| Tradgirl |
Articles
|
||||||||||||||||||
|
October 2001 Trashcan Overhang - A Pictorialby Dawn Alguard |
DYNO [Article Index] [Gunks Index]
In which two people who can't climb Trashcan Overhang demonstrate how to climb Trashcan Overhang . . .
Start on the super-slick ramp, worry that you're going to fall off the approach because it's so slippery, then step up onto solid feet and away you go. That's the first aid box you can see in the background. There isn't actually a Trashcan there anymore and the first aid boxes should be safely out of any potential fall line.
Trashcan Overhang has been led, soloed, and bouldered. Today, Barry and I bravely toprope it.
Fall off here and you're going for a ride - just hope the ranger truck isn't driving by or there's going to be one strange accident report filed.
My left hand has hit the sweet spot. Ignore all the rest of the chalk on that arete. For me, the key to getting my left hand high enough to hit the target is getting my right hand far enough left on that undercling. Bouncing your right foot higher to gain height, reach for the next hold with your right hand (my right hand is just below it). This is really the start of the crux (for me, anyway). If you fall off here you can boink your way back on but you can't regain the knee bar.
The goal is to get your left hand onto that horn (or anywhere along the rail) I'm too weak to lock off so I do a right heel hook on a small edge just above my right hand before reaching up with my left but most guys skip that step.
Todd calls this a "rest". You should at least be able to shake out and chalk each hand. Your right hand is aiming for that small notch in the pointy arete, which is the last really hard move.
Yeah, there's one more roof to conquer but trust me, it's kiddie stuff in comparison and you can have a good, long, no-hands rest first. This move produced heinous bruises on the inside of my leg, all the way from my lower calf to my upper thigh. If you do the route in style you probably walk away unscathed, but I may never know. |
|||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||