Recently in Matilija Canyon, the narrow winding canyon at the "twin tunnels" known as Wheeler Gorge has become a sport climbing area. There are now more than twenty-five bolted routes, the difficulty ranging from 5.9 to 5.12+. The climbing is face moves on steep and slightly overhanging sandstone, conglomerate, and solid shale. The twisting canyon is a beautiful and unique place to spend the day. All of the climbing is within a three minute walk of the road.

Recommended Routes

As an introduction to Wheeler Gorge you cannot do better than Ezra, 5.9. This route offers a short romp up a buttress featuring shallow pockets and slippery rounded footholds. Technical footwork is a necessity. Just across the creek on the steep sandstone slabs, the well-bolted Exodus, 5.11a, and Blush, 5.11a, are must-dos. The black rock next to the bridge has the first climb to go in the area, Stu Boy, 5.9, with the tricky Danger Boy, 5.11b, and Velocity Boy, 5.11b, just to the right. These three climbs are good ones to get action photos of from the bridge.

During the heavy rains in January 1997, a big chunk of Monstrosity, 5.11+, collapsed. The initial pillar is now gone, leaving no climb for the first 30 feet. Currently the route cannot be lead, but can be toproped. While you are there, be sure to try bouldering the Trout Farm Traverse, 5.11c.

Topo

Route List

A. Monstrosity, 5.11+. Eleven bolts, three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Bolted & toproped by Reese Martin, 1995. Additional bolts & RPÕ by Steve Edwards & Arvin Gunta, 1996. The first 30 feet of this route collapsed in January of 1997.
B. Project, 5.11+/12b. Three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Right of Monstrosity. FTR: Reese Martin, 1995.
C. Unnamed Arete, 5.9 *. 70 feet. Finishes at anchors for D. Gould project.
D. Unnamed, 5.12b ***. Nine bolts, two cold shut anchor, 75 feet. FA: Gould & Tony Agulara, 1995. Wooden portaledge at base. Tricky clipping.
Aquaphobia--Boulder problems: Traverse above pools: L to R, 5.12; R to L, 5.10a. FA: Edwards, Gould, 1996.
E. Unnamed, 5.12a (5.10, A0). Four bolts, two cold shut anchor, 40 feet. FA: Edwards & Gunta, 1996. Boulder problem start.
F. Arvin's Rig, 5.10a Four bolts, one cold shut anchor, no hangers. FA: Edwards & Gunta, 1996.
G. Ezra, 5.9+**. Four bolts, two cold shut anchor, 45 feet.
FA: Gould & Agulara, 1994.
Boulder Problems Under Bridge. Pockets, 5.10/11+.
A-Frame Roof. Toprope by Gould. 5.9, slab above, 5.10. Project.
H. Exodus, 5.11a ***. Eight bolts to chain anchor, 80 feet.
FA: Gould & Agulara, 1995. Quality. Variation: 5.10b R, go straight up from fourth bolt.
I. Blush, 5.11a***. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 60 feet. FA: Gould & Agulara, 1995.
J. Slab to single leeper bolt. 5.9 R? FA: Unknown, 1980Õs?
K. Roadside Distraction, 5.12b/c. Project. Gould & Agulara.
L. Slacker Dihedral, 5.8. Solo. FA: Gould, 1995.
M. Unnamed, 5.11b *. Seven bolts, two cold shut anchor, 50 feet. FA: Arvin & Edwards, 1996.
N. Unnamed, 5.11a *. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 50 feet. FA: Arvin & Edwards, 1996.
O. Unnamed, 5.10. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 60 feet. FA: Louie Anderson, Fall 1996.
P. Unnamed, 5.10. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 60 feet. FA: Louie Anderson, Fall 1996.
Q. South of the Trout Farm, 5.9. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 45 feet. FA: Gould (solo), Gould & Agulara, 1996.
R. Trout Farm, 5.12+. Toprope, 45 feet. Right of South of the Trout Farm. FA: Gould & Agulara, 1996.
Trout Farm boulder traverse, 5.11c. Stay low. High variation: 5.10.
S. Scorpion Surprise, 5.9. Vertical pod. Single bolt anchor. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996. Scorpions!!
T. Fearless Hyena, 5.10a. Five bolts. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996.
U. Stu Boy, 5.9. Seven bolts to two bolt anchor. FA: Stu Ruckman, 1993. Variation: 5.11b; stay right of bolts through roof & face.
V. Danger Boy, 5.11a **. Seven bolts to two cold shuts. FA: Gould, Agulara & Brannon 1995.
W. Velocity Boy, 5.11b **. Seven bolts to two cold shuts. FA: Gould, Agulara & Brannon 1995.
X. The Chimney, 5.2. Unknown. Variation: 5.10 finish on last three bolts of Velocity Boy.
Directions

The climbing is right off the road, seven miles east of Ojai along Highway 33.

References

This information was first published in Issue #5 (March/April 1997) of mOthEr rOck magazine.

Copyright (c) 1996-1999 Reese Martin. All rights reserved. Questions? Comments? Send E-mail to rsm@reesemartin.com.