Paulina wrote:

where does one go on Memorial Day weekend? If one wishes to avoid the crowds that is… Clearly not Cathedral Ledge.

I went to Cathedral Ledge.

First we climbed – very slowly – two pitches of a route that all the locals kept pointing us to but which was, surprisingly, free. This should have been a tip off. I spent most of the route afraid for my life and ultimately skipped “the mantel” which is the whole point of the route (and didn’t even have the courtesy to run the rope so Steven could try it).

Then we sat on the Upper Refuse ledge for about 2 hours waiting for the approximately 20 people arrayed above us to leave. (It never happened.)

Then we did P1 of Book of Solemnity, which possibly made the whole trip worthwhile for me, and were lucky enough to catch a ride to the ground (through a nest of red ants who apparently also wanted a ride to the ground) on someone else’s double ropes.

Three pitches car to car: approximately 7 hours.

What wasn’t helping the crowds is that the other side of the Kanc was soaking. Rumney was nearly unclimbable Saturday (only the bolts made it climbable) and we didn’t even go near Cannon although that was the original plan. I wasn’t going to do that approach only to see yet another waterfall cascading down my route of choice.

Saturday at Rumney:
Bolt and Run, 5.9
Terrace, 5.8
Romancing the Stone, 10c
Junco, 5.8
Nuthatch, 5.7 (Steven)
Things As They Are Now, 12a
Mutiny, 10b
Keel-Ho, 10a

Sunday at Cannon:
Three Birches, 5.8+ (P1 & 2: Dawn)
Book of Solemnity, 10a (P1: Dawn)