Love Shack Wall
Orange Cave
Wave Wall
East Bluff (a.k.a. Edd's Place)
Northeast Point
Neptune's Lair
Dixon's Wall
Appendix
Routes Established By
Acknowledgements

LOVE SHACK WALL: A five-minute walk from Bluff View; located 2.7 miles east of the Ashton Reid Road (also known as the "Bluff Road") on the South Side Road, it is identifiable by its left angling crack. Shade late in the day in winter, around noon by mid-April. Steep, clean, pocketed rock. Routes are listed left to right.

***Mild Virus; 12b. 6 bolts, 2 ring bolt anchor, first bolt is an obvious stick clip. Hard start, harder finish. JE

****Leapin' Lizzards; Ti, 11d/12a. 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip the first. Make a huge throw to a bucket, then a huge throw to a bucket, then a huge throw - you get the idea! Somewhat smaller moves lead to a solid incisor...pull that tooth! Incredible! JE, LG, & DN

***Bat(s) in Brac; 12c/d. 7 bolts, 2 ring bolt anchor. Crux is right off the deck! Top is a series of dance-like moves through devious pockets and edges...sequential. Magnificent! Please be kind to the bats living in first huge hueco, they'll squeak at you but are harmless, (warm, fuzzy & cute, too)! LG

***Parrot-Trooper; Ti, C, 12b/c. 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, stick clip. And a trooper you'll have to be to pull through. Stay on the smooth face dancing to find just the right (in-the-mono) sequence. LG

*** Throwin' the Hoola Girl; Ti, 12a. 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A Houdini route; moves are never quite what they seem. If it appears hard, it's easy - and vice versa. JE

***Bric-a-Brac Crack; 12a. 6 bolts, 2 ring bolt anchor, shares last bolt & anchor with Throwin' the Hoola Girl. Left diagonaling seam. Use pockets at start and cross crack near the finish. LG & JE

THE ORANGE CAVE (just past the Great Cave): park at the East end of the South Side Road. Take a pleasant ten-minute stroll further east until you're opposite the orange cave then hike up to the base. Routes listed left to right.

CAUTION: if you toprope Goin' to Cayman or Orange Fantasea be aware that rope-stretch combined with the boulders at the cave mouth means a very slim margin for a climber who falls low on either route! Stand up to belay and keep the rope tight!

*Feeding Frenzy; 10d. 10 bolts, 2 ring bolt anchor. Starts out the right side of a cave that has obvious chipping done by islanders collecting Caymanite. The first bolt is on an arete-like feature, and is high and hard to see. SH

***Chum Buckets; Ti, C, 10b/c. 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Big moves on big holds. Look for fossils. SH (historical note: The first route on the Brac).

**Goin' to Cayman with a Snorkel in My Jeans; Ti, C, 10c. 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. If you like 'em big you'll like this. Have steady nerves or a stick-clip for the first bolt. CL

*Orange Fantasea; Ti, C, 11b. 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shares anchor w/ above route). Start inside the cave on the right. Gritty but fun hueco pulling leads to a butt rest. Pulling the lip is easier than it looks. Crux bites you at the black bulge. Use long slings on the second and third bolts to avoid rope drag. CL

**L' Orangerie; Ti, C, 5.8d. 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A fun short route to get you used to the Cayman thing. Stays dry even in pouring rain. SH

The following route is 150' East of the Orange Cave at a low roof.

***Ick! Theology! (I'd Rather Study Cod); Ti, C, 10b. 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. After piling cheater stones as high as your conscience allows, boulder past a bolt (crux, height dependent) , continue to a small cave, then haul steep jugs to the top. EH/SB/AP

The WAVE WALL: is located about twenty minutes walking past The Orange Cave and offers a wide variety of quality routes. Unfortunately, it is only approachable during calm seas. Boots and gloves recommended for this approach. Shade in the afternoon, about 2:00 pm in winter, earlier in spring.

