| Tradgirl |
New River
Gorge
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New
River Gorge in Style
by Dawn Alguard, 4/1/00 - 4/3/00 |
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DYNO [New River Gorge Index]
When Inez challenged me to climb
at the New River Gorge in formal wear, she didn't know she was dealing
with someone who has a closet full of evening clothes. This was a
challenge I could meet - the only question was which gown to wear.
I rejected Inez's suggestion of gold lame, pearls and a tiara and decided
on a dark blue velvet gown with a long slit up the front. The leg
loops on my harness won't detach, so putting a harness on over the gown
was out of the question, but I thought I could wear the harness under the
gown and run the rope up through the slit. A trial run proved this
to be impractical - the gown didn't fit right over the harness and the
belay loop sticking out and up in front made an obscene and completely
inappropriate bulge. Inez would have to settle for a picture of me
bouldering.
Steven and I made the long drive
down to the New, arriving after 1:00 am on Saturday morning, and set up
camp. We awoke to frost on the ground but blue skies above.
It turned out to be a warm day, for which I was very glad as I changed
into my formal wear in a nook somewhere along Endless Wall. Pictures
finished, I changed back into climbing clothes, rubbing off the lipstick
on my sleeve from a fear of looking ridiculous.
Sunday was drizzly so we headed to Kaymoor with John and Mike, friends of Steven's. I led Rico Suave, my first clean 5.10 sport lead and Steven got on Totally Tammy. Then we walked over to the White Wall where John started working on Almost Heaven (10b). Steven and I were left looking at a bunch of routes ranging from 5.11 to 5.13. My eye was drawn to Thunder Struck, a 5.12b that starts on a low-angle block for the first three bolts. With nothing else to do, I started up it. The ramp was as fun as it looked and then the climbing got harder (but not as hard as 5.12). I tried going straight up to the fourth bolt, then I tried going right, then I tried going left. Finally, feeling like I had to at least take one fall before I could give up on it I committed to the moves on the left and came off in a nice swinging fall that ended in a bump just above the ledge where the ramp meets the vertical wall. Luckily I had instinctively picked my feet up when I started to fall and the only damage was a bruise on my butt where I connected with the pointy edge of the ledge. I felt like I might be able to get
the move with a second try, but I thought John would run up and clip the
fourth bolt for us and I could try it on TR, so I came down. Steven
and I then turned our attention to Almost Heaven, which was hard and fun,
while John went up to the third bolt on Thunder Struck. When he got
there he declared that I was crazy to have taken that fall and came down
without even trying the move. I was disappointed not to have a second
chance at it, but then I figured that I had a 5.12 "project" to "work"
on my next trip. (Ha! but maybe someday . . .)
Monday played games with us, first drizzling, then clearing. We got in some bolt clipping at Summersville before the rain started again in earnest with me sticking to more reasonable 5.8s and Steven pushing himself on harder routes. Then, with a forecast calling for three inches of rain and possible snow overnight, we brought the trip to an early end and started the long drive home. I woke up Tuesday to eventually realize
that I hadn't changed any of my clocks, explaining why the drive home seemed
to take much less time than the drive there. Oops. All in all,
it was a pleasant trip with a lot of interesting highlights and some very
memorable pictures to prove it.
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