A half mile beyond the Sespe Wall is a group of rock slabs on the south side of the road. The eighty-foot-high blank wall at the far left is Potero John Wall. To the right and uphill a bit is a group of large triangular slabs, collectively known as The Fortress. There was some climbing done on the Fortress in the late 1960's and early 1980's. These slabs are essentially undeveloped. The Fortress offers excellent potential for new moderate pitches.

In 1995 Potero John Wall was retro-bolted with fat 3/8" bolts and additional anchors were added. This turned what had been a collection of runout 1/4" spinner horror-shows, into a friendly and fun place for the moderate climber. All five bolted routes are worthwhile. When you climb the insecure, tricky seam in the middle of the face, Menage a Trois, 5.10b, remember the route was first climbed in EBÕs and protected only by wired stoppers in 1976 by "Hot" Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard. The bolts appeared recently. After your day of climbing be sure to check out the numerous swimming holes nearby. There is a great barefoot boulder traverse over the big pool 200 yards upstream. Fall off and you're wet.

Topo

Route List

A. El Potrero, 5.9 R. 50 feet, no protection. This route is generally toproped.
B. Zyzzxx, 5.8. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 50 feet.
C. Pro Job, 5.9+. Three bolts, two cold shut anchor, 60 feet. Connects to Miccis at second bolt.
D. Micccis, 5.9 **. Four bolts, two cold shut anchor, 60 feet.
E. Menage a Trois, 5.10b ***. Four bolts, stoppers, two cold shut anchor, 80 feet. FA: Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard, 1976. Variation: start left of climb, connect at second bolt.
F. Rubber Man, 5.10+ **. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 70 feet.
G. Beginnings, 5.4. Gear, 40 feet.

Directions

The Sespe Wall is located 17 miles out of Ojai on Highway 33. A half mile beyond the Sespe Wall is a group of rock slabs on the south side of the road. The eighty-foot-high blank wall at the far left is Potero John Wall.

References

This information was first published in Issue #5 (March/April 1997) of mOthEr rOck magazine.

Copyright (c) 1996-1999 Reese Martin. All rights reserved. Questions? Comments? Send E-mail to rsm@reesemartin.com.