{"id":472,"date":"2010-11-10T14:24:57","date_gmt":"2010-11-10T19:24:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/?p=472"},"modified":"2010-11-10T14:25:27","modified_gmt":"2010-11-10T19:25:27","slug":"accidents-in-north-american-mountaineering-anam-2010","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/2010\/11\/accidents-in-north-american-mountaineering-anam-2010.html","title":{"rendered":"Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM) 2010"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>As I say every year, I read <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/exec\/obidos\/ASIN\/1933056258\/tradgirl\" target=\"'new\">ANAM<\/a> every year, though with less and less interest as the years pass.  Eventually you feel like you&#8217;ve seen them all, although this year featured the most bizarre accident ever (a leader strangled by her gear sling when the trigger bar for a cam got caught on a horn&#8211;tragically implausible).  <\/p>\n<p>The theme this year was bad belaying.  There were more &#8220;lowered off the end of the rope&#8221; accidents than usual and a couple of uncommon &#8220;belayer didn&#8217;t catch the fall&#8221; accidents.  I&#8217;d almost gotten complacent enough to believe those didn&#8217;t happen.<\/p>\n<p>Being in the process of teaching a beginner to climb, I&#8217;m rethinking some of my techniques.  Monkey see, monkey do.  And when you see the monkey do what you have (apparently) been doing all these years, it leaves a different impression.  All excuses (I&#8217;m more experienced) and rationalizations (I haven&#8217;t dropped anyone yet) aside, I don&#8217;t ever want to reproach myself with having been less than the safest belayer possible if I&#8217;m ever involved in an accident.  So I&#8217;m reviewing my own belay technique with an eye towards setting an example worthy of emulating.  No more one-hand slide when taking in slack.  From now on, I grab and go.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As I say every year, I read ANAM every year, though with less and less interest as the years pass. Eventually you feel like you&#8217;ve seen them all, although this year featured the most bizarre accident ever (a leader strangled by her gear sling when the trigger bar for a cam got caught on a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16,6],"tags":[29],"class_list":["post-472","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-climbing","category-non-fiction","tag-anam"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/472","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=472"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/472\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":475,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/472\/revisions\/475"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=472"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=472"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/reading\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=472"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}