Kind of a low productivity weekend thanks to crowds at Cannon and rain at Cathedral. We made the mistake of walking up to Moby Grape with only one rope. When we learned that we were about the 8th party in line we also realized that we’d screwed ourselves. It’s hard to get down from Cannon with only one rope and it looked like we weren’t going to be hitting the top that day.

So we ended up doing the first pitch to Moby Grape twice: once the old-fashioned way and once by Reppy’s. That original first pitch is something for 5.8. It’s a little scary because you’re laybacking and not carrying enough big gear to sew it up and it’s long. I kept looking up and thinking I was almost at the end of the layback section only to discover that the next section was also a layback section. I had to nearly solo the top 40 feet (I did sling a twig) because I was so completely out of gear in any useable size. It was a crazy lead.

Reppy’s, which Steven led, was just as miserable as I remembered it or even more so. I’m still not in any hurry to lead that one. On the other hand, the walk up and down weren’t half as bad as I remembered them. I guess all that running has had some effect.

On Sunday we started the day at the North End where I led two sustained 5.9 finger cracks: They Died Laughing and Bird’s Nest. Both beautiful routes but steep. The feet on Bird’s Nest are deadly polished. I took a fall onto a finger lock when I slipped off one, but it held. I couldn’t feel that finger for the rest of the day but I was glad it held since there was only piece between me and the ground at that point and I wasn’t even all that close to it.

Threatening rain made us decide to TR the 5.10d next to Bird’s Nest, though I’d considered taking a stab at it since it’s a low, short, well-protected crux. Well, good thing I wasn’t leading it since neither of us could do it. Steven had to pull me through just so we could get our TR anchor back. Mountain Project says there’s tricky useful beta. Wish I’d found me some of that.

We took a rain/lunch break and then walked up to Bombardment. Scary first pitch, beautiful second pitch. The 10 minute walk to the top went on for at least 20 minutes, followed by the seemingly eternal walk down. Between that and the Cannon talus slope, my quads were killing me by the end of the weekend.

Saturday at Cannon
Moby Grape P1, 5.8 (Dawn)
Reppy’s Crack, 5.8 (Steven)

Sunday at Cathedral
Kiddy Crack, 5.7 (Dawn)
They Died Laughing, 5.9 (Dawn)
Bird’s Nest, 5.9 (Dawn)
Recluse, 10d (TR)
Bombardment, 5.8 (P1: Dawn, P2: Steven)