pas de Deux, 5.8 (P1 & 2: Dawn)

Running friendly, running blind

There was a time when I wondered why I found myself running more and climbing less, so I ticked off all the reasons why running can be awfully more convenient than climbing. One of them was that you don’t need a partner to run. Still, a partner can be fun.

Friday night my stepbrother Graham said that a bunch of people were meeting Saturday morning to run before his wedding. I’d brought my running stuff out to California with me but expected to be going solo for my planned medium-long run. A gang of wedding-party runners sounded like a fun time. Graham mentioned he had a friend prepping for an Ironman-length triathlon who was going to be doing a really long run and I considered how many miles I was willing to do with him. But first, the all-important question: what’s your pace?

Jim told me later that Graham doesn’t really train. He goes out and runs, but he doesn’t train. He has no idea what his training pace is, so he misled me a little. Still, assuming there’d be many folks of various levels in this group–and although I’m not fast, I’m hardly slow–I showed up at the appointed time and found that Graham, his triathlon-bound friend Jim, and our uncle Martin were the only other dedicated souls who’d made it out of bed and into running shoes the morning after a night of open bar and karaoke.

Early into the run, Jim and I found a mutually comfortable pace and took off. The thing was, we were chatting. There’s nothing like running with a new, evenly-matched partner to make the conversation easy and the pace fast. The day was perfect once the fog lifted shortly after we started and the view running along the beach in Monterrey was incredible. Jim and I did 10 or 11 miles together before I left him to battle through the rest of his long run.

I had a great weekend at Graham and Jane’s wedding, but I may always remember that run as the best moment. Best wishes, Graham and Jane, and best of luck in that triathlon, Jim.

Last night I explored another aspect of the many ways in which running is more convenient than climbing: I ran in the dark. Running trails by headlamp, the only human (you hope) around for miles, is an exhilarating, unnerving experience. But it is doable. And probably not half as crazy as it sounds. Running in the dark, you feel fast. Whether it’s the extra adrenalin or the blur of the unseen landscape around you or just the youthfulness of running into the unknown, I can’t say. The wolves howling in the distance added just the right touch (wolves howling nearby would have been a touch too far).

This weekend I’m hoping to split again–one day running, one day climbing. But the weekends where I run now significantly outweigh the weekends where I climb, even though I climb as much as I possibly can. Weather, partners, darkness, geography. Climbing can be inconvenient. I’m so glad I have running to balance the load. My life is a happier place for it.

Send

I was driving home from the Gunks tonight, very focused on the fact that I was taking the back roads instead of 87, when the idiot light came on to warn me that I was getting low on gas. It was a surprise. Somehow I’d driven all the way to the Gunks that morning without once thinking about whether or not I could drive back. If the light hadn’t come on, I’m not sure when, or if, I’d have noticed at all.

Technology has brought us many things, like idiot lights and the undo button. Wouldn’t it be nice if we could apply those to life?

Steven led Le Teton cleanly today after backing off it once before. Where he backed off from was about one move away from being done. He told me he kicked himself over that for weeks. Been there, done the kicking. How about a nice undo button to go back to that point in time and pull the one move? Then there would be success instead of failure. Confidence goes up and the next week you lead a little harder, climb a little bolder. A season can hinge on one move and nothing can undo the lack of it.

But sometimes that one move would be a total mistake. Sometimes you need the idiot light: warning, you’re climbing into ground fall range and your last piece sucks and you can’t actually do this next move. Danger, danger. Would you like to re-think? Because a bad fall can derail a season worse than a bad lead.

So I’d like both. The idiot light would give me a heads up, but I’d press on anyway. Which is when the undo button could be useful. Iterative edits, like writing an email. Only climbing–life–is analogous to sending the email. There is no unsend button. Committed is committed. Mistake or not, you live with the results.

Which can be good. Which you don’t know. Until you hit send.


Steven leading Le Teton


Me following Le Teton


Me leading Commando Rave


Me, Mark, and Steven atop the Madame G’s Buttress

Hyjek’s Horror, 5.8- (Dawn)
Le Teton, 5.9 (Steven)
Commando Rave, 5.9 (Dawn)
Balrog, 5.10 (Mark)

I know things now, many valuable things

Once upon a time, like all of us, I was a beginner. I had to be belayed across ledges and talked through cleaning an anchor. I didn’t know a right-facing corner from a left-facing corner or an Alien from a Camalot. I climbed what I was pointed at and took unexpected falls and couldn’t remember, at the end of the day, the names of the routes I’d climbed.

As an intermediate climber, I knew just enough to be dangerous. They say this is when you’re most likely to get hurt and I sure tried. I could manage myself, but I still relied on my partners to manage the team. I wouldn’t take out a beginner of my own, figuring I was only barely keeping myself alive.