Hike east on the ironshore towards two huge boulders, the first of which has a sharp, pointy top. Pass above this rock, then below the second one, a somewhat retangular pinnacle. If you can't pass below this rock due to the waves (even by timing your crossing between waves) then you probably won't be able to cross the sloping shingle beyond either.

Now scrample through a boulder field at mid-height and do a 3rd class traverse (when dry) across sloping rock to one of several nice shelves. Big waves can make this section extremely dangerous.

Routes: listed left to right.

****Get it Together; 12d. 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Get it together to pull onto the slab after fighting the steep. JE

***Pirates of Penance; Ti, 12a. 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Steep jugs lead to a sequential crux. JE

****Pirates of Piss Ants; 12d. 6 bolts, 2 ring bolt anchor. Ultra-classic power pocket pulling. Several ways to do the crux, all keep the grade. LG

****Conched Out; Ti, 10d. 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. After deciphering the starting moves (climb directly over the bolts), pull through beautiful Caymanite bands and crystal grape-clusters in a small cave! Shares last bolt and anchor with Frolickin' Frigates. LG

***Frolickin' Frigates; Ti, 10c. 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Climb up to a ledge, and then crank directly over the bolt on the finger of rock (or worm your way around it). Now facee the pump to the anchors. LG

You can recognize the next two climbs by the vertical, white rock which leads into a shallow alcove, then up to a long roof, and over this to a vertical headwall. A 55m or longer rope recommended, although you can lower/rap twice by using the Ray's Gar and Krill anchor and a 50m rope.

***Reef on This!; Ti, C, 10d. 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Pick a hold, any hold...until the finish. Shares the anchor with Parrot Preserves. LG

****Parrot Preserves on Rye; Ti, C, 11a. 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Climb moderate rock to the overhang and the technical crux above. See Reef on This. LG

Variations:

*Jumbo Shrimp; Ti, 10c 2 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A short extension to Reef on This and Parrot Preserves which will get you to the top of the bluff and within 15 minutes of the Spiral Staircase area. Combine with either route for one long, four-star pitch. A two-rope rappel or multiple raps with one rope. EH

**Ray's Gar and Krill; Ti, 5.8. 3-4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Climb either Reef on This or Parrot Preserves to a two-bolt anchor below the big overhang. EH

***Unsuspecting Remora; Ti, C, 12a 7 bolts, 3 fixed threads, 2 bolt anchor. Climb pockets up a smooth black and white streaked face (watch out for shark-bite!) to a rest. Steep jugs left of the cave lead to a devious, difficult finish. EH

***Shooting the Curl; Ti, C, 10a. 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Immediate crux then overhanging buckets to a large cave. Experience the exposed finish by climbing out of the cave to the right. Take a long sling for the bolt in the cave. SH

**Hang Ten; Ti, C, 10d. 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A difficult start leads (finally!) to a good rest. Use it, 'cause it overhangs the rest of the way, with a difficult blind finish! Shares the anchor with New Wave. SH

***New Wave; Ti, C, 10b. 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. After a stiff start, jug-haul into a small cave; crux at final bolts. JE

***Old School; Ti, C, 5.8. 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Steep and fun. If you're not on a bucket, you're off route. JE

The EAST BLUFF (aka Edd's Place): See description for the Northeast Point for directions to the Lighthouse. From the lighthouse find a faint path heading southeast to the cliff edge and then turn to the right. The walk can be difficult but in general the cliff edge is the easiest walking. You will pass three square, concrete "DOS" markers along the cliff edge. Don't worry if you miss one.

From the lighthouse, 20 minutes of non-stop hiking will put you in an area with no large vegetation near the bluff edge, near DOS #154. From here you can see huge boulders in the ocean 100' beyond that, and a huge buttress yet another 100' farther. You should also see a pair of palms (10' apart) standing alone and another pair of palms 80 yards beyond them. Walk to the second pair of palms where the vegetation gets really thick. From here, angle left through the vegetation to the cliff-edge (DOS #155). The climbs are 150' farther. Spiral Staircase has a cairn and is tagged.

