OK, this is it. It’s time for me to take over the leading duties in deference to Todd’s finger injury. One way and another, through toproping at smaller crags, climbing with other people, and muddy days at the Gunks, I’ve managed to mostly avoid it. But today it’s just me and him and a beautiful… Read more »
Posts By: Dawn
Peter in the Mist
It’s that sort of day. Between ourselves, Todd and I have agreed not to even bother driving up to the Gunks on days like this. We know what we’ll find. It used to surprise me, then frustrate me. Now it’s simply accepted: on foggy days there will be an extra band of mist that trails… Read more »
Visiting Virginia
The Google search I did before leaving for DC wasn’t very encouraging. When someone says “by almost any criteria imaginable, Great Falls sucks” it doesn’t leave much room for hope. But the advice to drive the extra three hours from DC to Seneca isn’t for me. Tanya and I might be able to sneak away… Read more »
Totally Trad
“Will you climb for Dawn?” the gym manager asks Lisa. I graduated from belay class last week and have to take my mandatory re-test before I’m set free to belay at will. “Sure,” Lisa says. She climbs slowly, giving me time to go through the elaborate ritual of pinching and sliding. She pauses. She falls…. Read more »
Low points
I haven’t led anything since we got back from Squamish. It’s time to lead something now. I’ve always wanted to lead Outer Space (5.8-) at the Nears. I don’t know why exactly. Maybe it’s because no one, not even Steven, seems to know exactly where the route goes. “Easier than it looks,” the guide book… Read more »
Sleepy Hollow
On a muggy but clear day we make the steamy tromp through the minor Gunks jungle to Wegetables (5.10) which Todd has in mind to lead. Supposedly, the crux is the poorly protected section near the ground and the intimidating roofs at the top are 5.8. Not. After spending a lot of time fiddling in… Read more »
Death by Granite
There’s a limit to how many times you can eat dinner in a day – let’s say two – and a limit to how many hours of sleep you can usefully get in one night – let’s say twelve. This still leaves 10 hours of daylight to climb in during July at Squamish. It’s maddening… Read more »
Maria, Indirect
I’ve never climbed the third pitch of Maria (5.6). In fact, I didn’t even know Maria had a third pitch. I led the second pitch once and finished at what seemed like the top. We walked off at any rate and if that’s not the definition of “top” I don’t know what is. But a… Read more »
Welcome to the Gunks
I’m sitting on a belay ledge halfway up Travels with Charlie (5.8-R), contemplating the nature of climbing R-rated routes. Somewhere above me Todd is contemplating the R-rated route itself but it’s not him I’m worried about. What he’s doing, he’s at least doing intentionally. I’m worried about the guy to my right, the one leading… Read more »
Not-so-Trad Girl: A Confession
So the question is: would rapping Epinephrine really be a betrayal of the name Tradgirl and everything it stands for? There are people who think so, but I’m not one of them. I only wish I hadn’t asked if it was possible in the first place. Now I feel like the whole world is waiting… Read more »