Paulina at the top of the Maria wall

They were waiting for me at the Bakery, these kind people. My ride, advertised as "another climber girl from MIT" turned out to be a bearded guy Sunil, who raised some eyebrows among the Gunksfest-ers as he made his appearance in shorts and sandals. Yes it's been a warm winter here...

So I get to see and meet all you good people, even though I won't remember some of your names, sorry.

It's a gorgeous perfectly sunny day, and we can actually see the Trapps as we drive up towards them, since the leaves aren't there to block the view. If you look up from the carriage road, you will see the lines of the routes just as they are in the guidebook - maybe we should get rid of those leaves in the summer too.

But just as we approach the Trapps, we hear that Colin has taken a fall and Alex gives his cellphone to Colin's mother, so she can call the rangers. Colin didn't seem to have anything broken (later confirmed), he is hurt but will recover, as Tom tells us.

So we continue to the area between Baby and Drunkards' Delight where top-ropes will be set up for the day. John quickly joins two pitches of Frog's Head 5.5 *** and sets up a top-belay on something right of it, for the three kids he has with him. This tall guy with glasses (Karl? Forgive me) belayed by this beautiful girl (Aya?) leads City Lights 5.7 * (tree is definitely on).

Paulina leading Frogs Head (5.5)

Much activity also to the right, but I don't see it anymore because I have now racked up for Frog's Head. With Sunil belaying me, I get up maybe 10 feet before my hands lose all sensation from the cold and I have to rest on a piece, and Dawn - who looked after us all day like a good mum - brings me a pair of hand-warmers. With these in the chalkbag things feel much better and I get up to the first crux, where it transpires that I'm way out of it, having done no trad leading for months. Come on, there's gotta be an excuse! :-) So I climb up and down many times before finally committing to a polished handhold and I'm over it. Of course, the 1.25 friend I placed under there I managed to overcam and couldn't get out, so I really want to clip the big nut, placed by John before me and stuck in there, right above the crux. So I do, and all of a sudden, I can't move up, and shouting "slack!" to poor Sunil doesn't help. Yes, I have done it! I have zigzag-clipped two pieces that were so close to each other. Did I mention that trad thing is a little beyond me today?

That little problem solved, I move up, hesitate some more at the second cruxy bit, but finally make it to the top of the flake and the bolt anchors meant for rappelling. After Sunil comes up, the second pitch seems much easier, but I still manage to create so much rope drag with my ridiculous placements and short slings that I have to downclimb a good chunk of the pitch to remove the offending piece. Finally over the mini-roof and on the GT ledge, after Sunil comes up, it has been 2 hours and 30 minutes since I left the ground. This is simply outrageous. Gunksfest is supposed to be a social event, and here I am, hogging a 5.5 for 2.5 hours on lead, instead of making friends and toproping down there. Bad, bad girl. Not to mention all the shrill cries of "slack!" and "up rope!" that were spoiling the atmosphere for all that time - it's sometimes really impossible to hear your partner at the Gunks with all those ledges and roofs in the way (ok, ok, I know I'm making excuses).

Mike on Maria Direct, Left Variation

With all that I still have to say that Frog's Head is a beautiful climb. And thank you very much to whoever it was who cleaned my overcammed friend, I really appreciate it.

Back on the ground, I belay Sunil on his repeated top rope attempts at Maria Direct, left variation, and then Mark (not from Quebec) on his try at Maria Redirect. Rappelling from Frog's Head, we left a rope on something, was that Kama Sutra? - and Todd and Scott, I think, are trying that problem. People climb on everything from Baby to Drunkards' Delight, and some have taken off to do High E even in the cold.

To close the day, Sunil topropes City Lights with a remarkable show of strength on the crux, which he does as a mantle. No tree there. I also get a go, and even pose for a tree-stemming picture that is supposed to settle the debate once and for all, what with me being a short person and all.

Paulina using the tree on City Lights (5.7)

<aside, hushed voice>
Don't listen to them, it's all a conspiracy I'm tellin' ya! You gotta believe me, I was there! That tree-stemming picture was staged. That tree is useless for short people, really.
</aside>

So we all leave towards 5pm while the sun starts to set and the temperatures drop considerably, and congregate again at the Bacchus for a good meal worthy of a good day out.

It was a pleasure to meet all of you guys and girls, and huge thanks to Dawn and Steven and Todd for organizing the event, especially for the handwarmers and the gorgeous weather, and Sunil for driving me and putting up with my whining on Frog's Head.

PS. Oh and, I claim two more awards for "Longest time on a 5.5 lead" and "The zigzag pro of the day". Gosh, I should get out more!