We wander away from the Seasons to check out a 5.11G that Todd has imagined is down there somewhere and run into a fascinating looking short corner/crack capped by a small roof crowned by a long, steep vertical crack. What’s this? Todd checks the book. This is Blistered Toe (5.8G) and I’m standing under the… Read more »
Posts By: Dawn
The beginning of the end of the beginning
Am I going to lead Pink Laurel? Sometimes I think I spend most of my time at the Gunks beneath some route or other wondering if I’m going to lead it. The problem with the Gunks is that every route has a story, a whole collection of associations, that goes along with it. The first… Read more »
Trashcan Overhang
Among other things, we played around on Trashcan Overhang (5.11-, aka Hudson Boulder Problem, V1). Check out the pictorial.
Bouldering at Ice Pond
We go bouldering at Ice Pond and find a nice big boulder that is pleasantly vertical with flat landings, unlike most of the stuff there. The boulder is chalked, so we’re not the first ones to find it but we have no idea what any of the problems are – just pick a likely looking… Read more »
The Big Slide
Hensley speaks in black. Dawn speaks in red. Mike speaks in blue. Hensley makes it all sound so simple. Mike had mentioned that he and Dawn were planning to head to the ‘Daks Mike said earlier in the week that Leemouse from Gunks.com might join us but I didn’t get a real name until the last email…. Read more »
Silhouette Direct
So we set out to do Limelight because it has a reputation for being somewhat hard and scary for 5.7 and I need to face my demons, in that I should be able to lead 5.7 even if it is hard and scary, but Limelight is booked solid and so I end up on a… Read more »
Trashcan Overhang – A Pictorial
In which two people who can’t climb Trashcan Overhang demonstrate how to climb Trashcan Overhang . . . Barry walks us through the opening moves. Start on the super-slick ramp, worry that you’re going to fall off the approach because it’s so slippery, then step up onto solid feet and away you go. That’s the… Read more »
Two-Sided Face of Fear
Rumney “We’ll do hard stuff,” I promise. “I’ll lead it myself.” I’m trying to talk Todd into a trip to Rumney with the Connecticut gym folks. He didn’t like Rumney the last time we went for several reasons, one of which was that the group gravitated towards walls with easy routes. To make matters worse,… Read more »
Nemesis, be gone!
Tequila Mockingbird/Dry Martini: This is the third time I’ve been on one or the other or both of these routes and I don’t think I’ve ever actually been on either one of them. The intertwining lines with shared belays are too indistinct. Even Steven didn’t get it right. Todd leads the first pitch of one,… Read more »
Mostly bouldering
On Monday, feeling a new confidence, I easily agree to leading Eyesore, a 5.6 with a typical so-NOT-5.6 start that I’ve led before. The route starts from the top of a sloping block with the crux being to leave the block. It takes a while for me to get in two pieces that both Todd… Read more »