This year's GunksFest has been blessed with incredible weather and, as usual, hords of friendly fellow rec.climbers. I brought my brother Fred too, who would not want to miss it even if he never ever lurked on the group. My telling of last year's meeting has convinced him that it was worth it.

Marc getting racked up for Maria (5.6)

We took it easy and decided to drive the day before and sleep in the area instead of driving all night. We met the other participants at the Bakery and were soon on our way to still another great climbing day.

First thing when we arrive at the parking lot: Steven offers us some handwarmers. Hum... We won't need it Steven; it's warm today. But thanks for offering. Upon seeing his very incredulous look, we decided to be nice and take it, just in case. (Btw Steven, I later put it back with the others in the big box, and thanks again for the offer.)

Marc leading the Sundown start to Maria (5.6)

A few people convinced Fred and I to try Maria, a classic 3 pitches 5.6. It looks great, I'll give it a go! The first pitch goes up some easy put unprotected ground, and I was nice to put in a few pieces before starting the ~50 feet traverse. All goes well and I soon am at the belay. Fred soon follows, and we quickly dispatch the second pitch, an incredible one. It follows a long corner and is relatively steep, but there are always great holds. Stemming, jugs, and a few jams thrown here and there make it a great lead; the kind of climbing I like.

The last pitch is short and looks easy, so we decide to do it instead of rapping now. Up a corner and then there's the roof. Going out from under it is very awkward, as I'm a bit tall. I succeed, but I need to rest on my gear once before completely pulling the moves, because that thing is *hard*. 5.6 my ass.

My brother follows, but has difficulty to remove a stuck biner. (how can a biner be wedged in a 1 1/2 inch crack?) He then flails on the roof, resorts to pulling on gear while I try to haul him, and flails some more. All this time, John Peterson is sitting besides me and generously take pictures of both of us. The climb is finally over and John, who showed a great deal of patience, shows us the walk-off.

Chris on Baby (5.6)

Fred is tired and doesn't really want to climb more, so I convince Mark Heyman to go give a try to Baby. Our ascent of Maria has been so long that by now there are top-ropes hanging everywhere and we don't have to lead if we wanna climb. Mark quickly dispatches the thing in good style and it's now my turn. It goes well enough and I complete the route, but I'm sure I could have used much less jamming. But how can you justify grabbing an edge when there's a hand crack right besides?

I then go to City Lights in order to check what's about that damn tree thing. I was expecting a tree growing out of a crack, or on a ledge somewhere up high where it would be awkward not to touch it but no! The tree grows at the base, and is not even close to touching the rock. That tree is off!

But I agree that it can be used to pose for some pretty pictures, as Paulina showed us. (Paulina, when your film is processed, you *must* scan the picture and post it) In fact, I demonstrated that one don't even need to use the right hand jam to climb the crux. One just have to stretch a bit more and grab the good edge about a foot higher. And how could that be cheating? I didn't use off-route holds, in fact I didn't even used all available on-route holds! But somehow people watching me weren't convinced. ;)

Marc making the City Lights (5.7) crux look easy

Then off to Maria Direct. Earlier in the day, I watched Alex struggle for a long time at the first crux move. There are a few small edges for the hands and not much for the feet, and the the next holds are jugs, but wayyyy up there. I want to nominate Alex for the Most Persevering Climber Award. He tried and tried and tried and finally got it. Way to go!

So a bit later I tried it and Fred belayed me. Grab the small edges, put feet on the rock. Pull a bit, and stretch. Grab the jug. Fred tells me: "Gee, don't tell Alex it took you 10 seconds, he'll not find it fun." Up I go, but there's another hard move, and by now I'm pretty shot. I try to lounge for a small crack just besides the directionnal nut, grab something good, and pull up. "Damn, that was the nut I pulled onto, not the crack..."

Scott leading Drunkards (5.8)

A quick lap up Drunkards Delight shows me that even if a roof projects 4-5 foot out of a cliff, it still can be 5.6. That thing was amazing: you grab anything and it's sure to be a huge jug. Then a quick climb of Frog's Head, and off I go to pick up my mother and the meet everybody at Bacchus where we all learned that burgers is the food that takes the longest to cook. But that's not a problem; a grand time was had by everybody, and I sure will try to attend the meeting next year.