{"id":108,"date":"2001-10-01T15:23:00","date_gmt":"2001-10-01T15:23:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing2\/?p=108"},"modified":"2001-10-01T15:23:00","modified_gmt":"2001-10-01T15:23:00","slug":"trashcan-overhang-pictorial","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/2001\/10\/trashcan-overhang-pictorial.html","title":{"rendered":"Trashcan Overhang – A Pictorial"},"content":{"rendered":"

In which two people who can’t climb Trashcan Overhang demonstrate how to climb Trashcan Overhang . . .<\/i><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
<\/td>\nBarry walks us through the opening moves. <\/p>\n

Start on the super-slick ramp, worry that you’re going to fall off the approach because it’s so slippery, then step up onto solid feet and away you go.<\/p>\n

That’s the first aid box you can see in the background. There isn’t actually a Trashcan there anymore and the first aid boxes should be safely out of any potential fall line.<\/p>\n

Trashcan Overhang has been led, soloed, and bouldered. Today, Barry and I bravely toprope it.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/td>\nSome of these moves are a little long for shorter folks but they’re basically just a prelude to the good stuff.<\/p>\n

Fall off here and you’re going for a ride – just hope the ranger truck isn’t driving by or there’s going to be one strange accident report filed.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/td>\nBarry is starting into the meat of the route now but his left hand is too low, so he’s screwed.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/td>\nSince Barry never got much higher while I was taking photos, we continue with me. (I’ve flailed on this route before.) <\/p>\n

My left hand has hit the sweet spot. Ignore all the rest of the chalk on that arete.<\/p>\n

For me, the key to getting my left hand high enough to hit the target is getting my right hand far enough left on that undercling. <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/td>\nSmear your feet up the face (don’t bother looking for holds) until you can get the knee bar over your head. The knee bar probably doesn’t work very well if you’re either too short or too tall. I’m a little short as you can see by the fact that I have to be on my toes, but it’s good enough.<\/p>\n

Bouncing your right foot higher to gain height, reach for the next hold with your right hand (my right hand is just below it).<\/p>\n

This is really the start of the crux (for me, anyway). If you fall off here you can boink your way back on but you can’t regain the knee bar.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/td>\nAfter getting the right hand, you have to cut your feet loose and re-establish them to your right. I’ve only managed to do this once without falling.<\/p>\n

The goal is to get your left hand onto that horn (or anywhere along the rail)<\/p>\n

I’m too weak to lock off so I do a right heel hook on a small edge just above my right hand before reaching up with my left but most guys skip that step.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/td>\nWith both hands on the rail, heel hook your left foot. No, I mean really<\/i> heel hook it, like heel hook your whole stinking leg.<\/p>\n

Todd calls this a “rest”. You should at least be able to shake out and chalk each hand. <\/p>\n

Your right hand is aiming for that small notch in the pointy arete, which is the last really hard move.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/td>\nRoll up onto your left leg until you can get your hands in the small horizontal. Once your right foot is over the roof (as seen here), it’s all over.<\/p>\n

Yeah, there’s one more roof to conquer but trust me, it’s kiddie stuff in comparison and you can have a good, long, no-hands rest first.<\/p>\n

This move produced heinous bruises on the inside of my leg, all the way from my lower calf to my upper thigh.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/td>\nThis is the bruise\/contusion the knee bar move made, but I did make three attempts at the route that day.
If you do the route in style you probably walk away unscathed, but I may never know.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table>\n

Trashcan Overhang, 5.11- (aka Hudson Boulder Problem), the Gunks, New York. I took the pictures of Barry and he took the pictures of me.<\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In which two people who can’t climb Trashcan Overhang demonstrate how to climb Trashcan Overhang . . . Barry walks us through the opening moves. Start on the super-slick ramp, worry that you’re going to fall off the approach because it’s so slippery, then step up onto solid feet and away you go. That’s the… Read more »<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[27,9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-108","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-articles","category-gunks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/108","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=108"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/108\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=108"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=108"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dawnalguard.com\/climbing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=108"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}