Ratings vary in the area altho one rule of thumb is the more popular the area, the softer the ratings. The rock is solid, beeeeaaauuuutiful granite. I noted that ratings have inflated again in the latest guidebook so my ratings might be slightly off. A lot of the climbs can use two ropes to rap so either climb w/ doubles or bring an extra.

Quick overview of Squamish

Smoke Bluffs - lots of great (mostly) one pitch climbs, mostly trad, generally softer ratings, good place to start off. Quickest to dry after a rain.

Apron - part of the Chief; similar to Apron in the Valley. Lots of runout friction (5.9 to 10b has 3-4 bolts per pitch) while above that has well protected cruxes. Diedre is here but is mostly a crack climb. With sticky rubber, 5.9 friction is easier than 5.9 cracks.

The Chief - think a smaller version of El Cap. Lots of great climbs at the base, some long multi-pitch free climbs and lots of aid climbs. Amazing views.

There are lots of other places to go but these are the most popular.

My favorites (these are the climbs that I do over and over because they are so great):

Smoke Bluffs

Smoke Bluff Connection: four great crack pitches

 

Mosquito 5.8, Phlemis Dance 5.8, Jaberwocky 5.9 (10b boulder start), and Wonderland 5.9. short walk in the woods between P2 and P3. You can walk off between P2 and P3 or rap the route if needed.

The next three climbs are close to each other:

 

Clandestine Affair: fun 5.9

Quarry Man 5.8, fun fun fun. After you do it, you can top rope "Popeye and the Raven", a very fun 10c bolted climb that has lots of stemming.

farther to the right is... Penny Lane 5.9 (10a boulder start) - wonderful, great hand crack.

The next three are close to each other in the "Neat and Cool" area:

 

Flying Circus soft 10a - nice fingers

Neat and Cool soft 10a - always reminded me of the gunks

Cat Crack 5.6 - Meow. Easy and fun.

These are left of Neat and Cool:

 

Centre Street 10b do it as two pitches. two ropes are useful. The top short pitch is very thin.

Supervalue 10c. Do it with two ropes as it traverse way left then back and you'll die from rope drag.

Check the guide book as there are LOTS of great climbs. Beware of crowds. Lots of times I'll go by a climb 2 or 3 times until its free. Apparently the "permanent toprope" has become a problem recently in some areas.

Areas often overcrowded are Burgers and Fries, Neat and Cool, Penny Lane.

Apron

Diedre - 6-7 pitches 5.7 mostly a right facing corner. VERY popular so do it first thing or plan on climbing in a big crowd.

Sparrow - 5.9 nice combination of cracks and slab.

Dancing in the Light: 7? pitches 11b. Most pitches are 10a or so. The two 11b pitches have well protected cruxes (e.g 3 bolts in 15 feet). When you look at the Apron, the climb is the white slash down the middle like someone dumped over a bucket of paint - it's a great line. Mostly bolts but I do remember using some small stuff here and there.

A Question of Balance (get to this after you have climbed the apron to Broadway ledge) 5.8 friction

The Chief

Apron Strings 10b/c Fabulous. The crack gets smaller and smaller.

Merci Me - two pitches 5.8 above Apron Strings. follow a dike protected by bolts. Wonderful. Get to it by doing a 5.9 pitch from the top of Apron Strings.

Exasperator - two pitches, 5.9, 10c. great finger crack on the 10c. good pro. I think this can be done as one long pitch but I prefer it as two.

Cruel Shoes: 10d - 5 great pitches that take you to the base of The Grand Wall.

The Grand Wall: 11a I've only done up through the Split Pillar (10b - used to be 5.9). Its worth doing as much as you can. You might be able to aid through the crux of The Sword (10d) above that. The Split Pillar is worth all the effort to get to. You can get to it via Merci Me or Cruel Shoes.

Other fantastic routes

Klahane Crack 5.7 (Shannon Falls) perfect hand crack, easy to protect and rest.

Local Boys Do Good (Shannon Falls) p1 10a, p2 10d - friction climb next to Klahane Crack.The crux of p2 is right away so if you get past that, keep on going. I admit I whined alot on my lead but its solid.

Clean Crack 11b (Malamute)- Do another climb near this climb (Crescent Crack, Seaside Rendezvous are good choices) and then TR it. Fantastic. The Upper Malamute was developed a few years ago and supposedly has some great climbing.

World's Toughest Milkman 5.8 (Murrin Park) short and wild. Previous roof experience a plus.

Birds of Prey 10a - (The Squaw) 4 pitches and away from the crowds.