Road Trippin'

5.8 and under climbs for quick hits on road trips

West East South
Arizona New Hampshire Alabama
California New York Florida
Colorado North Carolina Georgia
Nevada West Virginia Kentucky
New Mexico Wisconsin Oklahoma
Oregon   Tennessee
South Dakota Ontario Texas
Utah    
Washington    
Wyoming    

West

StateLocationRouteComment
ArizonaBaboquivari PeakSE Arete 
 Cochise StrongholdWhat's My Line 
  Moby Dick 
  Wasteland 
 Mt. LemmonBlack Quacker 
  Rupley Routes at Windy Point w/ Bender Axen Start, Rappel Rock
  Slippery When Wet 
  Crab Corner 
  George's Buttress 
  Stripper 
 SuperstitionsGlory Road 
  The Long Lead 
  Weavers Needle 
  Razors Edge on The Hand 
 Granite MountainThe Classic 
  Green Savior 
  Cat's Pajamas 
  Hassayampa 
  Weeny Roast 
  Coke Bottlea Brutus special route
  Bleak Streak 
 SedonaNorth Face, Streaker Spire 
 Oak Creek Canyon Overlook most stuff 5.8 and under is pretty good
CaliforniaYosemiteNutcracker 
  Munginella 
  Bishop's Terrace 
  Royal Arches5.7-A1, or 5.9
  Snake Dikelong approach
 Tuolumne MeadowsWest Country 
  South Crack 
  Golfer's route 
  Holdless Horror 
  Hermaneutic Flake 
   hundreds of others
 Lovers LeapCorrugation Corner 
  Bear's Reach 
  East Crack 
  Haystack 
  April Fools 
 Tahquitz RockAngel's Fright 
  Traitor Horn 
 SuicideMickey Mantel 
  Flower of High Rank5.8, or 5.9?
 Joshua TreeStichter Quits 
  Double Cross 
  Dog Leg 
  Double Dog Leg 
  Lazy Daze 
  Nurn's Romp 
  Walk on the Wild Side 
  the Flue 
  Dappled Mare 
  Mental Physicslong approach
  Overhang Bypass 
  Sail Away 
   -- about 1000 routes, at least
 Pinnacles National MonumentMachete Ridgemany others
 Calaveras Dome AreaGemini Cracks 
 Castle CragsCosmic Wall 
 Charlotte DomeSouth Faceroad trip?
 Southern YosemiteFresno Dome 
   Don't forget the rest of the Palisades, Temple
   Crag, Whitney region w/Lone Pine Peak
   The Sierra's in general are an "old school
   moderate" climbers paradise,and no crowds!
   Not to mention all that class 4!
   Great stuff in Tuolomne as well.
   Also California: Courtright Reservoir (not a
   destination on its own if you're outside
   California, but might be combined with a
   Kings Canyon/Sequoia/ wider Sierras area trip)
ColoradoRMNP- Petit GreponSouth Face
 Hallet'sCulp Bossier 
 SharkstoothNE Ridge 
 Long's PeakKeiner's Route 
  Cables Route 
 NotchtopSpiral Routea 5.4 yawner
 Lumpy RidgeKor's Flake 
  Batman and Robin 
  White Whale 
  Left Book 
  Melvin's Wheel 
 SpearheadN. Ridge 
 Garden of the GodsNew Era 
  Montezuma's Tower,North Ridge 
  South Ridge of the White Spire 
  Silver Spoon 
  Cowboy Boot Crack 
 Turkey PerchGobble 
  Ragger Bagger 
  Honky Jam Ass Crack 
  Left Handed Jew(it's only 5.7, heh-heh, snicker)
 Boulder CanyonEmporcob Rock, 5.7+
  Bitty Buttress 5.8+ 5.8+
 Eldorado CanyonRuper 
  Wind Ridge 
  Bastille Crack 
  RedGarden Wall, the Bulge5.7s a classic, moderate hair raiser
  Redgarden Wall, Rewritten5.7 super classic
  Wind Tower- 
  Calypso 5.6 (better than Wind Ridge)
  Reggae 5.8 (better than Calypso)
 Boulder CanyonCastle Rock - 
  Cussin' Crack5.6
  Jackson's Wall5.6
  Cob Rock- 
  Empor 5.7+ classic, summer only
  Northwest Corner5.8
  Flatirons- 
  First Flatiron, Direct East Face5.6 (12 pitches)
  Third Flatiron, East Face(5.1-5.4) many choices, Closed February 1 to July 31
IdahoCity of RocksIntruding Dike Short crack
  Wheat Thin crack/layback
  Skyline 
  Too much funwell-bolted/overhanging 5.8. Great route!
  Rye Crisplayback on thin flake.A #4 Camalot is helpful
   more suggestions?
NevadaRed RocksFrogland 
  Olive Oil 
  Black Dagger 
  Ragged Edges 
   Frictiony Face Panty Waist2nd pullout?
   Red Rocks for long, steep clean
   solid-rock 5.6-5.8s.
   Good routes on Magic Bus and Panty Wall
New Mexico  Accepting Suggestions
OregonSmith RocksOut of harms way 
  Spiderman 
  Lions jaw 
  Super slab 
  Pioneer route on monkey face 
  Sky ridge 
  5 gallon buckets 
  The outsiders 
  Bunny face 
  Jete 
  Dance 
  Lichen It 
  Ginger Snap 
  Bookworm 
 Broughton's Bluff (Troutdale)The Sickle 
  Giants Staircase 
  Edges and Ledges 
  The Hammer 
 Rocky Butte (Portland)Flaky Old Mannot a road trip destination
  Urban Cowboy 
  Orient Express 
  Superman Crack 
UtahLittle Cottonwood CanyonVariety Delight 
  Huevos Rancheros 
  Bushwack Crack 
  Hand Jive 
 Maple Canyon  
 Moab area  
WashingtonForbidden PeakWest Ridge 
 Cascades and Olympicsmany peaks 
 Prussik PeakWest Ridge 
 The ToothSouth Face 
 Mt. TriumphNE Buttress 
 Snow Creek Wall Orbit 
 Castle RockCatapult 
  Canary 
  Midway 
 Beacon Rock (Columbia Gorge)Cruisinhighly recommended
  Southeast Corner 
  Free for All 
  Little Wing 
  Stardust 
WyomingDevil's TowerDurrance Route 
 TetonsSymmetry Spire 
  Guide's Wall 
  Grand Teton 
  North Face 
  North Ridge 
  Owen-Spaulding 
  East Ridge 
  Exum Direct 
  Underhill Ridge 
 Mt. MoranCMC route 
  Black Dike 
  Irene's Arete 
 VedauwooEdward's Crack5.7
  Kim 
  Walt's wall 
  Cold Fingers 
  Hole 
  Screw 
  Moore's Crossing 
  Hassler's Hatbox Route5.7
  Mother #15.7+
  Captain Nemo (1st pitch)(1st pitch) 5.8
 Wind RiversNotchtop 
  Hourglass Cracks 
  Pingora, NE face 
  Wolf's Head, East Ridge 
South DakotaRushmore moderate granite sport…suggestions?
 NeedlesClassic Crack 
  Hrum Hroom 
  Conn Diagonal 
  Conn Route (Aquarium) 
  Innercourse 
  Tent Peg 
  Tricouni Nail 
 Cathedral SpiresSpire1 
  Spire 2 
  Spire 4 
    

