“Well, it was 5.9 minus,” I qualify. “5.9- is easier than 5.8+.” This isn’t just a one-liner. It’s the honest truth as I’ve lived it today. We started with Triangle because I was looking to try leading some 5.9s that I hadn’t ever been on before and Triangle was 5.9- G, which seemed like the… Read more »
Posts By: Dawn
Never Again
I literally hate this route. It brings nothing but failure and disappointment to all who climb it. And what’s worse is that it’s getting worse. Let me tell you about my enemy: Criss Cross Direct. It all started because of a friendly wager as to whether or not Steven could lead a 5.10 cleanly before… Read more »
MF and Calisthenics
It’s a nice day and the three of us, Todd, Andrei, and I, are walking along trying to decide what to do. Andrei doesn’t want to do anything pumpy, which doesn’t exactly explain what happens next, except that it’s sort of my day to choose and what I want to do is lead MF. MF… Read more »
Good save
Today something wonderful happened, something scary and mysterious but, in the end, wonderful. It was one of those days when no one seemed to have a plan, so after Todd led Columbia, not for any reason in particular, we happened to walk past Hyjek’s Horror (8- PG) and Steven suggested it for me. The problem… Read more »
All Overhanging, All the time
“All overhanging, all the time,” I insist to Lisa, my gym partner. “Really?” she asks doubtfully. My aversion to overhanging routes isn’t exactly a well-kept secret. “I’m going to Cayman Brac,” I tell her. “Steep. When you lower, your belayer has to pull you in fifteen feet to the belay so you don’t fall into… Read more »
Ant’s Line, Take Two
For my second attempt at leading Ant’s Line (5.9), I did have a certain strategy as follows: Climb easily up to the crux, place two pieces, downclimb to the rest, pull the crux, and finish quickly on the easy ground above. It’s always good to have a plan. Step one. Climb easily up to the… Read more »
When Helmets Collide
I wouldn’t have chosen the Nears today, a day that’s only barely gorgeous for February. The Nears get more wind and less sun than the Trapps, but today is Todd’s day to choose, so here we are. There are an awful lot of scary-hard 7s and 8s in the Nears. Maybe we ought to walk… Read more »
Bouldering at the Gunks
It’s such a beautiful day for February that it would be a beautiful day for April. There’s no reason why we can’t climb anything we want today, even multi-pitch, but for some reason I have my heart set on bouldering. Perhaps it’s just stress-avoidance, to not have to lead for the day, but I like… Read more »
Practicing
I really didn’t want to be here, stuck like every other newbie 5.6 leader at the beginning of the wide stuff on Baby. Todd said I should go back to the car for the #4, but I was too cool. After all, I’ve led Baby before, which I don’t even remember it was so easy…. Read more »
Smooth Sailing Away
Sail Away “Are you guys going to do Sail Away or Wild Wind?” we shout down from the top of Hidden Tower where Todd has just led Wild Wind (5.9). They say it doesn’t matter to them and I say that we’d love to get on Sail Away, which is only partly true. Sail Away… Read more »