Shade about 2 pm in mid-winter, earlier otherwise. Total approach is .7 miles and can take anywhere from 40 - 60 minutes. There is a Boobie colony near DOS 154 (Bessie Howard Cay), please give it a wide berth.

****Spiral Staircase; Ti, T, 10a. 2/12/2. One of the island's best! Climb smooth pocketed rock to a cave; head back out and ascend the spiral staircase or crank straight over the bolt. Check out the window into the cave at ceiling level. Shares lower belay with Limestone Pirate. JE

****Limestone Pirate; Ti, 11a. 2/12/2. Steep and excellent! Fun moves with a couple of interesting reaches. Shares Staircase lower belay. Top anchor is somewhat hard to find from above, just under a small overhang. JE

Lizz's New Route; 11d?. 2/12?/2. Shares Pirate top belay???. ????? LG

***Jumpin'; 11d/12a. 2/10/2. Surprise holds; obvious big move at beautiful Caymanite shelf. Might as well jump! JY

THE NORTHEAST POINT: Drive down the Lighthouse (Major Donald) Road about 6 miles (paved about half-way) to the east end of the island. Park at the lighthouse and follow the trail left. After approximately 100 yards, there is a cairn along the trail. From the cairn, walking straight out to the edge will place you between two large bushes with a tall palm to the right. The first route to the west of the first bush is M' Divin'. The first route to the east (walk through bush) is Renegade. Routes listed right to left as you look out over the water and all require rappel access. Look for tortugas and dolphins! Shade almost all day in winter, starts to get sun in mid-March.

*What's the Point; Ti, T, 5.9. 2/13/2. From the cairn angle slightly right to the very NE Point of the island. Nice bucket pulling...a little run out if 9 is your limit and sharp at the top. Anchors a bit over the edge on a slab. May be hazardous on big wave days. One day the waves broke OVER my belayer, and left her scared but dry! GB

***S.O.S.; 12a. 2/10/2. Just left of What's the Point; anchors are well hidden on a slab below a block. Steep, big holds, harder if you're height impaired. CL

Pillage & Plunder; 11a/c. 2/13/2. Just left of S.O.S.; anchors are well over the edge. CL

****Freedom; Ti,T, 12c. 2/17/2. Anchors are just below the left side of a large block. Three 5.12 cruxes ranging from technical to mono pulling to a final roof haul. LG & JE

****Throwin' the Tortuga; Ti, 11b. 2/11/2. 5' left of Freedom; anchors are next to a diagonaling crack that splits the cliff edge. Shares bottom belay with Freedom. Beautiful huecos filled with globular crystals lead to an airy orange arete. Then up a steep flake system and over a bulge to the finale - a technical crux. Rock & Ice #69 cover photo! JE

***A Porcupine Named Fluffy; 11c. 2/10/2. 12' left of Tortuga. Look for a ledge with a small bush just over the edge. Named for Hopi Elison's favorite bedtime book. Devious technical crux. T. JE

****Habeas Porpoise; 12a/b. 2/3/2. Direct start to Fluffy. Approach from Fluffy or as described in the Tortuga description. The overhanging and traversing nature of this variation makes it easier to approach from Tortuga. Traverses just above the swell on perfectly smooth rock and very positive pockets...power moves. Excellent. JE

****Renegade; 11d/12a. 2/13/2. Shares top anchor and last bolt with Fluffy. Begins with big pulls over a steep bulge, continues up a beautiful corner, then finishes on steep technical face. Start & finish are the cruxes. T. LG

Between Renegade and M' Divin' is a large bush which you can walk through.

