I’ve never been to Farley, which access has been opening up to thanks to the Western Massachusetts Climber’s Association. Todd, Romy, Miriam and I made a trip there this Sunday. Luckily Al, a friend of a friend who knows quite a bit about Farley, met us there. I don’t know the names of anything we did except a couple of the sport climbs.<\/p>\n
We started at Zen Garden and I led a supposed 5.8 gear route near the left end. Then Todd led a supposed 5.10 mixed route to the right of that (hard moves past a low bolt, easier trad section, crux bolt near top). Then I led a supposed 5.9 that went up a flake. That was a lot of fun. Then Todd led a supposed 5.10 mixed route on the right end. The second bolt was a spinner and Todd said the nut almost came off in his hand, so he was glad to get some gear in too. You can make that route harder or easier by using more or less of a huge chockstone in a gully to the right. I tried to be as pure as possible and it was extremely tenuous and technical that way.<\/p>\n
Lastly, Todd and I walked over to the Main Wall (which I’ve also seen described as the Amphitheatre) which is above where the new parking lot will go. We did a couple of 5.10 sport routes there that were excellent–sustained and clean. Stinger was particularly memorable as you feel like you’re going to die for every inch of the first two bolts (or if you had a stick bolt you could stickclip the second bolt and bump the fear factor down to zero).<\/p>\n
I don’t know if I’d go back to Farley for the trad which was a little dirty, a little short, and only a half hour closer than the Gunks, but it’s certainly the closest sport climbing around. <\/p>\n
Trad 5.8 (Dawn)
Mixed 5.10 (Todd)
Trad 5.9 (Dawn)
Mixed 5.10 (Todd)
Stinger 5.10c\/d
Lady Buggary 5.10a<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
I’ve never been to Farley, which access has been opening up to thanks to the Western Massachusetts Climber’s Association. Todd, Romy, Miriam and I made a trip there this Sunday. Luckily Al, a friend of a friend who knows quite a bit about Farley, met us there. I don’t know the names of anything we… Read more »<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[39],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-229","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-farley-ledge-ma"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/229","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=229"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/229\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=229"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=229"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=229"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}