For some reason I didn’t start my season on Trapped Like a Rat this year. I didn’t even think about it until Todd mentioned the route as we were walking below it on the carriage road. I looked up and saw the ugly corner in its usual damp state and just said “oh” and kept walking. Instead I started on Something Interesting, which is better, easier, and longer. It felt pretty good. Later I led both pitches of Son of Easy O, a route that used to be reserved for good days, approached only after a lot of fearful soul searching.\u00a0 Sunday, I just stepped up and started.\u00a0 The opening moves didn’t even really feel hard or slick or scary.\u00a0 They were just moves. We had done two 10s immediately prior, so I’d have been forgiven for feeling pumped or tired, but I didn’t.<\/p>\n
I don’t do the traverse on the 2nd pitch of Son of Easy O often, generally preferring to do the route in a single straight-up pitch these days, and the traverse was sandy but still not hard. It seemed like a pain to get in gear–easier to keep moving on big holds–but when I got into the corner I realized I needed another piece for my second (who wasn’t Todd).\u00a0 I backed through the traverse and hung straight-armed as I tinkered around looking for the right piece, my gear-brain sluggish from months of inactivity.\u00a0 The first sling tied itself into a knot so Gordian upon being untripled that I gave up on that one altogether and started with a fresh one.\u00a0 It was a silly amount of hanging off my arms but I couldn’t hear the clock ticking.\u00a0 I had the thought, “I’m not smart, but I’m strong,” and wished Todd was in conversational distance so I could share it with him.\u00a0 It turned out later he wasn’t even paying attention, having wandered off to solo up and help people on Baby or some typical Todd move.\u00a0 Eventually I was able to move back into the corner and finish the pitch.<\/p>\n
I am strong now, no question.\u00a0 With strength comes confidence that I can handle obstacles, because I have reserves.\u00a0 I could have hung after placing, but there was no physical need and my head was cool and quiet.\u00a0 I was frustrated with my bungling but had no need to rush.\u00a0 It was a good start to the season and a beautiful day to be climbing.<\/p>\n
With Todd and Lisa:
\nSomething Interesting, 5.7 (Dawn)
\nStar Action, 5.10 (Todd)
\nGraveyard Shift, 5.10 (TR)
\nSon of Easy O, 5.8 (P1 & 2: Dawn)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
For some reason I didn’t start my season on Trapped Like a Rat this year. I didn’t even think about it until Todd mentioned the route as we were walking below it on the carriage road. I looked up and saw the ugly corner in its usual damp state and just said “oh” and kept… Read more »<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-304","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gunks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/304","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=304"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/304\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":312,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/304\/revisions\/312"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=304"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=304"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=304"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}