Sunday I was in pre-trip mode, meaning I didn’t want to get hurt. Although in this case the trip was actually a race.  I told Todd the goal for the day was not to get hurt and he pointed out that that should be the goal for every day, so I revised it a little to say that my goal was to not sprain an ankle.  I’ve never been seriously hurt climbing, but I’ve done a few things that would have prevented me from running a marathon a week later.  So with the goal of not spraining an ankle in mind, I led two routes where you don’t get in gear until the crux is over.  Genius.

First though I led Lower Eaves.  There are no sprained ankles threatening on Lower Eaves, and no heel hooks either, not in my shoes.  I think the reason I have such lousy heel hooking technique is that I’ve always favored shoes with roomy heels.  I eventually figured out a non-heel hooking way through the crux and the rest of the route is a pleasant jaunt.  Later I led Drunkard’s Delight and the first pitch of Birdie Party, the two potential ankle breakers, but I’m happy to report that no ankles were broken and all systems are go for next Monday.  Once the race is done, it’s time to put my Tradgirl hat squarely back on and get ready for Devil’s Tower.

Eyesore, 5.6 (Dawn)
Nosedive, 5.10 (Todd)
Lower Eaves, 5.9+ (Dawn)
Jean, 5.9 (Todd)
Drunkard’s Delight, .5.8- (P1/2: Dawn)
Mother’s Day Party, 5.10 (Todd)
Birdie Party P1, 5.8 (Dawn)