I was climbing with a new partner, Cathy, and she said she liked to use doubles. Now, I’ve never been one for doubles. I never keep them straight when leading and I feel like I’m fumbling all the time while belaying. But we’re always more polite with strangers than friends so I said sure, bring your doubles.<\/p>\n
On Saturday we did a bunch of stuff at the start of the Trapps and the doubles were sweet for rapping. We rapped things I’d normally have walked off because it was so easy to do with two ropes. However, Cathy doesn’t use her doubles as doubles. She uses them as twins. I tried to do a little double technique on Son of Easy O Direct by using one strand up to the roof and the other strand above the roof but when I looked back down over the pitch from the top I could see that I’d managed to twist them somewhere around the second piece. I must have pulled one strand through the other. After that I gave up and clipped them both together except on one pitch where I accidentally only clipped one of them on one piece which meant I had to use double technique for the rest of the pitch.<\/p>\n
Anyway, considering we weren’t using double technique and considering that you can always get down with one rope somehow, we agreed to use my single on Sunday. On Sunday we went way down to the Bonnie’s area where having two ropes is hugely helpful. So we did more walking, more rappels, and some ungainly rappels (Double Crack). In other words, we should have brought the second rope the second day.<\/p>\n
The highlights of the weekend for me were the second pitch of MF which I got clean this time (once you know you just have to go for the bucket, you just go) and the first pitch of Carbs and Caffeine which I’d followed once and found hard. Thin moves above thin gear. I guess I had my lead head on this weekend because it didn’t feel hard or thin and I had great gear the whole way up.<\/p>\n
Saturday
Son of Easy O Direct, 5.8 (Dawn)
City Lights, 5.7 (P1: Cathy)
Jean, 5.9 (Dawn)
Strictly from Nowhere, 5.7 (P1: Cathy, P2: Dawn)
MF, 5.9 (P1 & 2: Dawn)<\/p>\n
Sunday
Airy Aria, 5.8 (P1: Cathy, P2 & 3: Dawn)
Groovy, 5.8 (Cathy)
Space Invaders, 5.10 (TR)
Carbs & Caffeine P1, 5.9 (Dawn)
Double Crack, 5.8 (Cathy)
Directissima Direct, 5.9 (P1: Dawn, P2: Cathy)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
I was climbing with a new partner, Cathy, and she said she liked to use doubles. Now, I’ve never been one for doubles. I never keep them straight when leading and I feel like I’m fumbling all the time while belaying. But we’re always more polite with strangers than friends so I said sure, bring… Read more »<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-201","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gunks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/201","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=201"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/201\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=201"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=201"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=201"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}