I led a 5.8 at the far end of the Nears named, dramatically, “5.8 G” in the Swain book (Outsider according to Williams). Todd led Mac Reppy (5.11) clean, clean, clean. His first 5.11 onsight on gear. We also screwed around on the two Voids (Void Where Prohibited and Void Where Inhibited, both 5.11). I won’t bore you with the details. Let’s just say that I eventually pulled through two of three. Which one couldn’t I do? The one the guide book describes as “the easiest looking 5.11 in the Gunks.” (Sorry, can’t remember which route is which. It’s the left of the two Voids).

The route has an excellent horizontal crack (totally bomber gear, dude) below a tiny little roof, above which is a seriously low-angle corner. How hard can it be? Heh, heh, heh. Go find out for yourself. And bring along a 5.8 leader to sandbag.