East

StateLocationRouteComment
New HampshireCannon CliffMoby Grape 
  Whitney-Gillman 
 RumneyMeadows 
  upper Vader 
  Junko 
 ConwayFunhouse 
  Bombarbment to upper Refuse 
  Pine Tree Eliminate 
  Black Lung 
  Statndard Route 
  Inferno 
  Sliding Board 
 Pinkham NotchWhite's Ledge 
New YorkShawangunksMadame G's 
  CCK 
  High E 
  Gelsa 
  Horseman 
 DacksDiagonal7 pitch 5.8
  Hesitation4-pitch 5.8
  Pegasusbest 5.7 in NY State
North CarolinaLooking Glass all 2 to 4 pitch routes on granite
  Gemini Crack 
  The Nose 
  Sundial Crack 
  Rats Ass 
  Second Coming 
 Moores WallRaise Hell 
  Zoo View possibly the best 5.7 anywhere?
  Golden Earring 
  Wailing Wall 
  Air Show 
West VirginiaSeneca Land of infinitely many great 5.7s,
   Better be solid at 5.8s of wherever
   you call home.
 New River Gorge Summersville Lake has many 5.8's
    
WisconsinDevil's LakeOrgasm5.8
  Brinton's Crack5.6
  Roger's Roof5.8
  Curving Crack5.8
  Queen's Throne5.4
   ~500 trad single pitches 5.8
    and under. Many are classic.
OntarioOntarioCamel 
 Nemo many others
    

South

StateLocationRouteComment
Alabama  Accepting suggestions
Florida  Accepting suggestions
Georgia  Accepting suggestions
KentuckyRed River GorgeRoadside Attraction 
  Bedtime for Bonzo 
   Many bolted routes.
   Several hundred trad 5.8 and under
   Watch for dirty ones.
Oklahoma  Accepting suggestions
Tennessee  Accepting suggestions
TexasEnchanted Rock (w. of Austin)Middle Crack classic crack to flake
  Owl's Crackright next door, classic hand crack, tape if you bleed
  RoboProkbolted face on crystally granite