**M' Divin'; 10d. 2/11/1. 10' left of large bush. Top anchor bolt is 3' back from cliff edge in a large hueco - look down. Nice fossils along the way. CL

***The Devil Wears Flippers; Ti,T, 11a. 2/16/2. 6' left of Divin'; anchors are drilled straight down in a pothole at the cliff edge. Girth hitch these with long slings to prevent cross-loading your biners. Long, sustained, steep; don't give up...hidden buckets just when you need em'! Trends left, then right; take a long sling for the left-most clip. CL

***Spermy the Whale; Ti, 11c/d. 2/14/2. 5' left of Devil. Shares The Devil Wears Flippers belay. Nifty long diagonal huecos above the low crux. Technical and sustained. JE

***Baby Beluga; 12b. 2/13/0. 5' left of Spermy; directly out from the bush. Named in honor of Wally Raker. Technical small holds at low crux...more sustained than other Brac routes. Finish straight over the last few bolts to keep the grade. JE

****Hermy the Crab; 12a/b. 2/10/1. 5' left of Beluga; one anchor bolt right next to the edge. Shares Shiver Me Timbers bottom belay then moves left to crack. Continues to offset corner & crux. Ahhh, finally a bucket...finish left following the better quality rock. JE

Approach the next climb by staying on the trail and walking past the cairn about 24 yards, then angling back right towards a palm that's on the edge of the bluff. This avoids bushwhacking on the cliff edge.

***Shiver Me Timbers; Ti, 10b. 2/13/2. Located in the first big dihedral with a convenient palm tree. Two ways to do the crux make it 10a (right) to 10c (left). One of the best "tens" on the island. SH

Approach the following by staying on the trail for about 75 yards past the first cairn. At this point, you'll find a fading red arrow painted on the trail and two cairns. Go where the arrow points, and take the easiest-looking path towards the cliff edge, then angle right to a narrow break in the brush. This will put you a few feet right of Blackbeard's Revenge.

**Blackbeard's Revenge; Ti, T, C, 10b. 2/9/2 rings. Find the top anchor bolt just below a flat shelf in a square-cut alcove. Shares Walking the Plank bottom belay, so you can do both routes without moving the rappel rope. Interesting line with fun moves on duos, edges, and side-pulls. SH

***Walking the Plank; Ti, 10b/c. 2/12/2. Top anchor is 10' left of Blackbeard's and right of No Problem, Mon. Bottom belay is a bit to the left when rappelling. Nifty big pulls over the bulge; grab the handle! It eases in the black & orange dihedral before more big pulls lead to the blind crux. SH

**No Problem, Mon; Ti, C, 10a. 2/9/2. Top anchors in a big dihedral. Perfect belay ledge is to your left on rappel. Go right to an arete/bulge. Stay right of the bolts for the best rock, up and over to easy photogenic moves on the white arete. Make a pretty step-across to the belay stance. SH

****Porpoise Christi; Ti, C, 11b. 2/4/2. Direct start to No Problem, Mon. Exquisite white limestone, big pulls, big holds! It can be top roped from No Problem belay ledge, but it's a unique leads with a memorable lower belay. JE

To approach the next route continue on the main trail about 100 yards past the No Problem, Mon area. A 3' high bush fills the trail making it obvious to step around it to the right. 20' past this bush head for the cliff edge.

*Coral Beef; 10b. 2/11/2. Top anchor is on the very edge of a slab just below a white block that forms a corner. Smooth corner takes you to fragile coral-like fins. Devious crux at very top. T. JE

To locate the Wall of the Early Morning Flight follow trail approximately 150 yards past the No Problem, Mon red arrow to a cairn and palm tree stump on right. Look towards ocean for a square, concrete "DOS" marker and a big bush. Routes begin right of DOS marker.

