Archive for May, 2010

A short diversion

Romy and I took a little side trip to Rumney on lovely Spring day. I’ll be heading out shortly for Devil’s Tower so a day of easy bolt clipping was a nice diversion.
Egg McMeadows, 10a
Holderness Arete, 10b
Med Dose Madness, 10b
Bonehead Roof, 10c
Hippos on Parade, 8+
Lies & Propaganda, 5.9
Milktoast, 10d
The Terrace, 5.8

May 19, 2010   Posted in: Rumney  No Comments

Coasting

I took advantage of being with someone who is easy to please yesterday by doing a little coasting – no hard, scary lead for me.  Mike got his in to start the day and then I put up a couple of familiar 9s he wanted to do.  Having no agenda makes me relaxed and unattached [...]

May 11, 2010   Posted in: Gunks  No Comments

A quiet wait in the woods

I’d always heard the Gunks are deserted on a weekday, but I guess I’ve been so much a part of the crowd-that-wasn’t-there that I’ve never seen it for myself.  Mark, Mike and I had the Seasons area–normally a circus of dogs, babies and spectators–to ourselves all day.  It wasn’t a productive day, an efficient day, [...]

May 6, 2010   Posted in: Gunks  No Comments

Fear doesn’t equal danger; Danger doesn’t equal fear

Far from onsighting new routes with a strange partner, today I’m trying to lead my nemesis Cris Cross Direct with my two oldest partners.  Steven and Todd and I have a lot of history and so do Cris Cross Direct and I.  Let me start by saying that I know of no route called Cris [...]

May 4, 2010   Posted in: Gunks  No Comments

Sometimes the universe has other plans

Sometimes the universe has other plans and usually it’s best to go along with them.  I asked a friend to climb Friday.  It was supposed to be a beautiful day and I wasn’t working.  He said yes and then mentioned another friend who had asked the same thing.  So now there were three of us [...]

May 3, 2010   Posted in: Gunks, Millbrook  No Comments