On a muggy but clear day we make the steamy tromp through the minor Gunks jungle to Wegetables (5.10) which Todd has in mind to lead. Supposedly, the crux is the poorly protected section near the ground and the intimidating roofs at the top are 5.8. Not.
After spending a lot of time fiddling in a couple of questionable pieces, Todd commits to the opening moves and finds them not too bad. I’m relieved that he’s through the worst of it and settle in for some casual belaying.
Shortly after he pulls the first roof sounds of distress start filtering down to me. He throws in a piece below the second roof with lightening speed. I expect him to clip it and move along to what must surely be a good stance above the second roof but suddenly he’s downclimbing.
“Pumpy,” he says. He climbs back up to the piece, clips it, and says “take” almost simultaneously. More climbing and taking finally get him over all three roofs (or was it four?) and to the top.
“I thought that was supposed to be 5.8,” he mutters as he lowers back down.
I climb like a mad-woman, figuring that to move fast is my only hope. I’m yanking gear out, not even bothering to rack it, trying to find a rest under any of the roofs and not finding one. Half way over the last roof my arms give out.
Damn. Perhaps any single one of these roofs, with a nice rest before and after, is 5.8 but we Gunks folk just aren’t used to such sustained climbing. Todd gets it clean on TR and is already scheming about another attempt on lead, but even on a second try, knowing where the jugs are, I can’t pull that last roof without a rest. It’s a nice route but not to be snickered at at 5.10.
Next we TR Tennish Anyone next to it, also pumpy at 5.10 while I chew over the idea of leading a nearby 5.8. The route starts off a block with a step across into a corner. I stand on the block and consider the starting holds across the chasm. I look down at the ground, miles below me, so much to hit. Scary. Should I or shouldn’t I?
It starts raining while we’re working on Tennish Anyone. Where did this rain come from? The clouds are moving fast overhead, must have come in while we were concentrating. We’re protected under the Wegetables roof but the crux of the 5.8 is exposed to the elements. No leading for me today. Oh well.
I watch Todd step across to the corner and back again like it’s nothing. Saved from the prospect of actually leading the route, I too make the step across and find it no more challenging than stepping over a puddle on solid ground. My fear is blowing everything out of proportion lately. With great courage I even mimic Todd’s casual hop back over onto the block. Nothing to see here. Just don’t look down.
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