**Holy Huecos Batwo-mon; Ti, 5.10c. 2/14/2 This route catches spray from breaking waves during certain surf conditions. Besides making the route smarmy, rogue waves can innundate the belay and first few bolts! More than one person has gone through the wash cycle and it's never on Delicate. Examine the surf from the top before committing. You can belay at the higher set of anchors (30' higher), making the route about 10a. LG

****Spine-less; Ti, T, 11d; 2/15/2. Top anchor is located straight out from the large bush, on the right side of a triangular block. Look for the bolts just below a 4 inch overlap. Shares Holy Huecos belay at bottom and the Chicken belay at the top. Travel up incredibly smooth steep hueco-ed rock. Enter a rest cavern with optional thread (needs replacing). Straight up and out to an incredible tricky thin crispy finish. LG

****Chicken of the Sea; Ti, T, 12a. 2/10/2. Shares Spine-less anchors at top. Incredible & sustained, possibly the best route on the island! Follow the big holds past the last bolt for a true "photo finish" or head straight for the anchor. Four stars do not do it justice. Terrific drama on the high seas! Don't forget to look around at the stunning view, most airy! JE

****Hot Tuna; Ti, 12a. 2/8/2. New Top anchors only! Bottom anchors in a cave hueco. Follow smooth white rock. T. LG

*?Tune-A-Fish; 12/13?. 2/16?/2. Shares top belay with Hot Tuna. Smooth fun huecos to thin crimper crux. Seems hold-less but it's not! LG

****Turtles All the Way Down; 11d. 2/9 + a thread (sling in place)/1. Located directly below concrete survey marker marked DOS. Powerful lockoff crux. A second crux awaits on a seemingly holdless span. Last 15' feet are sharp! JW

****Neon Goby; 12b. 2/17/2. 15' left of Turtles. Slab to overhang to steep, devious. Two cruxes. JE

*Beach Fire; Ti,C, 10c. 0/7/2/6/2 (2 pitches) 150' past Neon Goby, rap a chimney system past a nasty ledge to a unique and very isolated rock "beach" (great position). Climb back out in two pitches, starting with a left arching crack system. The first pitch (crux) is steep and excellent, unfortunately the second is mostly just pointy. EH, SRB

***Mud Falcon; 5.11b Ti. Top-rope variation to Beach Fire. Thread the intermediate anchors on your way down (they're in a shallow groove off to the left as you face the wall), and top-rope the steep straight-in crack system. VW

The Tsunami Wall has been closed to protect a colony of nesting Brown Boobies.

NEPTUNE'S LAIR: A very intimate and unique setting. Park at east end of the North Side road in the Spot Bay turnaround. Follow the trail and then walk the beach toward the big pointed rock in the sea and the micro-island "Little Cayman Brac." If calm, stay close to the water when entering the boulder area. Otherwise, you can scamble at mid-height, aiming for the steep white face. The routes face due north and take a long time to dry after being hit with sea spray but after late March, they get late-day sun. About 20-25 minutes from the car.

Routes are described from right to left. Therefore, Calypso is the first route you will encounter as you approach.

The two east-most routes (Medusa and Neptunes' Lair) are located inside the second of two leaning-rock tunnels. Go past Conch-U-Brine and scramble up, back-left and down a short 3rd-class ramp to get around a buttress (or walk below it during calm seas). Pass through the first tunnel. The second "tunnel" is green in color and has some nifty cave features and lava-like flowstone.

***Calypso; Ti, C, ,11c. 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Several cruxes and a throw will sweep you off your feet. LG

**Bird Eggs for Breakfast; Ti, 11a. 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Follow the crack to the cave and then switch gears (shift down for more poweer!) for the rest of the way. LG

****Poseidon; Ti, 12a-ish. 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. This is really steep and has seen one ascent. LG

**The Tempest; 12?. 7 bolts, 2 ring bolt anchor. Open Project LG

**Conch-U-Brine; 12?. 8 bolts, 2 ring bolt anchor. Open Project. LG

NOTE: Medusa and Neptune's Lair share all bolts. Powerful, big-hold climbing on a 35° overhanging wall!