People got me through these phases–important, cherished, generous, appreciated people. Geoff, Steven, and Todd taught me more than can be catalogued. My brain is teeming with advice, warnings, best practices, worst case scenarios, examples, samples, and trivia. I didn’t even realize how much I know (how much I owe) until I heard myself spewing it back out in what must have been a rather tedious flow of information to Irene and Matt on Sunday.

The kicker was Modern Times. Yes, I know all the gear and all the moves and where the secret rest is, but more than that. I know where to belay so I can hear my second. I can manage a party of three. I know that two 60 meter ropes will probably (but not certainly) get you down in one rap. But especially, after all the years of worrying first about whether I could follow MT cleanly and later about whether my partner could, it turns out I can deal with it when one can’t.

Bonnie’s Roof, 5.8 (P1 & 2: Dawn)
Sleepwalk, 5.7 (Irene)
Modern Times, 5.8 (P1: Irene; P2: Dawn)

80% chance of millipedes

I think a millipede may be the most disgusting creature ever. In case you’ve never seen one before (and before I started climbing at the Gunks, I hadn’t), here’s a link to Millipede Facts. Millipedes are unavoidable at the Gunks but this weekend they were swarming, along with killer ladybugs (sure, they’re cute but they bite) and autumn-drunk wasps. Our other local parasite, the leaf peeper, is also beginning to make its annual appearance.

Despite the above griping, it was a beautiful day in the neighborhood. An early mist caused us no harm and in fact produced one of the most striking views of the Gunks I’ve ever had. From the GT ledge on Something Interesting, I looked back over my shoulder and saw blue skies above and a socked-in valley below. It gave the illusion of being thousands of feet in the air above the cloud line, like looking out an airplane window except that my view wasn’t limited by a porthole-shaped pane of Plexiglas. A red prop plane flew by at about eye level, completing the illusion.

I had only one goal for the day, which was Try Again, a 5.10 that I’ve followed a handful of times through the years and felt it was time to lead. The wetness on Something Interesting, while not unexpected after a hard rain, was putting me off of trying Try Again. Fortunately I was able to find someone at the Mac wall familiar enough with the route to know what it’d be like after a rain. He gave me the thumbs up, so up I went.

I was probably most worried about the jump move. For the first x number of times I tried Try Again, I couldn’t do that move. I’m soooo not a jumper. I finally found a static way to do the move, but it was a long, gearless lock-off, high-step thing off a ledge that I wasn’t sure I’d have the guts to pull off on lead. So Sunday I started the move before I had time to reconsider and in a second it was done. Bill, who’d given me the wetness-beta and who was leading Coex next to me, said “nice work” and the glow carried me up to the crux.

Somewhere in the middle of the crux I forgot a key hold and by the time I found it I knew I was too pumped to finish the crux sequence so I said a surprisingly calm “Falling, Brien” and let go. On my second try I found all the holds and finished the crux sequence to take a few steadying breaths before making the final delicate move to the next place you get gear. Grabbing that lip where I was going to stuff in a cam for all I was worth, I let out a holler. Even considering the fall, maybe especially considering the fall, it was a great success.

For the rest of the day, we climbed 7s with speed and style. The Gunks are a magnificent place to climb 7s.

Something Interesting, 5.7 (P1: Dawn; P2: Brien)
Fly Again, 5.10 (Dawn)
Overhanging Layback, 5.7 (P1: Brien; P2: Dawn)
Dry Martini, 5.7 (P1: Dawn; P2 & 3: Brien)

It’s the climb

Steve asks: Why do we need goals? and I’m going to answer with some lyrics from a Miley Cryus song, as lame as knowing the lyrics to a Miley Cyrus song may be:

There’s always gonna be another mountain
I’m always gonna wanna make it move
Always gonna be an uphill battle,
Sometimes I’m gonna have to lose
Ain’t about how fast I get there,
Ain’t about what’s waiting on the other side
It’s the climb

I’ve pontificated about this before, but Steve’s post for this weekend and my overall weekend experience have me thinking on the subject again. I think we, or maybe I just mean I, have to be striving to be living, to be engaged in life and not sleep-walking through it. As Miley says, it’s not the mountain; it’s the climb.

This was a weekend where all that uphill slogging paid off. Friday I ran five miles at my marathon goal pace (leaving a mere 21.2 to go). Saturday I led a pitch I’d previously backed off of and didn’t even find it hard. Sunday I ran off-road with Steve and Kevin, not comfortably but without slowing them down much. Monday morning I have sore glutes, bruised knees, memories, and, always, goals.

Hi Coroner, 5.9 (P1, 2 & 3: Dawn)
Try Again, 5.10 (Todd)
Coexistence, 5.10 (TR)
Pink Laurel, 5.9 (P1: Todd; P2: Dawn)
Something Scary, 5.10 (Todd)
Double Clutch, 5.9 (TR)