**Neptune's Lair; 12?. 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Climb atop the boulder to clip the first bolt, start as for Medusa or from the boulder. Stay right of the bolts for a unique climb. LG

*Medusa; 12?. 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Climb on top of the boulder to clip the first bolt, down climb, and send the route from the ground. Stay left of the bolts, climb into the Medusa "dreadlocks" to keep the route. LG

DIXON'S WALL: This wall is steeper than it looks and is of the finest quality. North facing, it's shady most of the year. Access to the cliff is through the Dixon's back yards. Please ask permission (always granted); the Dixons are incredibly friendly. Don't swear aloud if it's not your day. Please, do not pull outward on the crucial stalactites on this wall, they will break! Pull straight down ("milk it") instead of pulling out (i.e. don't layback or undercling).

Located 2.1 miles east of La Esperanza on the North Road. Park just west of the school and above the white wall along the road. Walk 50' to the Spot Bay Primary School. The green and white house (with white fence and bunny rabbit rock) next to the crossing zone belongs to Mr. Hindenberg "Burg" Dixon. The house just east belongs to his son Mr. Peter Dixon. Walk up to either front door and knock to get permission. Follow Peter's driveway and wind right through Burg's backyard. Continue straight back along the wire fence. Routes described from left to right when facing the cliff.

***Bussy's Bulge Ti, C, 11c/d. 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. First bolt is located 10' up at lip of two foot overhang. A boulder problem crux between first two bolts leads to a steep enduro finish on buckets. Don't pump out! JE

****Lizzard the Gizzard; Ti, C, 11c/d. 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. You may want to stick-clip the first bolt. Climb in from the left to start. Vertical pocket pulling leads to powerful, sequential, moves through the overhang. Someone recently broke off a key stalactite, making the crux more sustained and significantly changing the sequence. JE & LG

****Dixon's Delight; Ti, C, 11b. 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Begins just right of the end of the barbed-wire fence. Climb straight over the 4th bolt for best moves. Once at the rest, decipher the moves into overhanging territory. JE & LG

****Out of Africa; Ti, 11c/d. 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Start up the grey elephant trunks, and then enter the blank looking mid-section. Finish on the quality cave-like features. JE

***Buffalo Soldier; 12a/b. 10 bolts, 3 ring bolt anchor. Starts 8' right of Africa on more elephant trunks. Pumpy to a crimper crux. JE

Appendix

There is no climbing shop on the island, so bring everything you need.

There is a cell-phone tower and 911 has recently been installed, but climbers should understand and take the responsibility for self rescue.

Routes Established By

George Bracksiek	GB	1995
Jeff "Mort" Elison	JE	1995, 1996, 1997
Lizz Grenard	LG	1995, 1996, 1997
Skip Harper	SH	1994, 1995, 1996, 1997
Craig Luebben	CL	1995
Dave Newton	DN	1996
Jonny Woodward	JW	1996
John Young	JY	1997
Eric Hirst	EH	1998, 2000, 2001
Susan Bolton	SB	1998
Al Pacifico	AP	1998
Vance White	VW	2000
Simone Brisson	SRB	2001

Acknowledgements

I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to the rebolting effort. Their expertise, time, equipment, money and labor were all greatly appreciated: Mike Shelton, Jim Bowes, Skip Harper, Vance "Victor Blanco" White, Eric Hirst, Ken Cline, Sue Rusch, Mike Kleker, Chris Kantarjiev, and Susan Bolton.

Legend
Ti - route has Titanium Tortuga bolts (safe)
C - old bolts have been Cleaned from the route
T - Tagged with a yellow marker for orientation
Bolt counts - e.g. 2/10/1, meaning there is a 2 bolt belay at the bottom, 10 bolts on the route and 1 bolt for an anchor
Routes are listed counter clockwise around the island
Routes requiring rappel access are listed right to left while looking towards ocean.